| Author |
Message |
    
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 06:02 pm: | 
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I've done a search and found this
well i can't get the link to work but anways here are the symptons:
when i make a right turn I get a pop from the front left, right under my feet. It doesn't do it all the time though.
Also excuse my ignorance but, coming out of the swivel ball housing [the big ball that makes the wheels turn right & left] there is grease coming out. The grease is on my disc brake cover at the bottom and on the inside of my wheel.
And sometimes also ussualy when I just start going I hear a and I qoute "ckik ckik ckik" sound.
please diagnose my problem
thanks |
muskyman
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 06:09 pm: |
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leaking swivel ball seal . partially destroyed left CV(they need the lube the seals retain)...maybe bad radius arm bushing banging under your foot |
Kyle
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 06:11 pm: |
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Pan hard bolts not tight or bad bushings.
Kyle |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 09:32 pm: |
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radius arms - the rods that turn your wheels? |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 09:34 pm: |
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what is the panhard bolts? |
Axel Haakonsen (Axel)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 09:46 pm: |
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They are the bolts that keep your panhard rod from falling off your truck... |
GregH
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 09:46 pm: |
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The bolts that secure the panhard rod!
The panhard rod sits immediately in front of your front axle and helps prevent lateral movement of axle to frame. One end attaches to frame the other to axle. Shot bushings often cause "clicking" or "clunking" sound.
GregH |
Axel Haakonsen (Axel)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 09:50 pm: |
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Now, the panhard rod on the other hand, is a rather thick rod that runs paralell to your front axle. It is the one that is not bent in this picture, the bent one is a steering link:
http://www.discoweb.org/wildwest/dusy/dsc00216.jpg |
GregH
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 09:57 pm: |
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Nice pic!
While they replace the steering link they might think about a diff guard too!
GregH |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 10:29 pm: |
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ok, all this time i thought that the sound was the bearings. I know that I'm digging a knife in my wallet but, I'm going to call land rover and set up an appointment. This doesn't sound like something i can conquer myself if its the cv or the seal on the swivel ball housing. |
Carter Simcoe (Carter)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 10:38 pm: |
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LUBE UP!!!!! |
Axel Haakonsen (Axel)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 10:47 pm: |
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Quote:While they replace the steering link they might think about a diff guard too!
Replace the steering link?? Nah, that's for wimps:
Steering link fix
PK made it off Dusy with that crow bar welded on, and drove it for a couple of weeks afterwards. How's that for a trail repair?? |
Axel Haakonsen (Axel)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 10:52 pm: |
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Quote:ok, all this time i thought that the sound was the bearings
Actually, if it was the bearings, that would be BAD, too. Don't ever wait if you suspect bad bearings..... (Bearings don't seem to be the problem in this case, though.) |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Monday, January 13, 2003 - 11:13 pm: |
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can i put the lube in there myself
so it will have some lube until i get to the mechanic?
where do i lube it at and what kind of lube and how? |
GregH
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 12:36 am: |
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Nice trailside repair-hehe. Since I'm such a wimp, I hope they had to battery weld that and didn't "cheat" with an underhood welder!
You can replace the grease with tubes available at different rover vendors or from the dealership but it'll just leak out around wiper seals until they are replaced. I still use Mobil 1 75w90 diff lube in my swivel housings and carry the grease just in case I get a leak.
Without lube your CV will be toast in short order. Are the swivel balls rusted or possible damaging your seals or are seals just worn out? Anyway, your CV joint may already be toast from lack of lube.
GregH |
GregH
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 12:43 am: |
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I should add that the "click, click" upon start sounds like your CV is already gone.
GregH |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 01:14 am: |
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the swivel ball isn't rusted at all.
so basically I should take it somewhere soon. |
Carter Simcoe (Carter)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 11:11 am: |
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"can i put the lube in there myself
so it will have some lube until i get to the mechanic?
where do i lube it at and what kind of lube and how?"
Ohhh man, you totally missed that one Blake, LOL
The lube is for your bung hole when LR gives you the "repair bill" |
Brendan Kearns (Howboucha)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 01:56 pm: |
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My 95 made the clicking sound too. Didn't have it looked at, and about a year later it became a clunk clunk. I ended up bascially destroying my left axle, and the bearings that go into the differential. Cost me about 1200 doolers to fix it. The mechanic said something about water in the diff. caused it. Now how did that happen? A disco in water, can't be!
