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Daniel Rivenbark
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 11:18 pm: | 
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96 Disco. It was working fine, then for a couple of days it wouldn't hold a steady speed. Now it does nothing. |
R. B. Bailey (Rover50987)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2003 - 11:22 pm: |
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do a search for cruise control in the Keyword Search feature of this web board.
http://landrover.mrbaileyshistory.net |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 01:34 am: |
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yeah I feel y0ur pain daniel
but there is alot to search on
you may find some of my complaints on there
but the search is a wonderful thing |
embassured
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 02:34 am: |
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FWIW, many of the cruise problems have been atributed to the vacum hoses but when mine went out the dealer said it was the "cruise control computer".
$289 dollars later covered by the extended warranty - all was well. My symptoms were the same as yours.
Good Luck,
Eric |
gp (Garrett)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 09:47 am: |
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if the hoses are cracked spend $5 and about 30 min. of your time and it's done.
open the hood and look in the upper right corner of the engine bay. you will see some small tubing coming through the firewall and it will meet up with a 'T' fitting. check the hoses VERY well for small cracks. if there are any replace the entire sections of hose. windshield washer hosing works the same. |
Rob in NC
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 05:04 pm: |
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Daniel,
Garret is right. Spend the $5.00 on 6 feet of hose. Replace all the hoses and 90% of the time it will work again. |
David
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 09:20 am: |
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I too have been having a "intermitant" cruise control problem that have confused me. Sometimes the cruise would work perfectly then all of a sudden while driving along (50-65mph), it would "cut out". Sometimes a simple press on the steering wheel control would get it working again, sometimes not for another hour and sometimes not till the next day. Other times it will work for days perfectly. I changed the top most "short" hose (running from the t-connector) on up and thought that was helpping but not sure. It also seems like freezing night time temp. is making it worse (not coming on) but also thats not been consistant. Being that it's intermitant and can sometimes work for hours (and having a mind of it's own), I've discounted that it is a some other hose leak and may be something else. Any ideas would be appreciated.
**Just to mention, my rear windows occcasionally have a intermitant working situation too but when the cruise stopps working the rear windows do work (and visa versa) so their problems don't seem to be tied in together. |
Sus (Susannah)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 10:50 am: |
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My hose comes unattached every now and then because it has a small crack. I need to buy some new ones and replace it, but for now I just check to make sure it's connected and we are in business!
FWIW, I had that problem on another car once too...not a Rover. |
David
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 02:50 pm: |
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Thanks for your reply Sus! I wish it was just the hose unattaching. The upper hose you are refering to was the one I just replaced (which is a 5 minute job) and stays on perfectly.
My problem (as described above) is something more). Either it is with one of the other hoses or electrical. If it was with one of the other hoses, I would think the system wouldn't go on again, but it does.
Does anyone know where the two longer hoses go that terminate at the "T" fitting. One goes towards the underside of the vehicle and the other into the firewall. Thaks on this any any insight to my problem. |
tom carlton
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 10:09 pm: |
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One end that gos towards the headlamp, gos to the vacuum pump under the jack on rubber mounts. the other end gos to the brake switch (dump valve). at the tee try to blow through the line going towards the cabin, you shouldnt be able to, then have some one step on the brake. You should be able to blow though it. that checks the dump valve with out pulling the lower dash apart. most of the time if the hoses are ok, its the cruise control unit. about $214.00. passenger side behind glove box. |
David
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 12:50 am: |
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MY RESPONSE:
Hi Tom,
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll most definitely try blowing into the hose as you suggested. Just a couple of additional questions
1. I assume I do this while the car is running (in park) with the master cruise control switch pressed "on" on the dashboard?
2.Since the problem is intermitant, does it sound more like a problem with the cruise control unit starting to go bad or somehow a bad hose?
Thanks! |
kitster
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 02:38 pm: |
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I'm going to repost this, especially since I now know how to put the picture in with it. I hope this helps everybody with cruise control problems. Email me with any questions and I'll try to help.
Hello all,
I had some problems with my Cruise Control(CC) which a few of you seem to have and found some good things to check when searching on this forum. The only problem was, none of it worked in my case, everytime I checked something new, it seemed ok and was not the problem. Well, I have access to a shop, which, in turn, has access to some software that had the picture you see below and the troubleshooting guide that follows. Keep in mind, this requires a fair amount of electrical system familiarity and tools. For me, it rated fairly high on the DIY difficulty scale.
