| Author |
Message |
    
EricV (Bender2033)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 02:17 pm: | 
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Hello,
The time has come to replace my tie-rod ends. And while I'm at it I may as well upgrade the cross and track rods as well.
I know rovertym has a sweet set up but the rods alone are $235 add 4 tie rod ends and you push the total cost over $300.
Next candidate is welding black pipe over the stock rods to beef them up abit, but alas I dont have access to a welder, and I would probably need new stock rods and new tie ends ($140).
Which *finally* brings us to my question: I see that DAP is selling a heavy duty Bearmach rods w/ greasable tie rod ends for $160. I don't have any familiarty with Bearmach products. What do you guys think of these rods?
Thanks,
Eric |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 02:26 pm: |
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the greasables are on my shopping list.
from what I hear JBS's are bullet proof, but why not get greasable joints while you're upgrading?
in an ideal world, it'd be John's rods & Dap's ends. |
EricV (Bender2033)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 02:31 pm: |
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Agreed, but I am on a budget and trying to save for some RTE sliders. If the Bearmach rods are decent I think I'll go with those. |
Dee
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 03:39 pm: |
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IMO the off-the-shelf Bearmach are a good value 100% improvment over the stock tubes
I bought them last year from DAP… Not a bad value for 169.00 plus shipp. Chrome Molly 1.185" Dia solid stock to include 4 grease-able joints. I did modify the rods a bit: I milled a flat on the ends to allow adjusting the shaft and i primed and painted them... I also added a mount for the steering stabilizer, its a universal type from Rancho ((The bracket not the stabilizer)) I plan on a relocation of the SS so a bolt on works for now... |
Will Roeder (Will_Roeder)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 03:45 pm: |
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if you really want the ultimate strength in Tie rods...go with rockware. There is no rod that will not ever bend for a rover, from what i have heard. I have heard of the RTE rods bending somewhat easily also.
the nice thing about the rear rockware tie rod is that it is offset. So, instead of trying to make it "unbendable", it is just moved up, and more out of harms way. |
wont say
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 04:14 pm: |
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sleeve it and don't turn back. |
Will Roeder (Will_Roeder)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 04:29 pm: |
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http://expeditionexchange.com/hoshos/2tierod.jpg
That is a good picture to show what I am talkin about.... |
Randall smith
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 04:39 pm: |
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I have the RW offset tie rod and wouldn't trade it for any of the straight ones.
Also keep in mind that something has to give. If the not tie rod, then maybe the swivel housing$$.
Randall |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 04:52 pm: |
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does DAP/Bearmach sell just greasable ends sans rods? |
marc olivares (Pugs)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 05:02 pm: |
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eric,
just about to post a "tech" on building h.d.steering rods total cost with stabilizer relo. kit around $125, the rods are 5/16th wall dom tubing w/ jam nuts etc...
e-mail me for more info.
marc
olivares@xmission.com |
John Lee
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 05:05 pm: |
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Blue,
BP also sells the greaseable ball joints. Just the joints and no rods.
I agree with Will and Randall. Those straight and thick tie rods are definitely stronger than the factory rods, but I think they are a far inferior design to the Rock Ware offset tie rod. There is no usable tie rod that is so strong that it will not bend. If you hold these rods horizontally, you can see them bowing just from their own weight. Add the weight of truck and it's no contest who will prevail. With a rod that long, and with a vehicle as heavy as our trucks, I think simply thickening the rod is insufficient. A far better solution is to offset the rod for additional clearance. |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 05:44 pm: |
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i don't see how a solid steel rod could bend without having banged into a solid rock.
just as Randall said, something's got to give - and i'd rather sacrifice the steering rod than the knuckle. seen it happen, this is one at the uglier end of scale.
one thing i don't understand - please clear my mind of it. What purpose do the offset steering links serve?
still unpacked Ho's links  need to see if i can straighten one up!
peter |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 05:51 pm: |
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thanks John. I like that pic of Ho's tie. Illustrates the bene of offset quite well. Nice little custom skiddie too.
hmmmm....maybe cockware tie, RTE drag link, & greasable balls... |
Dee
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 12:03 am: |
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RW rod has a great idea, Shit now I have to go back to the drawing board on my design.
If I was in the market to buy one and not making my own I would give it serious consideration over all else out there.
“If you hold these rods horizontally, you can see them bowing just from their own weight.” John I take it you were joking
I can say for fact while I was holding them there was a deflection in my arm, those dam things are heavy.
A while back we had this same discussion somone posted lifting there Disco by the Bearmach rods so I had to try it. I did try the lift my DI by the track and tie rods, the before and after measurements were the same. FWIW My wife was going to kill me if I bent them also I’m shy of big ass bumper and winch up front. So it may bend with that additional weight added?. As for the stock ones I did bend them by hand to fit them in the shitcan.
John, You are correct (Did I say that) a big ass heavy rod is not the best solution. What is? IMO For The ultimate rods start with a thick walled chrome molly tube with seal and pinch welded inserts add some custom HD rod ends.
How many of you out there would spend $250.00 per rod. Then to really set it off add a Rock-Ram hydraulic system. And a saginaw pump If the interest is there ill build them. A $500 to $2500 steering upgrade will not be for the average Land Rover owner.
No one mentioned the SG, my evaluation on the SG rods. I had them on my RRC a few years ago After I installed them I bent the little stock adjusting rod (It was not included with there new tie rod) SG wanted $125.00 for that little sucker also. Im not willing to pay 3 x $125.00 for a .750” OD diameter rod. Also it came rusty and greasy and the paint rubbed off in my hands when I received it. And that was on the third try, It took them 3 times for the right size shipped to me… |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 11:48 am: |
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i couldn't find the pic of the rockware rod - can anyone give me a link? |
Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 06:41 pm: |
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I'm making my own... 1 1/8" heavy wall tube... Bent like RW but using 3/4 rod ends... I've run this same setup in my Jeep and never bent/broke or any other nasties, and it's gotten plenty of abuse...Plus if you can do it Chrome alloy rod ends are cheaper than ball joints, 7 years and they still haven't semed to any worse for wear... |
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