Window Regulator issue - Not the plastic wheels

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
Front Drivers Side window was working just fine until yesterday. Put it down (auto) and when it got to the bottom it kept on going instead of stopping like usual. Heard a bunch of clunking/grinding before i stopped it by pushing the window up side of the switch. After that all you could hear was the motor spinning when you pressed the switch for either up or down.

So after watching a few how to vids, I went out and pulled off the door panel, then the regulator assy. Expected to find chunks of plastic wheels - but a 3 are just fine.

Notice that the metal gear on the regulator it self was past the motor teeth - onto the flat no teeth section. So i pulled the motor off - with screws that were barely hand tight, greased up the wheel slots, straightened up a part of the frame that looked tweaked.

Greased it all up - put the motor back on, put it back into the door, and gave it a try.

Same thing. Goes down and keeps going off the regulator teeth and gets stuck.

Watched a couple more vids and noticed the plastic thing on the frame that attaches the window to the unit. Mine was pointing up (behind the window) as it shows in AB's video @ 9:42 - and that is how they put it back together in the door.

Then i watched a vid from Rimmer Bros - They show the same plastic piece facing down @ 1:40


WTF?

Is this plastic supposed to be what stops the window from going past the gear teeth, by hitting the bottom of the door? I did flip mine to facing down, like in the Rimmer Bros vid, but it just folds when the window hits bottom unless you hold it to help it. Or is there supposed to be friction at the end of the gears? Mine has a bit of friction, but apparently not enough anymore.

This is the plastic "Guide":
Also called a Regulator Clip:

I did find a hole in the gear to put a bolt through that stopped the window about 2-3 inches from the bottom to work as a temp fix. window sits about 2-3 above door when open/down.

Does anyone know how this set-up is supposed to work? Nothing in the RAVE manual that i found either.
Thanks
 
D1 and D2 scissors don't have bumpstops. Window ECU are supervising current amount, and if it goes over a fixed value, then it stops voltage source. This plastic part is only to prevent contact between glas and scissor mechanism. I'm not sure 100% but i think in both videos this part is mounted in the same shape.
As there is no bumpstop, if your regulator was bended i'm afraid you must change it. This is very difficult to repair because when it should stop and get more current, a bended scissor is "elastic" and don't produce a current peak enough to allow ECU to cut.

Regards
 
  • Like
Reactions: discostew

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
D1 and D2 scissors don't have bumpstops. Window ECU are supervising current amount, and if it goes over a fixed value, then it stops voltage source. This plastic part is only to prevent contact between glas and scissor mechanism. I'm not sure 100% but i think in both videos this part is mounted in the same shape.
As there is no bumpstop, if your regulator was bended i'm afraid you must change it. This is very difficult to repair because when it should stop and get more current, a bended scissor is "elastic" and don't produce a current peak enough to allow ECU to cut.

Regards

The Plastic piece never get between the glass and the scissor mech - it actually mounts on the backside (door skin) of the bottom rail - and after looking at more pics, it seems that it is supposed to point up. - so its not any sort of stop for the bottom.

The ECU is supposed to read the resistance/current when it reaches the top or bottom. Top is simple - it hits the top frame and stops.
But there is nothing on the bottom to create the resistance/current.