| Author |
Message |
    
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 07:42 pm: | 
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toss the key in, and yatta yatta yatta, it wont turn over. everything EVERYTHING sounds normal.
when i turn the key off i get a short buzzing sound coming from the rear, assmue thats the fule pump letting me know it's getting power.
it seems like i am not getting spark. once i disonnected a single wire from that coil thing next to the air intake horn. so i gould get to my shocks easier.
i tried to start the car and it sounds just like it does now. slid the wire on and it worked.
the one side of the coil has this round thing on it that is totally rusted to shit (bout the size of a minimarshmallow). i am wondering if i need a new unit (i have a spare just not where i am at). i have the car thawing in the garage now... hopefully it will be fixed when i wake up tomorrow.
odd thing was it was 5deg last night and it started and today it is all the way up to 12 deg and nothing...
it always takes a while to start in the morning.. then it gets a gulp and starts.
any suggestions on a proceedure at which to start ruling things out?
i checked fuel pump fuse and pushed the inertia switch and wiggled a pile of wires.
rd |
Ben Ziskind (Tyziskben)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 09:00 pm: |
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Kick it in the rear a few times...... |
Randall Smith
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 11:05 pm: |
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Rob
That little thing beside the coil is a condensor, which reduces electrical noise. You may want to take the coil off and clean every connection really good. You can test for spark by using a timing light. There should also be 12 volts at each terminal of the coil when the ignition switch is in position 2.
You should also check for codes stored in the readout(not sure if 89 has a readout), which could be clues to the problem. Whenever you are having cold start problems, the coolant temp sensor(to the ECU) is suspect. This ECU is programed very rich fueling when cold, and has a tendency to flood easily.
It only does this when stone cold??
Randall |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 01:52 am: |
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never did this before. i'll let yall know whats up in the AM... time for bed now, watched the two towers again tonight, man was that good.
rob
p.s. i did beat on the floor above the fule pump just in case... |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 06:25 pm: |
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i followed these directions and i got 11 volts!!
next i did this and got no movement from the meter. key on shows no juice.
fyi i took the HT lead off the coil and held it next to the various metal areas of the car and cranked it over... i get no spark !
i have tried two coils, my original and my (unproven) spare...
any suggestions?
rob |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 07:36 pm: |
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i am concluding the amplifier is bad on mine, i hope my spare on the 3.5 L will fit, otherwise i'll have to NDA one here.
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SHERROD
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 08:54 pm: |
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I HAD THE SAME SYMPTOMS ON MY 89 RRC....I WAS ALSO LOOSING COILS FOR THE PAST THREE MONTHS....REPLACE YOU COIL AND SEE IF IT STARTS.....THERE IS SOMETHING IN MY DISTRIBUTOR THAT IS COOKING THE COILS.....BECAUSE OF THE AGE/MILAGE OF THE TRUCK, I AM REPLACING THE DISTRIBUTOR ASSEMBLY.
SHERROD |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 09:26 pm: |
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i have a new distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires that it needs anyway so i bought it all and will put it on tomorrow.
if i can get it running with the other amplifier and coil i am going to order new both of them , as i dont care to have this happen again.
the price of the coils vary from $29-$100 is there a big difference in quality on these or am i paying for the name? i was thinking of going middle of the road and buying a $50 unit unless someone cant substantiate that the most expensive (bosch) is that much better... after all stock did last 13 years.
rd |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 11:36 am: |
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Rob and Rangall,
the capacitor is there not to suppress the noise, but to make the spark longer. With it there, the voltage across the coil oscillates for a number of periods, as opposed to a single spike that would be without the cap. A bad capacitor WILL produce the symptoms Rob's seeing.
I've never thought about it, but it may be the same thing with my '89.
peter |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 11:44 am: |
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Rob - get any 12 volt coil from a parts store - I paid $8.00 for coil and $3.00 for condensor at local parts store.
Also - haven't torn mine apart - but how about air gap setting in the dist? There is also an igntion unit inside the dist that can go south.
Bill |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 11:48 am: |
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yeah, the ignition unit inside is the amplifier, land rover calls this alternate name and they mount it on the outside.
i get no spark so the gap is irrelivant at this time.
my second coil from my 88 RR parts car has no little capacitor so i dont know if it actually needs this.
i look into the generical solution bill, thanks for the tip
rd |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 11:56 am: |
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Rob,
one more thing - you may connect a 12V 8W bulb to the output of the amplifier (instead of the coil); if it flashes when the engine is turning over, your amplifier is okay.
peter |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 12:09 pm: |
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i'll try that.
accordfing to the meter, i get no power to the coil when i turn the key. but yet i have power when the key is off (like the amplifier is working in reverse ) i had a sever headache during all the testing and wasnt' able to put it all together untill i chilled out for a while. now it seems to be logical.
i will defenetly do your test before replacing, though i am ordering a new one anyways becasue i cant wait 'till i get home / another day to find out what's wrong.
rd |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 12:17 pm: |
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http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#ignition
i'm now just posting info here as a quick place to find it.
i'll start my bitching tomorrow if things dont work when i get home from work  |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 12:32 pm: |
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Rob,
where do you connect the meter to?
If you measure the voltage between the ground and the coil, and it shows zero with the key on, your coil gets the current.
peter |
Craig Alexander (Craig89rr)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 12:53 pm: |
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hey rob, i left you a msg at the roversnorth msg board with this same user name..it might not even be posted yet, but keep checking. good luck craig |
GregH
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 01:24 pm: |
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Rob-
Saw your posting on disco thread-I've had similiar probs that I quickly fixed with new ignition amp module and coil replacement (coil was old anyway) Another time (similiar probs) I traced to weird defective ignition switch.
Good luck-
GregH |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 04:08 pm: |
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thanks guys, i have the stuff on order and i will gang bang a new coil,rotor, dist cap, leads and spark plugs on tonight... if it doenst work, then it still has a decent tune up it's been needing for a year.
i have a used amplifier mod. to throw on and a new one arriving tomorrow. fingers crossed and shivering.
next step in the manual is the ignition swith i think. i dont know vehicle electronics for shit so this is a big learning experience for me.
thanks a lot for the suggestions
rob |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 11:09 pm: |
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okay, it's all in and everything is working normal. cant be sure what the hell the problem was but i still feel it was the damn module.
thanks for the help
rob |
Tony
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 10:11 am: |
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Chased these same sorts of problems in my '94 Defender (essentially identical under the bonnet to my new to me '89 rangie). Promlem turned out to be a combination of the module (on the side of the dist.) and the pickup inside the distributor. Make sure to change both out and replace the module with the remote version.
$.02
Tony |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 12:02 pm: |
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well i bought the direct replacement figuring the first one lasted 14 years there. and it was $245 compared to $85.
i will considered doing the thing on the inside, but i inspected mine thoroughly and it looked very nice and new. i have been warned, i'll look to buy one next pay.
thanks
rob |
Tony
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 12:47 pm: |
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BTW, as long as you're messing around in there, it's a good time to convert all of the coil connections to ring terminals and clean all of your grounding points. This is an often overlooked issue that can lead to some strange performance issues. 5 minutes with a wire brush can make a world of difference, and at least on the defender, the geniuses at LR tried to ground through paint. Add some corrosion onto the strap, and you're not gonna have much luck. |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 04:18 pm: |
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yeah , i wires brushed them and used contact cleaner and my white lithum greased them.
i looked at the base plate. 100 from AB , plus i noticed my plastic cover under the distributor cap was cracked and getting old, they sell those for $30.
i might as well do it right and not worry about it. so long as i make it to next payday...
rd |
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