Window lift ECU?

[terryjm1]

I purchased my 98 Disco not running and with no info available from a previous owner. The passenger side rear window switch was gone when I received it. I installed a switch and it has no effect. The switch in the center console has no effect as well. All three other windows operate perfectly.

I took the door panel off and could tell someone had been in there previously as the plastic sheeting had been cut. I am thinking perhaps the lift motor is bad. Do they typically just stop working?

If the window lift ECU failed could it prevent only one window from operating? I always thought failure meant both rears would stop working.

Also, I found a 96 Disco in a local self service yard but that window motor had already been removed. Will one of the other doors’ motors work in that location.

 

[German Gruner]

You can check if your motor still works. You can connect 12volts for short time in its connectors terminals to check if it works. Inverting cables you may open/ close wižndow.
Window ecu can fail from only one side.

Regards

 

[Knightspirit]

Did you resolve this? I am having that exact issue with my passenger side rear window. I checked it using the a 12 volt battery up and down and it works fine. Replaced the console switch - no effect. The door switch doesn't move it either. I do on occasion get it to go down using the console switch - but then I can't get it to go back up - which points to the motor - but it works fine with a direct connection to a battery. For now I am just leaving it closed.

 

[Tugela]

Have you checked the window circuit board inside the glove box? This is a common point of failure. There's an illustrated write-up detailing an easy fix on the Tech section of the old Dweb site. I did this about six years ago and it's still going strong (D1).

 

[terryjm1]

This project got delayed as the problem became infrequent. I will indeed check that when I circle back. Thank you.

 

[Knightspirit]

Have you checked the window circuit board inside the glove box? This is a common point of failure. There's an illustrated write-up detailing an easy fix on the Tech section of the old Dweb site. I did this about six years ago and it's still going strong (D1).

Perfect - I will check that out - thanks!

 

[discostew]

If it’s just your pass rear window I would switch the window switches first. Then after swapping the window switches from side to side if the problem doesn’t move to the other side pull the door panel and check your circuit right at the window motor.
These guys are correct about a common internal failure in the window lift ecu, but in my experience it’s caused loss of both rear windows.

 

[WaltNYC]

Click here to see which solder joints typically go bad on the window ECU circuit board.....

So what did you do to your Disco today? - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Discovery I - So what did you do to your Disco today? - We have a post like this on the Porsche forum that is fun to read and add to on a daily basis. I searched and didn't see anything on the Disco 1 side so I figured give it a shot and see if people contribute. I'll start. Put in a new...

landroverforums.com

 

[LRDONE]

Power ^^

Ground ^^

 

[Jagfixer]

I have seen the ecu resoldered and AB sold a bypass, which i used.

 

[CBiDrive]

I have had 3 D1's and all had this problem. When I pulled the PCB (printed circuit board) in the glovebox, the bad solder connection was very obvious. Re-soldered it and never had the problem again. Well, until regulator teeth stripped, then I had to weld on new teeth.

There are plenty of write-ups on this issue.

 

[luckyjoe]

If you have a bum window switch, you can change it out with one of your known good switches. If the problem follows the switch you have found your cause. ECU solder joints can also cause this, and be intermittent. See following links (dweb).

D1/95-RRC Window Lift ECU Repair

And for additional D1 info

Fixing Non-Functional Rear Windows

 

[Knightspirit]

I took out the circuit board behind the glove box - and that was my problem.

CAUTION: if you go this route - be very careful pulling the plugs and getting the board out. I had a hell of a time getting the small plug free. Finally got it out of there and made the repair - simple. Unfortunately - I thought before I would put it all back in - I would plug in the plugs while it was out and test it - and it worked perfectly. However - now I was in the position of having to get those damn plugs free again so that I could get the board back into the slot. After struggling for 10 minutes on that small plug agin - I finally got it free, put the board back and -crap!- now it doesn't work. So - had to struggle another ten minutes getting that plug free again - and once removed I could see that the struggle had separated the plug assembly from the board and damaged all of the soldered joints on that plug.

I have now re-soldered everything, epoxied the plug back onto the board - and am ready to put it all back again! Yikes - hope it works. What a great feeling to see those windows going up and down!

I just discovered this also (covered in other threads) https://www.roverparts.com/Instructions/AMR1282RK_WindowLiftRepairKit.cfm

I would recommend this over pulling the board. Mine got fucked - now the front windows don't work either. Hoping to get a used board and try again.