| Author |
Message |
    
Ryan Wilcox
| | Posted on Friday, November 22, 2002 - 12:48 am: | 
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I have a 1989 Range Rover and i am putting 2" spring Spacers, 3" springs and 2" body lift (all from rovertym) and i am trying to figure out which rear trailing link set up is the best. The Safari Gard Stage III Heavy Duty Swing Arms, or the Rovertym Rear Heim Jointed Trailing arms. I just need to know which one everyone recommends. I like either.
Thanx
Ryan Wilcox
[email protected] |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Friday, November 22, 2002 - 10:06 am: |
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damn, you are going to need to worry about a lot more than just trailing arms. i would call rovertym and ask john if he can make a custom set of his traditional HD arms that would fit the application. i dont care for welding onto the frame and all that butchering.
rd |
stephan
| | Posted on Friday, November 22, 2002 - 11:33 am: |
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On my 88 rangie I have 3-inch springs and a 2-inch body lift with no problems at all. I don't have any vibrations but then again i hear it's a hit or miss type deal, guess i got lucky. I am also going to put in the spacers but i'm changing drive shafts before that. As for the trailing arms, i spoke to john about it and he said he can make a pair offset to match that lift. |
Randall Smith
| | Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2002 - 07:18 pm: |
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Ryan
I got my trailing links from Rockware. And I also got their frame sliders too. But my lift is only 2".
With the kind of lift you are talking about the arms need to be longer. Also you want the arms to be perpendicular to the frame mounts. If they are angled down when the truck is on level ground then the arms are already binding up. The stock arms are mounted at an angle, which is not good. Also Ironman's rear arm to frame poly bushings are made at an angle. Using the Ironman bushing can help you take some of the bind out of the arm mount.
Also with that kind of lift you may have to work on the geometry of the center link (lengthen?)
Personally I would not drive a vehicle on the street with that much lift and the rear arm mounting point moved upwards. There is a very good reason for attaching the arm low on the frame.
Randall |
johnny
| | Posted on Monday, November 25, 2002 - 05:00 pm: |
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I have about 5" in the rear of lift, with stock arms and bushings. If I were to correct my arms, I would make a longer arm, with the frame ear bent to level and gusset near the bend.
The a-arm will only be affected by lengthing the arms. The real culprit here is the angle of the arm's at rest, and to change angle, you will have to lengthen the material, but not the overall length of the arm.
j |
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