Anyone running 33" tires?

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Author Message   -bob- (Xavetarx) Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 05:13 pm:    If you are, how high did you go over stock? I'd like to go with rovetym's 2" lift kit, or OME (1.75 front 2.25 rear). I'm hesitent to go to 3" for fear of finding those lovely vibrations. Anybody like OME over Rovertym or vise versa? Is 2" enough for 33's?   Will Bobbitt (Rkores) Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 06:25 pm:    Bob, Two inches is enough for 32's or 235/85/R16's, not 33's. If you go with 3 inch springs, you may or may not have vibes, also with 33's your really need to gear down to 4.11:1 gears from 3.54:1 gears. Plus you have 10 spline axles so those will probabley need to be upgrades to 24 spline, with a 24 spline diff. Without the gears your acceleration will be horrible, and it will put alot of stress on your drive train. Will   perroneford Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 07:36 pm:    I have 34" tires and my acceleration is find. Every truck is different. -P   Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 07:53 pm:    Perrone, what's the max. grade you climbed since you bolted on these 34s? peter   Rob Davison (Pokerob) Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 08:10 pm:    you know i am going with the 265/75 on my Range rover and i cannot tell a difference from stock like i could with the disco. i think it is more about RR aerodynamics vs all the shit i had strapped to the disco rd   -bob- (Xavetarx) Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 08:22 pm:    I'm going to have two sets of wheels/tires. I have the michelin 275's on there now (for daily driving/snow), and when I lift, I want to run a 33. I want the MT baja claw, but I think they're only in 32's (so I might end up with just a 32). In all honesty, this will mainly be my tow vehical (other rig is a 79 Bronco with 44's Dana 70 axles, 460, etc..) and daily driver. I'm not sure it's going to handle the duty of towing, but I'll give it a try. It'll see offroading occationally, but I won't even come close to the beating the Bronco'll take. So 32's + 2" lift = OK 33's + 2" lift = :-0   perroneford Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 11:21 pm:    Peter, I live in FL. We don't have grades. And I'm also 93 ft. above sea level so the air is nice and rich. I am quite certain my results would be different if I lived in the Rockies. -P   Rob Davison (Pokerob) Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 09:50 am:    bob,, how wide is more of an issue than how tall. any idea on the width?   James F. Thompson Jaime (Blueboy) Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 10:30 am:    bob, my RR has 235/86-16 and when full of shit on the rack and in the back it is a dog with 3.54 gearing on hills especially at any elevation or headwind. empty as Rob says not too much difference. as a tow vehicle, personally think without a gear change it will be a dog with fleas slow. my next step is 4.11 to get back into the powerband. Jaime   -bob- (Xavetarx) Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 01:40 pm:    Baja Claw: LT305/70R16 (33x12.50) with a sidewall with of 11.7" and tread width of 10" The minimum wheel size is a 7" and it's a radial... should be a nice road/offroad tire by my guess. Right now I have 225/75's and that's all I know personally (what I got the truck with). It "seems" to move quite well for me. -bob-   James F. Thompson Jaime (Blueboy) Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 02:13 pm:    Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revolutions Difference 205/80-16 6.5 in 14.5 in 28.9 in 90.8 in 698 / mile N/A 225/75-16 6.6 in 14.6 in 29.3 in 92.0 in 689 / mile 1.3% you're basically at the stock tire size so stock performance. add height, width, and weight and it changes the picture. just something to consider. Jaime   -bob- (Xavetarx) Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 11:00 am:    I'm not really worried about performance with these tires. It'll be my alternate set. I will definitely put the stock tires on when I'm doing the daily routine. These will be for a little offroading, and the occasional prance around the neighborhood for fun. I'll always have low gear! Rob, With these tire dimensions, think 2" will be enough? I'm going to measure right now (damn it's cold outside!) the diameter I have with the 225/75 and see where it might hit with the 33" tire. I'll also see where I might end up with an extra two inches of height. So basically, where am I going to run into trouble (contact wise with the body/tire) with the 33" tire and 2" of lift? -bob-   Larry Grubbs (Larryg) Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 06:49 pm:    Why not just go with 35's? And don't look back! Larry   -bob- (Xavetarx) Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 11:55 am:    hmmm... there's an idea... I'd kinda like to keep the factory paneling though!   