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Greg
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I was up under my front end the other day, then I woke up and sobered up (just kidding). Anyway I noticed the tie rod ends on my 1997 Discovery SD were cocked in funny directions and the seals were degraded and falling off. So, In my infinite wisdom, I decided to change them. Several questions before I order the parts: Will I need four total, two for the track rod and two for the steering link? And, I assume I will need two LH threads and two RH threads. Finally, what size tool (Craftsman, not the other) will I need to pop the tie rod ends off? I mean, the fork-shaped chisel that I cannot remember the name right now. Anyway, give me the low-down complete with URLs if they exist. And, tell me if I am off-base with everything I wrote above.

Thanks,

Greg
 

Alex Schubow (Alex)
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You will probably need three of one thread and one of the other (the disco has an adapter on the tie rod, so it uses two like-threaded rod ends on there).

to take them off, just loosen the castle nut and give the knuckle a few good raps with a hammer. that will pop it right out. don't bother with a picklefork.

you can buy greasable rod ends from DAP cheaper than you can get the stockers from the dealer, or Atlantic British, et al.

you may also want to think about simply replacing the steering linkage at this point. you will have a very difficult time separating the ends from the rods after they have had 6 years to rust on there.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you've never used the two hammer method, and the tie rod ends have never been apart, you might wish to use the pickle fork, especially since you won't be re-using the tie rod ends.

Be particularly careful removing the tie rod ends from the tie rods. I have broken a tie rod end stud, necessitating an emergency call to the boys at Rockware! Use lots of penetrant, especially if you live somewhere that they use salt on the roads.

If I remember correctly, you will need three right hand and one left-hand thread tie rod ends, p/n RTC 5870 for the left-hand thread, and RTC 5869 for the right hand thread. The threads are 11/16-16 and the taps are hellish to find, in either direction of pitch.

When you go to buy new ends, I strongly suggest you get those with grease zerks. Also, when you go to install them, you may find that you can't tighten them down to the point where the taper engages. If this happens, remove the nut, place either one of the nuts from the tie rod end you removed, or a stack of washers between the knuckle and the nut, put the new tie rod end nut back on, tighten to where you engage the taper and the stud won't turn, remove the washers or nuts and then replace the nut and torque to desired torque.

Your steering wheel will not line up correctly when you're finished, in spite of how carefully you measure and what others may say (I've done so many I can't count and I have yet to have the steering wheel come out where I wanted it). This is no big deal, but DO NOT try to remove the wheel to reset, in spite of the manual, you can adjust the cross tube enough to get the wheel straight again. As for toe, you can do this yourself also, using a piece of chalk and a tape measure.

Good luck and don't run with scissors.

Paul
 

Greg
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Who is DAP? I keep hearing about them. Someone give me a URL.
 

GregH
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

www.dap-inc.com
 

Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 06:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg,

Personally, If you off road much I would recomend doing nothing about your seals untill you bash the heck out of your steering link and track rod, then changing them out. I think the ends are expensive.
 

Christopher Dynak (Adtoolco)
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I also have to replace both rods on my D2. I want to replace them with heavier duty ones like rovertym sells. So what I really need to know is do I buy tie rod ends from DAP for the D2 or D1? Or is there a difference?Thanks.

-Chris
 

perroneford
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 07:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,

I paid $11 each for my greasable tie rod ends. What are you calling expensive?


And Paul, You MUST be doing something wrong on your tie rod end installs. My steering wheel lines up perfectly every time. :)

Greg, if/when you replace the tie-rod ends, be sure to use some high quality anti-seize paste on the threads so rust will not be a problem in the future.

remember: "NO DRY THREADS ON THE ROVER".

-P
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 07:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yeah, yeah, yeah...
 

johnb
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

try using a pry bar to put downward force on the tie rod end,at the same time hit the steering arm where the tie rod end stud goes up through it.this has always worked for me,very nice when you need to reuse the end.
 

Greg
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Perrone,

Where did you buy your ends for $11?

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