| Author |
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Mike H
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 04:47 pm: | 
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This may sound like a dumb question but I can't tell the dif. in looking through my manuals. My Mechanic says I need a Valve cover gasket and my head gasket are leaking. Aren't these one and the same? And is this a do it yourself job to replace?
Thanks
Mike |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 05:06 pm: |
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Oh lord have mercy no they most definitly are not the same. Yes both could be DIY jobs but based on your question...I'd advise a knowledgable person be their to assist in the case of the VC gasket....and probably not a good idea for you to tackle the head gasket. But I get way ahead of myself. What symptoms does your vehicle exhibit that you and/or your mechanic have observed to make the above statements. Or was it a friday and your mechanic decided he needed some extra cash and you happened to be the target dujour. |
John Moore (Jmoore)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 05:19 pm: |
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Yes give us your symptoms, year and miles. But to answer your question. The Valve Cover gasket is usually a rubber or cork gasket located on top of the heads between them and valve cover. Easy to replace.
The head gasket is metal or composite gasket located between the heads and the block. Requires disassembly of the top 1/2 of engine.
I've done both, hope this helps!
-John |
Mike H
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 05:59 pm: |
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Thanks all, I have a D1 that just hit 100K. Mine was diagnosed with the Leaks in Valve Cover Gasket, Head Gasket, T-box & Main Engine Seal. big $$ to fix so I was tryingot figure out what I can fix myself as a novice or will most liekly just continue adding fluids. The manual I am using Hanes for repairs. |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 06:22 pm: |
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depending on the year of D1, Haynes may be useful or not. It doesn't cover 96-on NAS 4.0.
peter |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 08:23 pm: |
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Just add oil, the new gaskets leak anyway. Check the spiral seperator in the RH valve cover ( A.K.A. PCV fitting). It may be clogged and causing the oil leaks. Remove the spiral by pulling straight up otherwise it will break. I would soak it in some form of de-greaser first if it looks real bad to help unstick it. Clean all the gunk off and clean the vacuum port that goes to the intake manifold as well. This may help slow the leaks down. |
andy Coleman (Andy99)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 09:01 pm: |
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I have a 99 D2 that has leaky head gaskets and rocker cover gaskets. I am doing it myself. I bought the workshop manual and a gasket kit, and I think everything is going to go okay. I've never done this before either. Wanna race? We should at least compare jobs. I have a feeling that I am going to have to machine the heads down- why else would they be leaking. I am loosing coolant through mine, so that is why I have to replace. |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 09:06 pm: |
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Don't have the head machined if it is flat. The LR head cannot be machined much, .002 |
andy Coleman (Andy99)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 09:33 pm: |
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If the heads are flat, what caused the leak? |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 09:39 pm: |
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Shitty gasket, expansion and contraction of alum over and over. |
Pugsly (Pugsly)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 12:33 am: |
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Andy -
don't automatically machine the heads. But do send them out to a machine shop with the specs, that way they can clean and check everything and do any machining that is necessary.
And don't forget to use new head bolts!
I recently did the same job on my V8 - it takes some time, but there is nothing that is really that difficult. I highly recommend chasing the threads on everything and making sure you have a decent torque wrench (basically, don't get in a hurry at the end to finish up), and use anti-seize everywhere. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 01:05 am: |
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Quote:and use anti-seize everywhere.
never use antisieze on head bolts
the torque spec is based on a dry clean unoiled bolt going into a clean bore.
i head job on a all aluminum motor is a tricky job make sure to follow the recommended torqueing sequence and make sure to clean the deck very very well before replacing the rebuilt head.
yes I said rebuilt head...you have to be a penny pinching moron to go down to the short block without having the heads done its only a couple hundred bucks at your local napa. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 10:45 am: |
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Musky:
The manual says to lightly oil the prevailing torque headbolts. The bolts used with the steel gaskets are to be given a drop of loctite. You're right about the wisdom of having the head work done. It only cost me $212 including a couple of valve guides.
Oliver:
My Left head was milled 0.009" and the Right 0.008" and it runs great. To remove the metal cloth in the breather, I drive it out with a 1/2" socket extension.
Paul |
Pugsly (Pugsly)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 11:55 am: |
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Musky -
according to my V8 overhaul manual the torque spec is for lightly oiled threads. You can view online at
http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/engine/V8overhaulManual.pdf
It was my mechanic that suggested using antiseize instead of oil. |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 06:32 pm: |
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Sorry paul, I was wrong. The reface limit is .02 and the warp limit is .002. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 02:18 pm: |
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well...guess I'm wrong
but I would say anti-sieze is still way to slick to use on head bolts
I have rebuilt dozens of motors including a all aluminum big block I used to run and I have never seen directions to oil the head bolts before torquing. no wonder these things have such a problem with head gaskets and leaks?..I would guess that what they mean is dont clean the production/shipping oil off the bolts I would be flabbergasted if it meant oil them first. and even if it did I would still not add much if any, it just flys in the face of to much that I have read seen and expierienced with head bolts on all kinds of motors.
but dont let me stop you |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 11:19 am: |
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musky, oliver, paul,
If leaky head gaskets on these things is truly an age old problem, does Fel-Pro make a loc wire head gasket for these motors ? If not, it may be worth a phone call to them (or a petition) to get them to start. These gaskets were a god send to me on a nee grenade 289 hipo Ford motor I built 10 or so years ago. I used to measure head gasket life in minutes, now with the loc wire's it is a non issue. Truely, a silver bullet. |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 08:06 pm: |
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Have seen it mentioned before but i don't know if anyone followed up on it.
I think you're nominated  |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 08:54 pm: |
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Oh Joy...Rapture and extreme elation...well almost. I checked the Fel Pro web page catalogue and they show nothing for us. Also looked about elsewhere.... TVR in the Tuscan racers uses copper (also larger dia. head studs), other folks spay schmootz on the tin gaskets and lastly the composite. I'll float this out to the fine folks at Fel Pro can't hurt. |
Pugsly (Pugsly)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 09:18 pm: |
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The new LR V8 head gaskets are composite, don't know who makes them but they are Fel-Pro like. From what I've heard the new style gaskets with the new style head bolts work a lot better. |
Ron
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 10:14 pm: |
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"Just add oil, the new gaskets leak anyway"
spoken like someone who has been around rovers for a while.
Ron |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 11:34 pm: |
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The best gasket I've found so far is the orange clay. It seems to hold in more oil than any other and it is cheap to replace. |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 12:12 am: |
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Hmmmm, that explains why my 73 LC (from Alabama) doesn't leak oil...plenty o' orange stuff |
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