kevin bowers Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 12:21 pm:    Everyone has brought up some good points. Also, you need to watch width/backspacing, as you will rub on the radius arms (even with the adjustment nut fully out), and the coil top mount in ther rear (at full compression). I live at 7,500 feet elevation, run 34" Swampers, still running 3.54 R&P, and my tired 3.5L. Can you feel the speed? My truck is a daily driver (1 mile each way to work though), and locked and low is still fine. The need to either change the gears in the LT230 or to change the R&P to 4.7 (or so) is in the future. Don't be shy with the grinder....cut away! I have cut my fenders, quarters doors. bumpers..., and done it tastefully. It can be done, even as I did on a rust-free southwestern Rover (which probably makes most people back east cringe!). If you have decent travel, you will likely rub at some point of compression/extension. Personally, I think running a 12.5 wide tire will cause more chances to hit (fenders or inner components). While the "skinny tire" debate continues, the 34" X 9" on stock three spokes give the least amount of trouble, in my humble opinion.   -bob- (Xavetarx) Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 02:23 pm:    Kevin, you didn't mention anything about a lift. Does that mean you just chopped a LOT?! What is the width on your 34" swampers? I'll be running the tires on the five spoke, saucer middle style wheels.   Rob Davison (Pokerob) Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 03:45 pm:    bob, you are going to have to butcher. maybe not for around town driving, but when that thing starts to flex offroad there is going to be no room for those fat tires up in the wheel wells. especially with only a 3" lift. i have 265/75 and it is kind of tight. how much cutting i cant say. rob   Shane Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 04:45 pm:    show pics!   kevin bowers Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 05:05 pm:    Hey Bob, Sorry I forgot to mention my lift...I am running Rovertym springs (which I got aboout 3 1/2" lift out of). I JUST finished making/installing 1 1/2" aluminum spacers front an rear (done last night, so no testing yet). I don't need to however, as the only "contact" I get is at full turn with the Swamper lugs barely hitting the radius arm. I fabbed some longer bolt-stops (which prevent a full turn), but didn't want to screw up my turning radius too badly. I have done a lot of work to my radius arm bushings (drilled/ground...), and to the trailing arms. I have my rear springs retained top and bottom, and still get excellent travel. My front travel definately is close to that of a three link set-up, and no rubbing!. The Swampers are 34" X 9" on the factory three spokes. Before I cut the quarters and rear doors, it still didn't rub, but was DAMN close! I have cut 4" off of the fenders, and almost 2" off of the quarters and doors. Check out my pics under Kevin Bowers in the Range Rover section. I have more if you want to see how I did the doors or edges... Really, it can be done well, and most don't even know it's been cut. I'm not sure of the backspacing of your rims, but I have run 5 different sets/styles of tires, and going with the 9" wide set-up has worked well. I live in the snow, and run trails wet and dry with good luck so far. I air these down to 8-10 psi, and have yet to blow a bead (knock on wood). If I do, that's what the Power tank is for, as I have re-seated a bead with it before. Take a look at my pics on this site (remembering they are truly 34" tall), and see how tucked they can get. I take it you are talking about a Range Rover, and not a Disco, right? I'd be glad to give info or advice on cutting if you would like - the first cut is the hardest! After that, you lose your "shyness"! If you are determined to run a 33" or 35" X 12.5, you'll need to run aftermarket rims. The problem is that the backspacing pushes the wheel out, which means you have to cut anyway. Sorry for rambling, and hope it helps. I'd be glad to send pics or chopping advice if you need it!   kevin bowers Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 06:14 pm:    Shane - Did you want pics from me? Please post your e-mail address, and I'll send some. If you have specific angles (the fender cuts...) just let me know. Thanks!   -bob- (Xavetarx) Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 10:53 pm:    Nah, I'm not going to 35's. 33's max! It's hard though, I really have the urge to just go all out. I think 2" and 31's or 32's. Now I'm at 3" and 33's. To think.. I started out just wanting to level the thing because the springs are sagging... it's an addiction!!!   kevin bowers Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 11:02 pm:    Too funny - You are exactly right. You start out just trying to level it out, then a few mods to make it light-trail worhthy, and one thing leads to another. It sounds like you have the right idea though - Decide how much lift you really want and need, and do it once (if that's possible.) Nail down what kind of driving you do the most, and what kind of trails you run, as this will guide your priorities of your upcoming purchases, grasshopper!