What's wrong with my RTE lift?

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Is there any way to calculate how much lift I will have with the new OME springs before installing? Trying to decide whether to put spacers in on the first try.

Spring length: 16.5"
Spring rate: 360 lbs/in
Estimated cargo weight: 550 pounds

D2's weigh 4,600 pounds stock, how much of that weight is supported by the rear springs? If I knew that number, let's estimate it at 1,200 pounds, then:

1200+550= 1,750
1,750/360= 4.8" in
16.5-4.8 = 11.7" spring height (doesn't sound right)

My RTE springs are 17.25" uncompressed (new), and they measure at 13" installed (post sagging).
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
And they refuse to work with you on replacements? 4?+ of sag for even the most worn spring is absurd

They didn't sag 4". A spring is going to compress a bit once installed. Unfortunately I don't have the compressed spring measurement post install, but based on my other measurements, it was around 15", so that means they sagged 2" within a month or two.
 

p m

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Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Is there any way to calculate how much lift I will have with the new OME springs before installing? Trying to decide whether to put spacers in on the first try.

Spring length: 16.5"
Spring rate: 360 lbs/in
Estimated cargo weight: 550 pounds

D2's weigh 4,600 pounds stock, how much of that weight is supported by the rear springs? If I knew that number, let's estimate it at 1,200 pounds, then:

1200+550= 1,750
1,750/360= 4.8" in
16.5-4.8 = 11.7" spring height (doesn't sound right)

My RTE springs are 17.25" uncompressed (new), and they measure at 13" installed (post sagging).

Jeff, you are overthinking this.

Install your OME springs, measure up the lift, if you don't like the stance, take a short trip to Industrial Metal Supply and get 4" diameter Aluminum pucks (they have anywhere between 1/4" and 1"). It is a little annoying to have to do it again, but it is pretty easy to lift the springs off the seats. Use a couple of ratchet straps or a couple of shots of chain on compressed springs, unbolt the lower retainer, and drop the axle.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Yep, good point, I'll do that. Its just a real pain the butt to lift the frame for me, but I picked up some new jacking goodies to hopefully make it easier... and another stack of plywood blocks.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Rear springs and shocks are in! Net result: a gain of 3" over the RTE's

I made a judgement call and put the 2" spacers in, boy was that job a pain in the ass. Had to use spring compressors to shrink them down about 3", and thats with the body and axle fully separated with a jack. Floor jack, 2x 6 ton jack stands, a dozen wood boards, 1 jack for each side of the axle, and 1 jack between axle and body.

Setup (rear)
OME 763 springs
Terrafirma 4 stage adjustable +3" (went with these as they were super cheap, and the longest shock available)
D1 spring seats
Top spring isolators
Lower Spring retainers
Terrafirma 2" spacers

And the result... 23" from wheel hub to fender on both sides. That's a gain of 3", for a total lift of 3.5" (I believe stock measurement is 19.5") . Not including the spacers, that's a gain of an inch over the RTE's, despite the RTE's being 3/4" longer.

Observations
- OME's look MUCH less beefier than the RTE's. Smaller coil diameter, shorter, and fewer coils.
- OME's are less than half the price
- The RTE springs uncompressed length did not change from new. I think the RTE springs simply aren't designed or made as well to handle heavier loads.

We will see how the measurements look again in a few weeks. Now to fix the oil leak at the rear diff flange.
 
Last edited:

Agent

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2007
669
3
WV
I‘ve been out of the Rover loop for a while, but it?s too bad to hear that RTE has gone to shit. My RTE springs I put on about 8 years ago are still going strong.
 

Mongo

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
5,731
2
59
Rear springs and shocks are in! Net result: a gain of 3" over the RTE's

I made a judgement call and put the 2" spacers in, boy was that job a pain in the ass. Had to use spring compressors to shrink them down about 3", and thats with the body and axle fully separated with a jack. Floor jack, 2x 6 ton jack stands, a dozen wood boards, 1 jack for each side of the axle, and 1 jack between axle and body.

Setup (rear)
OME 763 springs
Terrafirma 4 stage adjustable +3" (went with these as they were super cheap, and the longest shock available)
D1 spring seats
Top spring isolators
Lower Spring retainers
Terrafirma 2" spacers

And the result... 23" from wheel hub to fender on both sides. That's a gain of 3", for a total lift of 3.5" (I believe stock measurement is 19.5") . Not including the spacers, that's a gain of an inch over the RTE's, despite the RTE's being 3/4" longer.

Observations
- OME's look MUCH less beefier than the RTE's. Smaller coil diameter, shorter, and fewer coils.
- OME's are less than half the price
- The RTE springs uncompressed length did not change from new. I think the RTE springs simply aren't designed or made as well to handle heavier loads.

We will see how the measurements look again in a few weeks. Now to fix the oil leak at the rear diff flange.
This statement will come back to haunt you very quickly...

Do the shocks actually fit, you run the risk of topping or bottoming them out

Why spring spacers?

Did you extended your bumpstops?

Believe ot or not, a SPRING lift does not increase articulation, just gives you more body clearance. On a D2, you can run 285's on a stock suspension. Lifting the truck with a SPRING lift, pulls tthe axles toward the center of the truck, actually reducing clearance for the tires in the wheel wells. The watts linkage in the rear is the biggest limiting factor, add in the the radius arms bushing and all you have is a tall truck with shitty on-road performace and the exact same off-road capbilities before the lift...


just some comments...
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Thanks for the comments. I'll be honest, I do not know much about suspensions.

