| Author |
Message |
    
Shane (Shane)
| | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 10:46 pm: | 
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I just bought an 89 RR with approx 130k miles.
What would you replace if you plan to use this vehicle for a DD as well as road trips and for occasionally(2 or 3 times a year) towing. Vehicle runs and drives well. I can do all the work myself.
List so far:
New radiator or recore?
new heater core
fan belts(OEM ordered)
heater hoses
spark plugs
plug wires(magnicore)
cap and rotor
oil and filter(mobil 1 and K&N)
air filter(k&n)
Exhaust(hopefully NRP with cats)
brakes with front and rear drill rotors from DBA
with vented fronts added along with braided brake lines.
wheel bearings and seals
swivel ball seals(one leaks)
other possible items:
timing chain
water pump
alternator
cam.
I would like maximum power and performance(like that exists)
Currently the radiator and exhaust leak so those are top priority. There is no apparent problem with the heater core but I have heard that they like to go out around 100k.
Any other ideas suggestions? |
eric
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2002 - 12:09 pm: |
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Well, I'll tell you what I had done. I bought my '90 with 150K.
Rebuid distributor -Would barely get over Cajon Pass (5500'?) out of L.A. basin. Stumbled with little power in 4th with load on engine. Ran O.K. in 3rd at higher RPM's. And after I broke the plastic retainer ring while removing the rotor. If it's stuck DON'T pull up. Needed a rebuild anyway.
New vacuum advance unit.
New cat - it was broken inside. Go to Midas.
New belts.
New hoses. - Don't get cheap Allmakes brand, get genuine hoses. The Allmakes hose I got - the one from the pump to the lower radiator - was not made correctly, it wouldn't fit.
New plugs and wires. I got Bosch premium wires - they make a set for Range Rover.
Flush all fluids and replace with synth. - Controversial in some circles, but better in long run.
However, remove oil pan and remove the 1/4" layer of crud in the bottom of pan, or your new oil will look old after a few hundred miles. If you ignore this warning, you too, will learn from the bitter pill of experience.
Remove Ignition Module, coat back with di-electric grease and replace. This will help transfer heat away from module.
Or, get relocation kit.
Clean PVC hose and filter. It goes from right-front rocker cover to intake plenum. There is a plastic tee with a metal insert in the small end.
Soak the filter in gas and clean the hose.
Flush brake fluid.
Replace bushings with the Poly-Blues. Big difference in handling.
Radiator was 10 % plugged after new one was installed 2 years ago.
Replace A/c hoses, drier, some valve.
My heater leaked out on drivers side. Temporary fix lasted thru summer, but now I HAVE to fix it.
It may be o-rings and not the core itself, but I don't know how to determine which one.
Rebuilding engine now - rocker arm got plugged. The more I took it apart, the more items needed renewal.
I'd say engine was victim of average to poor maintenance by P.O.'s. It was a L.A. freeway/Mall queen. Used to tow also. |
Shane
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2002 - 05:27 pm: |
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thanks for the reply Eric.
I like all the tips except the poly bushings.
I prefer OEM rubber. |
eric
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 09:44 am: |
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The blues are softer than the reds, more like the rubber bushings. Rubber are fine, they'll last near 100K. |
han chung (Hanchung)
| | Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2002 - 05:53 pm: |
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shane,
congrats on your 89 rangie... i just got one too.
i take it you sold your d-90.
you have a nice list going, thanks...
this weekend i'm doing front brake pads, diff oil front rear, check swivel ball housing oil cuz think one is leaking, and transmission fluid.
so much to do...
enjoy your rangie...
han |
Ron
| | Posted on Sunday, November 24, 2002 - 09:02 pm: |
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trans service---filter and fluid |
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