| Author |
Message |
    
SHERROD
| | Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2003 - 07:44 pm: | 
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1988 RRC...WHEN THE ENGINE STOPS (USUALLY WHEN SLOWING DOWN TO STOP OR AT A DOWNWARD SLOP)IT WILL RE-CRANK BUT IT HAS TO SIT FOR AWHILE; SEEMS LIKE IT IS GETTING TO MUCH FUEL....ANYONE HAVE THIS TROUBLE?
STEVE H |
John Cinquegrana (Johnc)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2003 - 11:59 pm: |
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Check the dist cap and rotor for any hairline cracks. Mine used to do this when warm and slowing down. |
tune up time
| | Posted on Sunday, January 05, 2003 - 11:16 am: |
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i would sugest a complete tune up. cap, rotor, wires, spark plugs. when was this last done. replace air filter and clean intake. remove intake duck an check throtle butterfly. if its dirty than it needs cleaning. make sure you use carb cleaner that is o2 sensor safe. check vacume advance hose for leaks. use never seeze when replacing plugs. gap plugs to propper spec and use dielictric grease on rubber boots for high tension leads. pick your self up a work shop manual and follow tune up proceedures. follow routine mantince as specified by intervals. probablly wouldnt even hurt to replace your coil |
sherrod
| | Posted on Sunday, January 05, 2003 - 01:02 pm: |
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tune up was done less than 8k ago....problem seems to be fuel related (injectors).... seems to run fine once started.....i am on my 2nd coil now (less than 4 months)....
steve h |
Ron
| | Posted on Sunday, January 05, 2003 - 11:54 pm: |
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".....i am on my 2nd coil now (less than 4 months)...."
Odds are pretty good its your ignition module. They kill coils and give your symptoms.
Ron |
James F. Thompson Jaime (Blueboy)
| | Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 09:23 am: |
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just had the same problem on mine, '93, and as Ron mentioned, it was the ignition module. first thought it was a fuel pump which I ended up replacing anyhow since the sending unit connections were totally rusted out.
Jaime |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 10:06 am: |
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mine is rusted badly and i keep looking at it thinking this thing is going to leave me stranded.
i know unplug even just the ground wire it wont start.
anyone know of a decent aftermarket one? i'e seen a mean green one in an old series rover once.
rd |
James F. Thompson Jaime (Blueboy)
| | Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 10:33 am: |
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Rob,
when in panic mode trying to locate a sending unit as Tulsa was getting dumped on snow wize, called Rovers North who told me that these are on back order from LR. RN had one in stock that they were going to sell for $179.00 including the pump.
Jaime |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 11:59 am: |
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oh,, i meant the ignition module
i dont want to even look at my pump. rumour is i dont have the access panel. i'll have to butcher one in this summer.
rd |
James F. Thompson Jaime (Blueboy)
| | Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 12:15 pm: |
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there is also a kit to relocate the LR module to a cooler spot. as there is a Mallory dist. on the RR, didn't ask they how much it was. the Mallory module was easy to find at the local speed shop.
Jaime |
SHERROD
| | Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 06:48 pm: |
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WHICH MALLORY DIST. WILL FIT THE RRC'S 1988-89?
PS...ROVER FINALLY DIDNT START AT ALL ON SUNDAY; LUCKY FOR ME IT WAS IN THE DRIVEWAY. |
Craig Alexander (Craig89rr)
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 10:03 pm: |
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Hey...b4 you buy the ignotion module, PLZ look into the baseplate pickup... when a module is going out...it will usually do it when it HOT... when you have an engine cut off on slopes...its the baseplate pickup not keeping up with ur timing. its half the price of an ignition module and its my bet that its it...i know alot of people who end up buying both beause they get the ignition module first....then 3 weeks later it starts up again... the 2 wires in the base plate will seperate do to a design flaw. go here and take a look http://members.aol.com/RRover4x4WD/pickup3.jpg
good luck |
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