At any rate, you will want to check all vacuum possibilties before you continue with this guide. The vacuum from the pump under the jack at the front of the engine compartment on the driver's side, to the T junction just before the firewall, from the T junction to the actuator bulb, and from the T junction through the firewall to the brake cut-off switch.
One other disclaimer here: My disco is a 98, I know for sure that the 96's are different, but am not sure when the change took place.
Okay, you will need access to the Cruise Control ECU connector which is located behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and you will see this:
Now, with a few tools for testing electrical circuits and some patience lets begin:
1. Turn ignition on. Turn CC system on. Put transfer case in HI range and gearshift in forward gear. (from this point forward I will say "in drive" to mean the previous sentence). Ensure clutch pedal is released. Disconnect cruise control ECU connector. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to CC ECU harness connector termainal no. 8 (black wire) and positive lead to terminal no. 10 (orange/white wire). If battery voltage exists, go to step 3. If battery voltage does not exist, go to next step.
2. Turn ignition off. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between ECU harness connector term. no. 8 (black wire) and ground. If resisance is less than one ohm, go to next step. if resistance is not less that one ohm, repair black wire between CC ECU and ground.
3. Ensure ignition and CC system are on. Disconnect CC ECU connector. Using voltmeter, check voltage between CC ECU harness connector term. no. 4 (red/yellow wire) and ground. With RESUME/DECEL switch pressed, battery voltage should exist. With RESUME/DECEL switch released, no voltage should exist. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified check circuit from steering wheel switch to CC ECU.
4. Ensure ignition and CC system are on. Ensure CC ECU connector is disconnected. Using voltmeter, check voltage between CC ECU harness term. no. 3 (gray/yellow wire) and ground. With SET/ACCEL switch pressed, batter voltage should exist. With SET/ACCEL switch released, no voltage should exist. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, check circuit from steering wheel switch to CC ECU.
5. Ensure ignition is on. Ensure CC ECU connector is disconnected. Using voltmeter, check voltage between CC ECU herness term no. 5 (green/purple wire) and ground. With brake pedal pressed, battery voltage should exist. With brake pedal released, no voltage should exist. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, check green/purple wire between CC ECU and stoplight switch. Check stoplight switch. Repair as necessary.
6. Turn ignition on. Reconnect CC ECU connector. Using voltmeter, backprobe between CC ECU harness term no. 11 (yellow wire) and ground. Spin a rear tire at about 3 MPH. Voltage should be about 2.5 volts, or vary between zero and 5 volts. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, check yellow wire from CC ECU to the vehicle speed sensor. Check ECU. Repair as necessary.
7. Turn ignition on. Turn CC system on. Disconnect CC ECU harness connector. Connect a fused jumper wire between CC ECU harness term No. 1 (Orange/blue wire) and battery voltage. Connect another fused jumper wire between CC ECU harness term no. 7 (orange/red wire) and ground. If vacuum pump operates, go to next step. If vacuum pump does not operate, check orange/blue and orange/red wires between CC ECU and vacuum pump. Check Vacuum pump. Repair as necessary.
8. Ensure ignition and CC system are on. Ensure CC ECU connector is disconnected. Connect a fuse jumper wire between CC ECU harness term. no. 1 (orange/blue wire) and battery voltage. Connect another fused jumper wire between CC ECU harness term. no. 7 (orange/red wire) and ground. Connect another fused jumper wire between CC ECU harness term. no. 6 (orange/pink wire) and ground. Cacuum pump should operate, valve should close and throttle should open wide. If system operates as specified, repair CC ECU. If system does not operate as specified, check orange/pink wire between CC ECU and vacuum pump. Check vacuum pump. Repair as necessary.
I hope this helps someone. It's a fairly easy way to diagnose any electrical or component problem with this cruise control system. Read: Do steps 7 and 8 to check your vacuum pump.
In my case the ECU was bad. I can get parts at cost and spent ~$130 on a new ECU from the dealer.
HTH, Good luck,
Kit
P.S. This procedure is copyright 2001 MRIC and Snap-on Tools Company.
(I'd better give proper credit, right?) |
kitscott
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 02:48 pm: |
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WTF! I guess I don't know how to post a pic, I'll try again, if it doesn't work, email me and I'll shoot it over as an attachment.
