Upper coolant hose fill or bleeder addition on D1

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,489
375
Are you thinking about doing this on a Disco 1 with the petrol V8? I just let the air out of the plug on top of the radiator. I personally would avoid any extra possible points of failure.
Was considering it for my 300tdi and my V8 I am putting together. I have read the 300tdi in a D1 is quite prone to air pockets that cause overheating you never know about until the damage is done.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
416
48
Ohio
That’s interesting as I have wanted a 300tdi since getting my 96 D1 5 speed.
Even on the V8 it’s a bugger to make sure air pockets are not in the coolant. I thought this product would be a good item for the truck.
 
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terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,489
375
I like the 300tdi but you have to accept its lack of HP in exchange for fuel economy. With diesel coming down to almost the same as gas here in the Midwest, 22-23 mpg really helps the trade off. Paid $1.87 a gallon last night.

I drive my 300tdi mostly on mountain highways which expose its lack of HP. I have been considering going with a 1.4 transfer case as it will almost never see an interstate highway again.

TDIs have quickly fallen out of favor in the Defender crowd. It’s a good time to pick one up on the cheap from someone pulling it for an LS or Cummins swap.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,021
Northern Illinois
Was considering it for my 300tdi and my V8 I am putting together. I have read the 300tdi in a D1 is quite prone to air pockets that cause overheating you never know about until the damage is done.
If it's prone to air pockets I would always fill it with an air lift. I wouldn't fill a 5.0 any other way.
Ask someone who knows that engine before you use an air lift. If you use one on a BMW Range Rover it pulls the vally pan seal into the block. They have a ridge that will support the seal with pressure on the system, but they never figured for a vacuum in the cooling system.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,021
Northern Illinois
I like the 300tdi but you have to accept its lack of HP in exchange for fuel economy. With diesel coming down to almost the same as gas here in the Midwest, 22-23 mpg really helps the trade off. Paid $1.87 a gallon last night.

I drive my 300tdi mostly on mountain highways which expose its lack of HP. I have been considering going with a 1.4 transfer case as it will almost never see an interstate highway again.

TDIs have quickly fallen out of favor in the Defender crowd. It’s a good time to pick one up on the cheap from someone pulling it for an LS or Cummins swap.

I know some people know the diesels because they lived in different markets where it's all diesel. Did you just learn them here by doing a couple conversions? I need to figure them out because I think it's the perfect fix for a CUX Disco. Sometimes you can find a really clean old Disco but it's Pre GEMS engine management. But that's a deal breaker for me. I won't drive a disco with a distributor, and I won't drive one without swivel balls either.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
416
48
Ohio
You Good People have voiced some excellent points.
My truck is 95% city / highway usage. I enjoy the control and motion of having a manual transmission. There seems to be no competition is the V8 vs Diesel in terms of better fuel mileage. For my needs I would swap the power for the mileage.
 
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terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,489
375
My D1 was the first diesel I owned. From age 15 to 40, aside from daily drivers, I only owned small British and Italian cars. The only exception was a Toyota FJ60 that I still kick myself for selling 20 years ago.

Then marriage and child came along and the 2 seaters had to take a back seat... pun intended.

I really liked the look of the Defender but couldn’t bring myself to spend Defender money on a glorified tractor. I learned a D1 where it matters is essentially a Defender. And, unlike the Defender, it has some safety features and is a lot more comfortable to drive. I’m not hating on Defenders, I’d still like to have one.

I also wanted something less electronic than a modern vehicle that could sit idle for months and live at our cabin in the woods, so we could have 2 vehicles on our infrequent visits. Diesel is much more stable that way. You can also run the 300TDI and it’s mechanical injection pump with nothing more than 12 a volt power supply to the injection pump and starter. When I leave the cabin with months, sometimes 6 months between visits, I just disconnect the battery cable. When I get back, I reconnect it, and the simple diesel cranks over a couple times and fires right up.

I also really wanted a manual transmission.

D1s were cheap and I wanted an interesting new project. Found a rust free one with a bad engine on craigslist in AZ, and the project began. It was a learning project. Most of my knowledge of the conversion came from another forum focused on Defenders.

