Yet another Subwoofer Question

[RVR OVR]

So, my son wants bass so loud his head explodes so he bought the following used of a guy:

Sundown SA12 subwoofer in a custom enclosure
https://sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/sa-series

Sundown SAZ-1000D amplifier
https://www.woofersetc.com/p-9255-saz-1000d-sundown-audio-1000w-1-channel-monoblock-amplifier.html

It came with some random cable and such that was in the guys other car.

I have no idea how to hook this thing up. I would like to do it to the stock radio if possible. Anyone have experience with this? Anyone near Chicago who wants to make a couple bucks installing it?

I was hoping I could just tap into the feed going into the rear subs, wire some power, and be done. Looks like a bit more involved than that! The power cables that came with this thing are the thickness of fricking hot dogs - i don't even see how they would connect to the amp they are so thick. I am concerned that I will even have enough juice to power it from the stock alternator and battery.

 

[K-rover]

You need line level inputs on the amp. I dont know if it has that option. I would get a new modern radio with rca outs. That will give you the best sound, and will be easier to connect everything. It really isnt that difficult of a job. Lots of tutorials on YouTube

 

[RVR OVR]

I would like to keep the head unit if possible as I really don't like the look of aftermarket stereos in the Discovery.

 

[fishEH]

I would like to keep the head unit if possible as I really don't like the look of aftermarket stereos in the Discovery.

That and how else would you play your Van Halen cassettes?

 

[salvvia]

It can be done with factory unit look for a wiring diagram and a harness to bare wire connector from crutchfield problem comes with running signal through factory wiring and amp is that there is sound intrrference. A New head unit and all new wiring will make your set up better other wise looks like your boy has got what he needs rock it out
Head unit model all up for debate somebody chime in on that

 

[bradartigue]

If you really want to preserve the original unit then either extend the left or right rear door wiring or, of course, the subwoofer wiring if it exists. You'll need to create a connector or cut wires to hook into the positive and negative of one side of an RCA cable. I can't read all of your inputs there but you should only have one real input (it saying "MONO BLOCK" I would assume it means what it says). Should be very easy to do.

 

[K-rover]

Get a line level pre amp converter and use the wires for the factory sub as your inputs.

 

[JUKE179r]

That and how else would you play your Van Halen 8-track tape?

Fixed that for you. lol

 

[WaltNYC]

If this is for your 1995 in which the stock stereo wiring should be the same as my 1997, here you go.

Sub woofer amp wiring - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Discovery I - Sub woofer amp wiring - So the old subs on my 1997 were old and breaking apart. I bought a more powerful amplifier which I will place in the pouch of the rear door and have ordered new speakers that will match the power & impedance specs of the amp. There are six wires that enter...

landroverforums.com

I will say that running a dedicated power line from the fusebox with 12 gauge wire (at least) is probably a good idea. You'll fry your wiring otherwise with that big amp.

 

[K-rover]

If this is for your 1995 in which the stock stereo wiring should be the same as my 1997, here you go.

Sub woofer amp wiring - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Discovery I - Sub woofer amp wiring - So the old subs on my 1997 were old and breaking apart. I bought a more powerful amplifier which I will place in the pouch of the rear door and have ordered new speakers that will match the power & impedance specs of the amp. There are six wires that enter...

landroverforums.com

I will say that running a dedicated power line from the fusebox with 12 gauge wire (at least) is probably a good idea. You'll fry your wiring otherwise with that big amp.

That Amp needs a minimum of 8 gauge. Preferably 4 gauge. It needs to come directly from the battery with an inline fuse close to the battery. And a good ground close to the amp.
Some amps have a line level input built in for using the speaker wires as the signal from the radio to the amp. If not you have to convert the signal from the factory speakers to RCA for the amp to get its signal.

 

[WaltNYC]

That Amp needs a minimum of 8 gauge. Preferably 4 gauge. It needs to come directly from the battery with an inline fuse close to the battery. And a good ground close to the amp.
Some amps have a line level input built in for using the speaker wires as the signal from the radio to the amp. If not you have to convert the signal from the factory speakers to RCA for the amp to get its signal.

