OBD codes P1316, P1314, and P308 Log Out | Topics | Search
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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through February 02, 2003 » OBD codes P1316, P1314, and P308 « Previous Next »

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Joshua Smith (98hoo)
Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I had my codes read tonight, and all these appeared. I read through some old threads and read that the 1316 was multiple misfires causing harmful emmissions? Anyone know what 1314 and 308 are? The problem with this truck has been discussed numerous times - a vibration only happening at higher speeds for the last three years!! I have done wires, plugs, had the injectors cleaned, compression checks, ran the wanter through the intake trick..... what else can I try????? Sometimes I just want to thow it in reverse when it does it just to blow the damn thing up. Any help would be appreciated.
 

OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Valve Job, Valve Job, Valve Job
 

Paul Long
Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 07:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

P1314; Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank B. P0308; Misfire on Cylinder 8. So things are pointing to cyl. 8. Mine missed on decell sometimes 7, sometimes 8. Dealer said valves. After giving it a drink of water from time to time, Seafoam at idle, last week I ran a can of Chevron Techron through the fuel tank. Instead of mixing with 12 gallons of fuel, I only mixed with 5 gallons. For the first in over a year, I have driven it through the problem range TWO days and no codes set, no miss. These are so sensitive that DAILY it would set a code when I left off the fuel. I think I had a weak spray from the two injectors, and at the only point in time when the least amout of fuel was called for, high speed decell, it was probably stopping the spray all together. I'd try a new injector in #8 or switch two to see if the problem moves to the other cylinder before the last resort of a valve sticking. However, I would think if that was your problem you should get P0174; Too Lean Fault Bank B. Mine did, thats what led me to possible carbon on an injector tip, or goo in the injector. I still don't believe mine has sticky valves since I can't make them stick at top end when they're moving the fastest. I'll believe it when one goes through the piston I guess. Hardheaded huh? So far mine MIGHT be fixed!
 

Joshua Smith (98hoo)
Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the advice.
The reasons that I am leaning away from thinking it is a stuck valve are - The compressions checks out fine and if I downshift, the problem stops. I was thinking that the problem would be worse at either idle or at high rpms, but it mainly seams to happen just after slowing down. Where can I find this seafoam stuff? Another mechanic recently told me it could be a catalytic converter. Any thoughts?
thanks again.
 

Doug (Sagger1)
Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm new to the rover, but could it be the VSS?
 

Joshua Smith (98hoo)
Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Forgot to add that I replaced that as well and still have the problem.
 

PaulLong
Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I get my Sea Foam at NAPA auto stores. The compression test shows the valves are seating at cranking speed. It is a test of the quality of the seating surface and how well the rings hold pressure. If the valve guides are tight on the valves, at high RPM the valves can't move up and down fast enough so may hang up before the next compression stroke. That's when the compression is gone. The valve stem will be scored like they have been pushed up and down in the guide with no oil. Deeply scratched. New style valves have a thinner cut down section for carbon to deposit itself on. Called carbon cutter type. The combination of these newer style valves and reaming the guide slightly larger cures it. I wouldn't think down shifting would stop it either. By down shifting it's taking the load off or loading internal parts the opposite way as in decelleration. That would also create a much higher vacuum in the area from top of piston all the way to the throttle plate. (vacuum is at its highest at idle) That's how you have to look at things. Everything you do causes parts and pressures to change. A lot of things will mask the problem until one day you realize, hey by doing this it also changes THIS.... wonder how that's related to the problem... If that stops it from missing, you may be on to something. I don't know about rebuilt injectors. I was a mechanic for VW Audi and the only Bosch injectors that were repairable were diesel. Gas were sealed, and the "CIS" constant injection system type with no electric power needed to open and close them. Maybe you mean the electrical portion was rebuilt? If it's easy to switch injectors, I would switch two and after the code is set again have it read to see if the miss went to the cylinder with the old #8 injector. That at least would eliminate an injector problem theory. It will be a process of elimination.... Since you get the Damaged Catalyst Code, and it's been going on so long, that could be a possibility too. Don't know why it would only affect #8 though. Or how that would effect the theory of the problem being fuel, spark, or mechanical. It will be one of those three. Any vacuum lines or connections on the intake manifold near that cylinder? DII only has vacuum connections near the front of manifold that would effect the front cylinders more than the back. Dealers have the advantage of "test" parts, even if it's trying a new one out of the box, test drive and give it back to the parts dept. if it doesn't fix it. The best mechanic we had at the VW dealership had a pile of known good parts on the bottom shelf of his roll around cart. If no one else could fix it, it was his turn. Sometimes the best have to just try things. Even take the customers vehicle home to duplicate problems.
You mentioned your gas mileage being aroud 10?? Any possibility of #8 injector not shutting off and flooding that cylinder at times? Color of plug may show it, but after it clears up, you drive it home and get the plug out. Color may be back to normal. That fuel consumption seems like a lot. Don't know what code raw fuel into the exhaust would set. I'd try having someone follow you when it misses to see if you gat a puff of black smoke when it clears up. That would show excessive fuel at that given time. Cats may burn it off. My advise comes from the old school before fuel injection, computers and cats.... The basics are still there though. My problem has been a relearning experience for me. My codes are STILL off. I'm leaning towards mine finally being fixed. If not, the Techron sure made a difference after running it through stronger than I ever have before.
Don't feel bad, I passed the "ASE" certification in all categories and my own had me stumped for about a year!

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