B.K. |
Brian
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 01:56 pm: |
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Blake,
I might get blasted on this board for this, but, depending on the tools you have, and your mechanical abilities, you might consider doing this yourself. Once again, I stress that having the proper tools is important. There are really no tools out of the ordinary, but I would suggest having the basics such as sockets, beer, wrenches, beer, a hard rubber mallet, beer, etc. A pair of circlip pliers is a must, but they are not expensive. There are enough visual resources on this board and on the web to give you tons of pictures and instructions. There are even people on this board to give you the proper criticism and ridicule also . Seriously, it is not as difficult as it sounds. It is simply unbolting objects in a row, replacing the seals, and bolting everything back up in reverse order. If you need a new CV, you simply separate the old one from the axle and replace it. It will probably be obvious if the CV is bad. I did the same procedure without ever seeing the hub except in pictures and on this board, and the only mistake I made was not resetting the swivel preload, which is easy and I have since done. You will feel good about what you have done, and save no telling how much $$$$$. There are others on this board who might provide additional opinions whether you should try this or not. BTW, www.alldatadiy.com is the greatest thing which you might look into. For $25/yr I think it is worth it. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 03:39 pm: |
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I agree...Blake this is where your real journey begins. this seams like a daunting task but its not. and its something you need to learn if you are going to sevice your rover on the trail at some point.
when I was a kid I was lucky to live next to a guy that taught me a great lesson.
he said : when ever you need to do a job,instead of paying someone else, use that money to buy the tools needed and learn to do that job yourself. you not only learn to do it. you get to save the money and keep the tools.
he had the greatest tools !(taught me to stick weld at 8 years old)
blake use the $400 dollars your gonna save and buy some tools and dive in. your not alone!. this is whats so cool about Dweb there a ton of people to hekp you all they can. it will be fun for you and leave you with a sence of pride and knowledge ownership that cant be bought or paid for at any price.
JUST DO IT!!!! |
GregH
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 04:02 pm: |
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If you don't have the workshop manual-get one. Even you don't do the job yourself...
GregH |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 08:46 pm: |
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yeahh carter i'm gonna need some. Actually its still good from my Auburn tuition.
is there any web pages that shows how to do this?
The tech section didn't |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 12:16 pm: |
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ok here's what the slaughter house (•••••••••••)told me.
swivel ball leaking (duh) $525 to replace 
they didn't check the cv , but i told them to drive it, listen to it, etc. and check it since it could be bad since the swivel is leaking. Why didn't they check the thing, he said because i didn't tell him to. When i asked what they checked they said the swivel, also he said they must have just done a "visual" a visual i did a visual.  exscuse me
others
lower oil cooler line leaking
oil pan leaking
i hear that if a rover doesn't leak then something is wrong, right?
so are the oil leaks a must?
i would try these myself but i am at school with only a parking lot and no tools.
This sucks
oh yeah my typing sucks cuz i'm having to use an on screen keyboard cuz mines broken. Don't worry i'm gonna do a visual today on it. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 12:46 pm: |
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Blake:
I want to weigh in on the side of you can do it yourself, in a parking lot, in a single day, even your first time. I will deviate in one way though, if it is your first time, hold off on the beer until you're finished! (did I just say that?)
To check your CV joint, find an empty parking lot. Go to the furthest corner of the parking lot and begin driving in ever-tightening circles. If your CV joint is bad, there will be a point where when you turn the wheel, the CV joint will begin to make a rhythmic clunking noise. Now, when you do this, the only thing you are changing is the position of the wheels, not starting/stopping, etc. so you are spontaneously removing other variables to isolate your investigation to the CV joints.
This can seem to be a daunting project, but it really isn't. Start at the outside and remove bolts and asemblies until you get to the swivel housing, replace bad parts and reassemble. The only tool you will need to buy (probably) is the 2-1/16" socket for the hub nut. You can buy your parts from overseas or Discount Rovers and save big bucks. When you buy seals, I suggest the RTC 3511 as it has a double lip, can only be inserted one way and has a self-bottoming ring so you can't put it in too far, nor not far enough. Get new bend-over washers. I may have to work on your truck someday and don't want to find gnarly washers!
You didn't say how many miles your truck has, nor what year, however, unless it is an extreme case like Brian's apparently was, you might not have to set the swivel preload.
It is not an easy job, but not an unreasonably difficult one. If you check the archives, I have written some procedures on this project, and even a quick and dirty means of swapping swivel ball seals.
