| Author |
Message |
    
Kelly Fristoe (Kfristoe)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 03:32 pm: | 
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The leak is coming from the coupling on the top hose as it connects to the radiator area. It's the top hose that is situated between the radiator and air filer on my 2000 D2. It appears to be a minor leak at the present time but it's driving me crazy. That connection there seems pretty loose. Should I worry about it blowing completely off and loosing all my oil out in the middle of nowhere? How hard is the to repair/replace? I've only had this thing for about a year and by no means a mechanic. Should I have the ••••••••••• do it (two hours away from where I live) or is that something a local mechanic should be able to do. My warranty expired 500 miles ago. |
Chris Browne
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 04:53 pm: |
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Get it to the dealer to fix under warranty ASAP before it lets go and the hot oil sprays on the exhaust manifold
Or keep the hot dogs handy when your disco turns into a BBQ |
EricV (Bender2033)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 05:23 pm: |
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It's a fairly easy fix. I just replaced mine a few months ago. The hoses are about $75 each, but someone here had some custom made at heavy equipment shop both for about $50.
Good luck! |
Kelly Fristoe (Kfristoe)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 06:54 pm: |
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My primary concern is being out in the middle of nowhere and the line blows apart. It just so happens that I am taking part in an organized off road event tomorrow with the Texas Rovers Group. It's just my luck something like this would happen. I'm contemplating on whether or not I should go. |
Larry Grubbs (Larryg)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 06:58 pm: |
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Being a trail leader for many off-road events. I would advise you not to go tomorrow. 90% of all our breakdowns are due to maintenance problems. If this line blows during the trail ride and you let it be known that you knew it was a problem, you will catch a lot of flack and upset a few people. Take the time to fix the problem right and wait for the next trail ride.
BTW, buy the part, remove the 2 nuts and replace with new part. Check and fill lost oil, drive away. Shouldn't take you more than 1 hour to do this. There are no torque values to worry about. Just don't overtighten the nuts. They have o-rings and seal great.
Larry |
James Gall (Jimmyg)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 02:41 am: |
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I had the oil lines leak for 2 years. No big problems. They were $60 for both lines to replace. It takes like 35 minutes to do and I drained the oil. My Rig has 174,000 miles and this is the first replace. I guess the D2's are just made like shit. |
Alex Cabrera (Alexcabrera)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 07:13 am: |
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Adding to this.. mine is starting to weep a bit.
James, where did you purchase the lines? Or where did someone go to get them custom made for 50$. |
Kelly Fristoe (Kfristoe)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 05:07 pm: |
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Decided to go ahead and go on the trail ride. Everything went fine. I will be checking into getting the lines fixxed as soon as I can. I feel fortunate compared to one dude with us. He flipped over. You can go to www.texasrovers.org and click on events, then Nocona for pictures.
And yes, I am curious to know where you are getting your lines. Are you doing this yourself, at the dealership, etc.? Sure would like to know the details. |
James Gall (Jimmyg)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 10:55 pm: |
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Discount Rovers |
Bruce
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 10:59 pm: |
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I have the same issue and I will remove and head to my local heavy-machine shop who will repalce the rubber hose portion while I wait. Fast, easy and far cheaper than purchasing new lines.
If you have to purchase, then use Nathan @ Discount Rovers. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 08:04 am: |
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There is no real need to replace the lines, nor have new ones made. If you remove the ferrule (use an angle grinder) that is crimped onto the line, you will find that there is a hose barb beneath it. Once you get to this point, it is an easy fix to replace the crimped-on lines with new hose (make sure it is chemically compatible with the fluids being conveyed) and merely use hose clamps to retain the hose. The pressures encountered in both the lubricating oil and the •••••• fluid are modest at worst and the hose clamps will easily retain the hoses. Total cost should not exceed $10.00 for hose and clamps.
Paul |
Bruce
| | Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 09:06 pm: |
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Thanks Paul. I was under the impression that the special hose-fitting was required due to the pressure. Sure beats pulling the entire pipe. |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 09:26 pm: |
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if this is the trans oil cooler line it certainly can blow out from the pressure.. ask me how i know
use nice hydrualic line rated at least 300psi.
still a cheap fix
rd |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 08:18 am: |
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300 PSI is pretty modest pressure, in the scheme of things. Although, I don't believe the •••••• pressure is supposed to run that high. Most all of your hydraulic hose will be rated far in excess of 300 PSI.
Paul |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 10:00 am: |
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right, but just rubber line at the Hardware store isn't going to be RATED at that. or in other words, hydraluic line like everyhting else says 300psi and it's good till 1000 before it blows.
the massive surge of pressure happens right as the torque converter locks up. typically the pressure isn't an issue, except for the surge.
rd |
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