I later bought a Santana (Defender / Series clone). It has an NA diesel that makes the 300tdi seem powerful. I have a 200TDI set aside for it as a someday project. That NA diesel is good for nothing (well not that bad really) more than crawling around in the woods. It’s an unstoppable beast at 10mph.

If you don’t drive on the interstate much and live in a fairly flat area, a 300tdi with 5 speed is a pretty simple swap that will serve you well. Adequate power around town and will do 70 no problem on flat interstate. However, even slight long grade increases and you struggle to keep it at 65. You can spend some money to improve performance, however.

I later bought a GMC Canyon diesel for regular use which has plenty of power but I doubt would buy another modern diesel. The emissions requirements make them overly complicated and prone to problems.

I spent too much on the 300tdi conversion because I did it when they were all the rage. Now, they are yesterday’s news. I recently bought an R380 gearbox to pair with the 200TDI set aside for the Santana for $600 that had only 5000 miles on it since it was installed in a Defender as part of a 300tdi conversion. The seller pulled both to put an LS and automatic in.

If you have always wanted to do a 300tdi conversion, now is a great time. One thing to note is the Defender gearbox won’t work in a D1 without modification. If you already have a 5 speed D1, you can combine the Defender R380 with the D1 V8 R380 but it requires swapping / combining bellhousing, shifter parts, and input shaft in a combination dependent on which one is your “base” so to speak. If you are not comfortable with doing that, getting a D1 300tdi gearbox isn’t horrible expensive. Maybe your R380 is tired by now anyway.

Being the hoarder I am, I have a spare low mileage V8 R380 set aside and picked up a 300tdi type input shaft and associated parts to do another conversion someday. All of it acquired pretty cheap because I wasn’t in a hurry.

Also, starting with a 5 speed D1 makes a lot of sense as the D1 5 speed interior parts and pedals are very hard to come by when not attached to the whole vehicle. It’s well worth spending the extra dollars to start with one already a 5 speed.
 
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Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
416
48
Ohio
Thanks for taking the time to share some history, much appreciated!
I am new to diesels so this would be a steep learning curve. I owned an automatic D2 which I worked on, had too many bells and whistles. What I realized I wanted was a manual D1. I have been the only one working on since taking ownership in 2016. Two years into it I realized what I really wanted was the 5 speed diesel version that shows its face in North America less than the unicorn or bigfoot. And ol the price for such a truck was on the low double digits! Ummm...how that grabs at your wallet.

If and when that day comes I would probably need to find a rust free D1 to go along with that diesel setup. My truck spent years on the East coast and has more rust than I would like to speak of.

I never got to measuring the upper radiator hose, you think it may be a 1.5" measurement?
 
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terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,489
375
“I never got to measuring the upper radiator hose, you think it may be a 1.5" measurement?”

I will measure and post.
 

patdohere

Active member
Sep 30, 2020
34
5
San Diego, CA
My D1 was the first diesel I owned. From age 15 to 40, aside from daily drivers, I only owned small British and Italian cars. The only exception was a Toyota FJ60 that I still kick myself for selling 20 years ago.

Then marriage and child came along and the 2 seaters had to take a back seat... pun intended.

I really liked the look of the Defender but couldn’t bring myself to spend Defender money on a glorified tractor. I learned a D1 where it matters is essentially a Defender. And, unlike the Defender, it has some safety features and is a lot more comfortable to drive. I’m not hating on Defenders, I’d still like to have one.

I also wanted something less electronic than a modern vehicle that could sit idle for months and live at our cabin in the woods, so we could have 2 vehicles on our infrequent visits. Diesel is much more stable that way. You can also run the 300TDI and it’s mechanical injection pump with nothing more than 12 a volt power supply to the injection pump and starter. When I leave the cabin with months, sometimes 6 months between visits, I just disconnect the battery cable. When I get back, I reconnect it, and the simple diesel cranks over a couple times and fires right up.

I also really wanted a manual transmission.

D1s were cheap and I wanted an interesting new project. Found a rust free one with a bad engine on craigslist in AZ, and the project began. It was a learning project. Most of my knowledge of the conversion came from another forum focused on Defenders.