Oh yeah, you almost certainly will not need new wheel bearings, the bearings on our trucks are the same as used on John Deere tractors! To put it lightly, they are stout. You willl need/want to repack them with bearing grease, however.
Don't worry too much about the oil pan leaking, but keep an eye on the cooler lines-when it becomes necessary, they can be repaired inexpensively, rather than replacing with genuine parts. If oil cooler lines are allowed to go unrepaired, they can break, spraying oil on the engine resulting in nasty fires.
Peace,
Paul |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 12:58 pm: |
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98
66k |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 02:07 pm: |
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Blake:
If you need CVs this early, the swivel had to have been allowed to run dry. My truck has 160K on it and the CVs are still fine!
Paul |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 06:40 pm: |
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i don't know if the CVs are gone I just want to make sure first before they give it back and then something else breaks.
I hope your right Paul maybe they will be saved.
I did the driving around thing to listen for the popping noise that I stated earlier, when i turn right, but heard nothing (not popping or grinding or ticking) so maybe the cv isn't bad using that as a experiment just like the one you gave me.
The trucks in the shop now or i'd do it again. |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 06:53 pm: |
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Blake,
The dealer is probably just going to keep telling you to replace everything you mention. They did a "visual" on the swivel ball? Does that mean they looked at it, scratched their balls, and said "Yep, it sho is leakin...fi twenti fi to fixit"?
Take it to a private mechanic and have them disassemble and SHOW you what's goin on in there. You might just need to re-seal... |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 07:17 pm: |
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I found this somewhere's
Posted by Dave jackson (UK) on December 22, 1998 at 07:03:13:
I read about a way of replacing the seal without taking the whole assembly apart.
Basically you cut the seal slide it over , tiny bit of superglue on the cut and place seal with the repair uppermost.
Iread about this on Teriann Wakemans excellent website but have since been told about it by a few more people, apparently it works great if done with patience.
Has anyone on here done this?
I have put the URL in for Teriann's website if anyone wanted to read the full how-to. I apologise in advance if the url does'nt work
Teriann's website |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 07:22 pm: |
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yeah that is why i just told them about the swivel ball and for them to drive it and check everything out. But as you have explained very well infact the did a visual (looked at it), scratched their nuts and said fi tinni fi suh.
I mean hell i looked at it
if i wanted someone to look at it i would have taken a pic of it and posted it on here
I know the thing is leaking, i want them to be mechanics and find out whats on the inside cuz its not hard to look at a leaky whatever and say uh bubba dat big O round thangs a drippy some stuff, tell da boss, we done somefin |
muskyman
| | Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 10:58 pm: |
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blake ,
dont be so hard on them, most mechanical repairs go that way.
this is not complicated shit here,as everbody above has told you . all you do is take it apart replace the bad/broken shit and put it back togather the way it came apart.
dealer hears it may be leaking...they look and say yes it is...they know that when they tear it down anything thats busted in there will need to be replaced and you will need to pay for. so why look stupid and speculate? Them saying all the things that might be busted just makes you more likely to go find someone cheaper to fix it...they want the job. ...so they nod and say we'll tear it apart.
fi tweeny f1 best case senerio
thats the game, until you are willing to do it yourself you have little choice but to play
thom |
GregH
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 12:16 am: |
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Blake-
Twenty years ago I was in your shoes and had been forced in to the "fix in it in the dorm parking lot" situation a few times. It's easy for me to say here in California but if you were nearby, I'd be glad to help with the R&R in my driveway.
Good luck (and get the workshop manual no matter what you do-it'll help you understand what a repair entails and what tools and parts you may need before you start).
GregH |
Will Roeder (Will_Roeder)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 12:27 am: |
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Blake,
Ive got a few friends @ Auburn(some students, some work out that way). they are all off road guys (all non-rover). Anyway, they have a 4 or 5 bay shop full of tools where they are always working. Im sure htey will let you use the shope/tools, and give you plents of help(although none of them have any experiencce w/rovers.....)
Ill get in touch with them and let ya know.... |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 06:38 pm: |
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thanks Will
what is the best workshop manual
or is it just called the land rover workhop manual? |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 02:04 pm: |
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Blake, I'll fax you exploded diagrams and any other pertinent pages from the manuals. Hell, wait another week and I'll send you fresh pics
Paul, where are you picking up your RTC 3511 seals? |
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