| Author |
Message |
    
bryan
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 10:17 pm: | 
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97 D1, over 100K miles.
When accelerating or hard turning I can hear a sloshing liquid sound in the dash. This is usually an indication of low coolant. However, coolant level is fine. Also, recently had:
1) a new radiator installed
2) new head gasket
3) new water pump
4) new coolant flush, etc.
5) ....to consider declaromg bankruptcy due to expensive rover repairs 
Perhaps there may be some air pockets in the coolant lines/heater core. Is this a problem? If so, how do I get rid of this.
Thanks
Bryan |
daren
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 06:19 am: |
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get out of the river. |
Tom P.
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 10:09 am: |
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Bryan,
Make sure that you do not have air in the system. You should bleed the cooling systems after the work you listed. Essentially this is running the engine for 10-15 minutes (at operating temp) with distilled-water/coolant fed through the radiator fill plug. You can use a long plastic funnel fit into the fill hole, and filled with coolant. As the thermostat opens/closes you will let the air burp out the funnel as coolant replaces it. Monitor the coolant level in the funnel the whole time - keep it full!
OR,
If there is no air in the system, try reversing the hoses on the heater core - switch the inlet/outlet hose connections. All this does is reverse the flow through the heater core, but it can eliminate the noise. This was a LRNA D1 fix issued to dealers (ca. 1997-98?). Then you may need to bleed the system... ;-)
Tom P. |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 03:16 pm: |
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I have the same problem, my question is this. Should the coolant be filled to the cap or does there need to be room for expansion?
Mine is also overheating on trips over about 25 miles. Turning on the heater and blowing it full blast will bring the temp down to the high normal range. Any other ideas?
Shane |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 04:31 pm: |
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shane , have you changed your thermostat?...a slow overheat is ussally a sign of a thermostate that is stuck almost closed or a radiator that has many clogged/plugged cores |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 05:25 pm: |
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I'm guessing clogged radiator, if the thermostat was stuck closed or almost closed cranking up the interior heater wouldn't lower the temp would it? Or does the coolant take another route through the heater core? Because when I run my interior heater it brings the temp down within a couple minutes.
Shane |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 08:48 pm: |
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Have seen this trick a lot. In the D1 the air gets trapped in the heater core creating an area for water to slosh. I have removed the hoses from both the inlet and outlet sides of the heater core, then manually filled it to remove the air. I then crimped the hoses off, filled the bottle until it began to run out of the heater pipe to keep as much air out as possible, then reconnect. |
Milan (Milan)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 10:05 pm: |
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Turning on the heater will lower the engine coolant temperature (at least initially) even with the thermostat stuck.
I always thought the overflow bottles were there to not only catch expanding coolant but to also alow self-burping of the system. |
bryan
| | Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 10:56 pm: |
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Milan,
I too thought that is what the coolant expansion tank (bottle) was for.
Oliver, I am confused about what you did with the heater core. I got lost when you stated that after filling the core to remove air, you crimped the hoses off? and then filled the coolant expansion tank (bottle)? If the hoses were crimped, how would filling the bottle cause coolant to run out of the heater pipe??? |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 11:05 pm: |
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The hoses were remove from the steel pipe that is linked to the engine. Once the bottle was filled over the height of the pipe the coolant would run out.
The other way i have heard of doing this is to clamp off the heater inlet hose with the truck cold, let warm up, hold the engine near 5k, and let the clamp force go. It is supposed to flush all the air out of the heater core. Haven't tried this method though. |
Matthew O
| | Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 11:07 pm: |
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Actually, the noise you are hearing is for the inline humidifier for the heating/air conditioning system. This is more or less a reservoir that holds a supply of liquid that maintains the humidity level in the vehicle. If you look under the dash, on the passenger side, there is a small sensor with a red lead wire. This sensor is the humidistat. If it is fault, your humidifier reservoir may collect too much liquid |
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