The whole goal of this project was to even out the ride, the problem being the front 2-3" taller than the rear, the rear being too bouncy, and skidding on my front and rear cross member. To that effect, I've accomplished it, so far, with OME 763's and 2" spring spacers. I fitted the spacers because the OME spring specs said about 50mm lift, which wasn't enough, and I can't find any other longer spring on the market for D2. I also had a ton of dings from trail runs on my front (now deleted) and rear cross members.. so I wanted to be lifted up a bit higher without getting new tires (for now).

As for shock length and bump stops, I have no idea. Since I have 3.5" of lift, the Terrafirma +3" (as opposed to my current +2" shocks) made sense to me without having to modify the truck. How do I determine what bump stop I need?

For the watts, a panhard conversion is in the works for the near future.
For the rear radius arms, I haven't seen any aftermarket options that work better with a lift?
My +2" brake lines may need to get replaced for longer ones, and I think I should extend the ABS lines as well
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
This whole thread is making by brain hurt! :banghead:

- Who cut your truck for the fender flares? Any chance they cut more in the front than in the rear and therefore your initial measurements are out of whack?
- What are your measurements now?
- You should have kept your RTE rear springs and taken Simon up on the free spring spacers since you installed them anyway!
- You complain about the back end being too bouncy, but you installed springs with a heavier spring rate which will mean a harsher(bouncier) ride.

....23" Front L
22" Front R
20" Rear L
20" Rear R

I spoke to Simon @ RTE today and because I'm calling him a few months after the sag was noticed, he's unwilling to send me a new set of springs. We got into a lengthy discussion... he says never once have his springs ever sagged since he bought the company 4 years ago. I understand his point of view, but the fact is, the springs have sagged and despite pressing... he won't budge on sending new springs. He is offering to send me free rear spacers or new springs at cost.....

....OME 763 springs arrive today. Specs are:

Free height: 16.54" passenger, 16.14" driver
Spring rate: 360 lbs/in

Compared to RTE:
Free height: 17.25"
Spring rate: 330 lbs/in.....

Thanks for the comments. I'll be honest, I do not know much about suspensions.

The whole goal of this project was to even out the ride, the problem being the front 2-3" taller than the rear, the rear being too bouncy, and skidding on my front and rear cross member. To that effect, I've accomplished it, so far, with OME 763's and 2" spring spacers. I fitted the spacers because the OME spring specs said about 50mm lift, which wasn't enough, and I can't find any other longer spring on the market for D2. I also had a ton of dings from trail runs on my front (now deleted) and rear cross members.. so I wanted to be lifted up a bit higher without getting new tires (for now).

As for shock length and bump stops, I have no idea. Since I have 3.5" of lift, the Terrafirma +3" (as opposed to my current +2" shocks) made sense to me without having to modify the truck. How do I determine what bump stop I need?

For the watts, a panhard conversion is in the works for the near future.
For the rear radius arms, I haven't seen any aftermarket options that work better with a lift?
My +2" brake lines may need to get replaced for longer ones, and I think I should extend the ABS lines as well
 

Mongo

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
5,731
2
59
This whole thread is making by brain hurt! :banghead:

- Who cut your truck for the fender flares? Any chance they cut more in the front than in the rear and therefore your initial measurements are out of whack?
- What are your measurements now?
- You should have kept your RTE rear springs and taken Simon up on the free spring spacers since you installed them anyway!
- You complain about the back end being too bouncy, but you installed springs with a heavier spring rate which will mean a harsher(bouncier) ride.

Yeah...I?m with a on that...
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
What's your deal man? I think I'm making the right moves to fix my suspension, if you can say what, specifically, otherwise, then please let me know.

Car was stock when I bought it, I've done all the work myself, and I haven't cut the wheel arches.

Measurements are 22 3/4" on both sides now. Previous measurements were 20", so not including spacers, I gained 3/4" with the OME's, despite the RTE's being 3/4" longer.

I asked Simon for the 1.5" spacers 10 days ago, but have yet to receive any shipping details. I did some rough measurements in the meantime, and decided 2" was better (turned out right). I didn't care to contact Simon again so I bought spacers.

The ride is much better now. RTE's were progressive coils (330/375 lbs), whereas the OME's are constant load (360 lbs), so they are better for my setup. Losing 2" on the RTE's within 6 weeks of installing was just crazy so I decided to do something about it. Simon wouldn't make it right, so I bit the bullet and won't deal with RTE ever again. Previously I had to take road dips very slow (rear would bottom out), now I can hit them at normal speed. Yet to take it off-road as I need to finish the spare tire carrier.
 

Mongo

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
5,731
2
59
Do you even understand the diffrence between progressive and linear springs. No spring can be a true linear spring because the force applied is not a constant...

I dont think anyone is making longer radius or trailing arms, just castor correct fronts and some stupid expensive arms that let you use a orbtial joint at the frame instead of the bushing.

I dont understand why guys with a 3" lift need to trim the doors (D2), unless your running a 36" or bigger tire. If your hitting the wheelwells with a 33", you've got soemthing else going on.