No argument on the heft of the power line.

There are wires in the rear door which carry 'low power' audio signal from the front. Slap a RCA connector on the and call it good. (This is what I did)

Back to the power line however. Might it be better to locate the amp closer to the front of the truck to shorten the power line and run new speaker wire to the rear?

 

[RVR OVR]

I have 0/1 gauge wire that came with the amp and sub. The guy I bought it from pulled it out of his car. Looking online it seems that the recommendation for 1000W sub runs anywhere from 0/1 to 4 gauge. Problem is that this shit is THICK. Would look like a snake under the carpet running back to the rear of the truck and I might even have to trip the pillar plastic between the front and back seats to get it there.

Anyone think I could run this under the vehicle? I did that with my rear brake controller power line and it has been fine for years?

The amp is huge, can't find anywhere to mount it up front. I plan to mount it on a board then mount the board and the amp in one of the storage areas on the side.

There are wires in the rear door which carry 'low power' audio signal from the front. Slap a RCA connector on the and call it good. (This is what I did)

Did you also keep the rear subs? That is what I really wanted to do, split that line and run it to the new sub and leave the old subs in tact as I had already upgraded those. This way I get the small sub punch and the large sub boom combined.

I was going to use a kicker adapter that takes input from the speakers and sends only the bass to the sub but that approach is much better - https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLO...ords=kicker+sub+adapter&qid=1570153671&sr=8-1

What did you use for the remote turn on for your sub? Did you run a line all the back from the head unit or tap into something else?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[WaltNYC]

I used the existing power wiring (probably not a good idea, I know) and put a 250W amp in the pocket in the rear door.
There is a remote turn on wire already in place.
I purchased new/better drivers and installed them in the stock location.
It rocks pretty good.

Sub woofer amp wiring - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Discovery I - Sub woofer amp wiring - So the old subs on my 1997 were old and breaking apart. I bought a more powerful amplifier which I will place in the pouch of the rear door and have ordered new speakers that will match the power & impedance specs of the amp. There are six wires that enter...

landroverforums.com

 

[RVR OVR]

I used the existing power wiring (probably not a good idea, I know) and put a 250W amp in the pocket in the rear door.
There is a remote turn on wire already in place.
I purchased new/better drivers and installed them in the stock location.
It rocks pretty good.

Sub woofer amp wiring - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Discovery I - Sub woofer amp wiring - So the old subs on my 1997 were old and breaking apart. I bought a more powerful amplifier which I will place in the pouch of the rear door and have ordered new speakers that will match the power & impedance specs of the amp. There are six wires that enter...

landroverforums.com

Yeah, my first step on the subs was to simply fix the ones that were in there and broken, using the existing amp. For me, it is perfectly fine and sounds great for the $30 I spent on the subs. For my teenage son who is into rap, he of course wants to blow out the windows of the cars next to him.

 

[salvvia]

Dont you know the girls dig it it makes there ears tingle
And its got a funky beat and you can dance to it

 

[RVR OVR]

No argument on the heft of the power line.

There are wires in the rear door which carry 'low power' audio signal from the front. Slap a RCA connector on the and call it good. (This is what I did)

Back to the power line however. Might it be better to locate the amp closer to the front of the truck to shorten the power line and run new speaker wire to the rear?

OK, this may be a silly question, so bare with me. For # 2 & 3 is that positive and negative audio that goes to one RCA connector, or does each get an RCA connector? Thanks.

I pasted your notes from the other forum below.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
1) Grounding shield for the audio connection. I connected this to the ground connection on the amp along with #6.

2) Positive audio (mono)

3) Negative (ground) audio (mono)

4) Power - only receives power when ignition is in position 1 or 2.

5) Remote on. Only receives power when radio head unit powered up.

6) Ground.

 

[WaltNYC]

Just one RCA connector.

 

[RVR OVR]

Success!!! Thanks for the help.