| Author |
Message |
    
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 06:34 pm: | 
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Please help someone! My DII needs new front rotors. No problem, me thinks, I've done this myself once before... Damn rotors are hard to get off, but not too bad.
We'll, I've been PB Blast'ing it, pounding on it, and pulling with all my might for about 24 hours now. I've heated it up even, to a bit over warm, but I'm afraid of damaging the hub with too much heat.
Ideas? Please?! |
Steve
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 06:40 pm: |
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It sounds like you tried everything I was going to suggest. So, I have one question, do DII have retaining screws? |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 06:49 pm: |
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Yes, one, but I took it out. |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 08:13 pm: |
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It would be easy to remove if it weren't for that damned mud-guard. The problem is, it's bolted to the hub, behind the rotor! I'm starting to think about getting out the dremmel (or angle grinder) to cut that thing off, then I could get my mallet all around the rotor, and gently tap it off.
I think I just talked myself into it. Grr! |
muskyman
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 08:38 pm: |
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take a large three jaw puller on the outside of the rotor with the screw pushing on a plate on the studs, crank up the presure , then bang the outer edge of the rotor with a BFH.
good luck! |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 12:59 am: |
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I found someone who could order me a puller big enough, but I'd have to wait 3 days, and pay $240.
I think if I could just get my BFH all around the rotor, I could walk it off the bolts. Hense my thinking about cutting off the mud guard. Perhaps I could simply drill some holes through the mud guard to stick a metal rod through to beat on it with. |
Jack (Jack)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 09:17 am: |
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Once, I had to soak the frozen areas with Liquid Wrench, for a couple of days - on a Volvo but similar set up. There may be some better 'professional grade" penetrating oil, but if you have not tried any, it wouldn't hurt. I'm looking at the same repair on my DII in a few months. |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 09:21 am: |
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Liquid Wrench and a BFH was the way to go on my D2. But now I'm wishing I put something on the rotor and hub to keep it from rusting on for the next time. |
Jack (Jack)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 09:28 am: |
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Anti-seize compound? Any chance of it getting spun onto the rotor? Otherwise it sounds like a good idea, since the rotors seem to be a replacement you can count on in "x" number of miles. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 09:59 am: |
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dont use anti-sieze...no no no...it will liquify and rotational force will send it out to contaminate the pads.
you can get a chinese puller at northern for under $50 bucks,and parts dont care if it says snap-on or made in china as long as the puller dosent strip the center screw when you crank it up.
pullers are an investment in your tools that needs to be done. I own about a dozen and when you come apon stuck stuff and pressed on/rusted on stuff they are the way to go.
allthough pounding works it also can damage things like ABS sensors,ball joints...ect ect
the combination of loading it with pulling force and then hitting it will dramaticly reduce the number of swings with the hammer. |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 10:00 am: |
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Erik, depending on your mud habits, some people swear by cutting them off anyway, so that its easier to clean the crap out of it. |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 10:49 am: |
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Musky,
Who is 'northern'? I'd love to have a puller for this application in my toolbox, but I can't see paying $240 for three pieces of metal and a screw. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 11:01 am: |
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northerntool.com
puller set
the 8" should be plenty big, the size refers to the length of the arms not the size it can pull.
you also arent trying to use the puller to do all the work, just to load up some force to make your hammer blows more effective. |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 11:25 am: |
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Terrific, thanks! |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 11:33 am: |
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another thing you can do with pullers is grind a small relief cut at a 45* angle to the edge of the rotor to get a better grip if the claw ends of the puller are to short.
I have also drilled holes right thru roters/drums to get the arms at a 90* angle to the part on really rusted on ones
good luck |
Jim
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 12:12 pm: |
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This may sound stupid but how are the lug studs affixed to the hub? Are they pressed in?
If so, would it be an option to just drive the lug-studs out (or "in" as the case may be) to break the rust/bond to the rotor?
Worst case, you'd have to replace a few of the studs but isn't that a relatively simple job?
I had a similiar problem with an old Buick and that's how I did it but, admittedly, that old Buick was not a Land Rover.
-Jim |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 01:03 pm: |
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I'm almost to the point of putting it all back together and taking it to the dealer. I drilled a hole through the mud-guard to get a large steel dowel in there to bang in it from both sides, in an attempt to walk it off with beatings. It doesn't budge.
I'm calling arround to try to rent a large gear puller...
Anyone have any idea how much I can safely heat that thing? It's about 60 degrees out... |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 01:05 pm: |
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where are you eric? |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 01:16 pm: |
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So. Cal, Orange County. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 01:28 pm: |
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little to far for me to bring mine by...lol
but god knows the trip would be fun
thom |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 01:41 pm: |
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Yeah, but thanks.
I did find one place that has a 9", two-finger puller for $60. Guess I'm driving to Anaheim. (Not in the rover) |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 05:32 pm: |
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Yeay! I got both of the front rotors off, with the 9" puller I bought from TrucPartsCo in Anaheim. Of course it couldn't reach all the way out to the rim of the rotor, so I cut notches in the 'stump' of the rotor for the puller claws to grab onto:
Using this method, both front rotors (both corroded onto the hub bolts badly) popped right off, with a few cycles of banging with a rubber malett, then tightening up the puller.
Thanks everyone for your help, esp. musky. I hope I can return the favor someday. |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 05:34 pm: |
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Grrr... I got some security volation... Let's try this again:
 |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 06:18 pm: |
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awsome! glad to hear it worked out.
thom |
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