Kit |
kitscott
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 02:55 pm: |
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WTF! I guess I don't know how to post a pic, email me and I'll EM it back to you. I tried twice here, and on the practice area board, and it said the file size limit was -1 KB, how is this possible? Do I need to register somewhere to be authorized to post pictures? HTH, good luck,
Kit |
Robbie (Robbie)
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 03:06 pm: |
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http://www.discoweb.org/cgi-bin/discus/board-profile.cgi |
Christopher Scott (Kitscott)
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 04:36 pm: |
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Okay, sorry for all the attempts, I didn't realize I had to be registered to upload pictures. At any rate, here is the picture of the Cruise Control ECU as it appears after removal of the glove box.
Again, sorry, I hope this helps.
Kit |
Brian
| | Posted on Saturday, January 25, 2003 - 03:01 pm: |
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David (and anyone else),
I had the exact same cruise problem (intermittentcy) and eventually replaced the ECU. Never has given me a problem since. Check everything else first. BTW, motorcycle fuel line comes in 3/8" like the cruise hoses. Replace your hoses with this and you'll never have to worry about the hoses again. Buy it at Autozone, etc.
Brian |
M. K. Watson (Lrover94)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 25, 2003 - 04:05 pm: |
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i have that same stop and go cruise control probelm, but the real kicker occurred the other day while driving into work. i have a 55 mile one way trip into Dayton from London and as i was approaching a stop sign i tapped the brakes to release the cruise and well, it didn't release just kept right on going. i turned to on/off switch off and it kept right on going. we it took both feet to whoa-ed down enough to get the truck stopped and to turn it off. as soon as i turned the key to the off position the throttle released. i am still not sure what the malfunction was but the ride was interesting.
mike w |
David
| | Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 10:06 am: |
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Hi Brial (and all),
I have exactly what you have described, a "intermittentcy" with my cruise control. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes not. I'll be driving along and all of a sudden it will cut out. At that point I can try getting it going again, sometimes it will re-turn on and sometimes not. I have a few questions.
1. If it was a hose leaking or a crack in one of the hoses, wouldn't the system not hold a vacumn and not turn on at all rather than have a intermittency" problem? I changed the upper most hose, the others look fine but I can't get to their "ends" so I'm not sure how to disconnect and change the two lower hoses?
2. If it is the ECU unit, (this is in my 95 Classic RR LWB), once I get to the ECU unit behind the glovebox (I assume it's located their in the RR too), is all thats required to remove and replace it a matter of diconnecting the multi wire connectors attched to it, remove the unit and reattach the connectors to the new unit and ready to go?....or is there something more like having to reset "codes" or a check engine light or anything else before using the cruise control system again. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! |
Christopher Scott (Kitscott)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 02:47 pm: |
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When I replaced my ECU it was plug and play, no resetting or anything.
HTH, and good luck,
Kit |
Brian
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 08:16 am: |
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For some reason, it always appears to be the ECU. Check everything else first, but have your new ECU handy. Yes, it is plug-and-play. |
David
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 09:55 am: |
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Thanks Christopher & Brian for your response. First I replaced the upper most hose, the one that goes from the "T" connector to the rubber bulb type item. That seemed to help keep the cruise control on for longer periods before cutting out. Sometimes just pressing the dash board cruise control switch off and on again and then the steering wheel cruise control "set" switch on, brings it back to life, other times not. I followed the two other hoses from the "T" connector, and one leads to the firewall and the other down below the engine. I can't seem to locate their "ends" so I can pull them off adn replace them before going the "ECU" route. I'd like to try that first if I can find a way to pull them. Also I presume that the ECU for the cruise control on my 95 RR classic is behind the glove compartment like it is in the Disco I . Am I correct about this? Thanks! |
Brian
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:49 am: |
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I swear you are giving me deja vu all over again. It is your ECU. Replace your hoses first, it is cheap and you will eliminate that problem for a long time. I don't know about the RR, I would assume it would be in the same place. |
David
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 11:39 am: |
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LOL Brian...don't mean to give you deja vu...I know what that is like. I first want to change the hoses but on the two longer ones (the one going through the firewall and the other going down beow the vehicle, I can't seem to find their ends. They both start out at the "T" connectore. Any idea where their ends are..or should I just cut them close to where I can no longer follow them and attach a connector to them and run a new piece of hose from that point? |
Jon Oldham (Jons99disco2)
| | Posted on Sunday, February 02, 2003 - 10:32 pm: |
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Thanks for the info on the hoses. My cruise also stoped working one day on my 99 discoII. Looked on this sight and popped the hood and found my vacuum hose was cracked at the t. Got a new hose from autozone(3/8" motorcycle fuel hose thank you Brian) and works fine now |
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