| Author |
Message |
    
Mike B.
| | Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 10:42 pm: | 
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I removed my front driveshaft trying to isolate the dreaded vibes. I noticed that my front driveshaft will only move in and out about 1/2 inch. How much is it supposed to move?
Thanks in advance,
Mike B. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 03:58 pm: |
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Mike:
You should be able to collapse and extend the front driveshaft ~six inches.
I had a similar problem where the splined shaft had seized due to the anti-friction coating solidifying. In disassembling mine, I bent a 12-ton press!
Keep collapsing and extending until you can separate the two parts. You may need to replace the shaft. I balked at this at first, but after disassembly, mine only lasted ~15K miles before the wear became so great that the shaft was wobbling around and making the vibes worse.
Peace,
Paul |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 07:08 pm: |
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Wow! Thanks for the response. This thing has been driving me crazy all day. Mine's seized! That is probably why I've got the driveline vibes! What a relief!
I've got the bumper to bumper extended warranty (Peak 2000) from Hal Moses. Hopefully, I can get them to pony up for a new front Driveshaft!
I priced a DC driveshaft from Tom Woods. $429.00 for the shaft and the adapter. A little too rich for my blood. The one from Great Basin will rub my cats, so it's really not an option for me.
Is the D2 driveshaft is a straight bolt up to a D1? I'm going by the dealership in the morning to asks some questions. I am thinking about getting a D2 driveshaft and replacing the UJs with greasable ones. I already have a spare set of #344's sitting around.
Thanks,
Mike B. |
danielcovaciu
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 08:27 pm: |
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Get the one that will rub the cats. This way you get to fix it by beating the cats, pounding the cat with a hammer, or squezzing the cat with a c-clamp. All good things in my opionion.
LOL |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 08:33 pm: |
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I have a DII front driveshaft with a bad u-joint that would be perfect for what you are doing. The only problem is that the dII driveshaft will not bolt straight into the DI. The flange on the T-case is different but can be changed over. |
Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 09:33 pm: |
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I like beating cats>>>>>> |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Monday, January 20, 2003 - 10:54 pm: |
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Oliver:
Thanks for the offer! I am going to the dealership in the morning and I'll try to find out about what it takes to mod it to fit a D1. How much for the D2 driveshaft? What part of the country do you live in?
Thanks,
Mike B. |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 12:11 am: |
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All you need to fit a DII driveshaft on a DI is the driveshaft and t-box front output flange from a DII, besides replacing the u-joints.
Matt |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 10:07 pm: |
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How hard is it to change the TCase output flange? Does it just bolt on, or do I have to open up the TCase?
Thanks,
Mike B. |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 10:23 pm: |
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Just remove the frt driveshaft, remove the big locking nut that holds it on, and remove. May have to use a puller to get it off if it is rusted. Recommend using locktight when reinstalling around the splines to keep if for leaking. Have only seen a couple of times but it is cheap while its apart the first time. |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 10:36 pm: |
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Thanks Oliver! That doesn't sound all that difficult.
I have definately learned a lot this week. I appreciate all the assistance.
Thanks,
Mike B. |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 10:40 pm: |
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P.S. Mike - you got mail |
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