I later bought a Santana (Defender / Series clone). It has an NA diesel that makes the 300tdi seem powerful. I have a 200TDI set aside for it as a someday project. That NA diesel is good for nothing (well not that bad really) more than crawling around in the woods. It’s an unstoppable beast at 10mph.

If you don’t drive on the interstate much and live in a fairly flat area, a 300tdi with 5 speed is a pretty simple swap that will serve you well. Adequate power around town and will do 70 no problem on flat interstate. However, even slight long grade increases and you struggle to keep it at 65. You can spend some money to improve performance, however.

I later bought a GMC Canyon diesel for regular use which has plenty of power but I doubt would buy another modern diesel. The emissions requirements make them overly complicated and prone to problems.

I spent too much on the 300tdi conversion because I did it when they were all the rage. Now, they are yesterday’s news. I recently bought an R380 gearbox to pair with the 200TDI set aside for the Santana for $600 that had only 5000 miles on it since it was installed in a Defender as part of a 300tdi conversion. The seller pulled both to put an LS and automatic in.

If you have always wanted to do a 300tdi conversion, now is a great time. One thing to note is the Defender gearbox won’t work in a D1 without modification. If you already have a 5 speed D1, you can combine the Defender R380 with the D1 V8 R380 but it requires swapping / combining bellhousing, shifter parts, and input shaft in a combination dependent on which one is your “base” so to speak. If you are not comfortable with doing that, getting a D1 300tdi gearbox isn’t horrible expensive. Maybe your R380 is tired by now anyway.

Being the hoarder I am, I have a spare low mileage V8 R380 set aside and picked up a 300tdi type input shaft and associated parts to do another conversion someday. All of it acquired pretty cheap because I wasn’t in a hurry.

Also, starting with a 5 speed D1 makes a lot of sense as the D1 5 speed interior parts and pedals are very hard to come by when not attached to the whole vehicle. It’s well worth spending the extra dollars to start with one already a 5 speed.

How much did you spend on your conversion and did you install it yourself or use a shop. Because I have a blown head gasket and looking at rebuilding the V8 or getting the 300 TDI swap with R380. Which quoted $15k for it done.
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,212
462
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
How much did you spend on your conversion and did you install it yourself or use a shop. Because I have a blown head gasket and looking at rebuilding the V8 or getting the 300 TDI swap with R380. Which quoted $15k for it done.
Good lord. Why spend $15k on a diesel conversion? With that money there are many options.
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,489
375
How much did you spend on your conversion and did you install it yourself or use a shop. Because I have a blown head gasket and looking at rebuilding the V8 or getting the 300 TDI swap with R380. Which quoted $15k for it done.
Did it myself. All in I believe I spent just under $10,000 but that includes some things I didn’t really need like ss exhaust and a bunch of other stuff like an uprated intercooler. I also did new or rebuilt for everything. The injection pump and new injectors were about $1000 alone. If you can catch someone swapping out for an LS conversion you can save a lot. I will spend less than $4000 all in on the next one because I have picked up parts here and there as “deals” came along. And I will be starting with a 5 speed. I had to pay a premium for a pedal assembly and some other specific 5 speed odds and ends. 5 speed shifter consoles are just about unobtanium and people selling them know it. $100 here, $150 there really adds up after a while.

including the cost of the D1 itself, HD front and rear bumpers, D90 brakes, 2 inch lift, 5 new mud terrain tires, various suspension upgrades, and a partial repaint, I’m probably all in around $16,000 and the D1 itself was only $1800. That is a lot for an old D1 and I couldn’t begin to sell it for that much. The interior was very nice and it is totally rust free. A buddy did the paint labor for me. Paint supplies were $600. If I had to pay for my labor as well, it goes from crazy to insane.

A thorough rebuild of a 4.0 or 4.6 ain’t cheap. If cost was no concern I would do a Cummins repower.
 
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patdohere

Active member
Sep 30, 2020
34
5
San Diego, CA
Yeah I’m asking because I got my disco for $3k not much rust just some on the body near the alpine seals. But believe the head gasket is blown. Seeing radiator fluid leak from the gasket. Wondering if I should replace the head gasket or look at a full rebuild because I plan to do a year long trip living in the disco. How much would a Cummins swap run with a 6 speed?