| Author |
Message |
    
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 02:24 am: | 
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I'm going to replace my swivel ball seal myself. I'm going to need help. What do i need to buy? Rovers North has the seal kit for 18 and atlantic british has it for 38. What is the deal. What do i need to buy and what special tools do i need?
Also can anyone scan some good pics from their rover maintenance book?
Does anyone have any pics of the actual "stuff" being done. This will be the first time i've opened up anything on a truck that had grease in it so this will be the cherry popper. I'm not to dumb though I put on a body lift and suspension lift.
The land rover guys at the dealershit said that the noise that i heard was because my right front shock was loose, the night before they said that, i was looking at an offroad tape i made of my truck and i thought the very same thing. So they said it didn't sound like my cv is damaged.
But i'm going to need some info on what to look for when i see it to tell if its good or not.
basically i wish there was a write up in the tech section about it, at first when i looked at it I thought that the swivel ball was a huge ball bearing, and I told myself man thats gonna be heavy. Ok i'm gonna stop babbling cuz its almost 2 in the a.m. but please give me all the help you can.
Thanks |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 02:42 am: |
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also it sounds better to put gear oil in there to drain it out after going wading and mud riding.
Is this true and what techniques are best to get the grease out and the oil in. |
John Cinquegrana (Johnc)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 07:44 am: |
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Maybe this site will help: http://www.d-90.com/~daveg/Swivels/main.html
I think the only way of getting the grease out is to remove the CV joint and clean the swivel housing well. I used the grease once but went back to the gear oil...
I think the only special tool you'll need is the hub nut tool. While you're in there you might want to check the bearings, swivel preload, brake pads $ rotors, axles, etc... just a thought.
I think you can get some instructions from the manual (maybe from Perrone's website).
Good luck,
John |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 07:54 am: |
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Blake:
I forget what year your truck is, but you might not have drain holes for the oil. If you're comfortable, drilling and tapping holes for the drain isn't a big deal, especially as you will be removing and disassembling the swivel housing.
OK, onto the swivel seal replacement. There are several ways this can be accomplished, requiring differing levels of disassembly.
The quickest, dirtiest and cheapest method is to unbolt the retaining ring, cut the old one out, cut a slit in the new one, install the new one with the slit at the uppermost part and reassemble. I do not suggest you follow this, unless you are gushing oil and it is very cold out where you are, and you can do it right when the weather or other conditions improve.
The second method which requries slightly less intensive disassembly is to remove the swivel housing intact from the axle housing and not disassemble the internals of the swivel housing.
The final method requires complete disassembly. If you wish to inspect your CV joints, this is the method you will need to use.
1: remove front wheels, unbolt caliper (14 m/m 12-point wrench) from swivel housing and secure it out of the way so you're not stressing the hose. Remove the drive flange and unbolt hub (2-1/16" deep well socket needed).
2: remove hub. Beneath the hub is the stub axle. At this point, you will realize I left out draining the swivel housing as when you remove the stub axle (17 m/m wrench), you will be looking at the end of the CV joint and any oil in there is now on yoru shoes and driveway.
3: remove the cv joint assembly and axle from axle housing. Gently pull on the end of the CV joint and the assembly will pull from the housing. It is pretty straightforward, but I try to be careful to not bang the axle around while doing this.
4: remove swivel ball from axle housing. There are five 14 m/m 12-point bolts holding the swivel to the axle. It may require quite a bit of torque to release these bolts, so be prepared with your trusty BFH. Once you have removed the swivel ball from the axle housing, you have exposed the swivel seal. Pull the six bolts holding the retaining rig in position, remove old swivel seal, instal new swivel seal and drink a beer!
At this point, you can reassemble and be done, but you indicated you wished to inspect your CV joints. To inspect the CV joint, it will need to be removed from the axle. Believe it or not, you really do need to drive it off the end of the axle with a hammer! Gently drive the star (center part of the CV joint that mates with the axle) from the axle. Once you have done this, you can rotate the star such that you can pull the bearings from the CV joint. Once the bearings are out, you can visually inspect the star, cage and bell for galling, gouging, etc. The bell will look as though it has gotten hot-it has, when it was heat-treated. Don't be too concerned over the coloration. Upon reassembly, you really should use a new retaining clip on the end of the axle.
Reassembly is the reverse!
I'm certain I've left something out, but Musky will probably correct me :-).
Good luck, check back and let us know how it worked out for you, or if you need more insight.
Peace,
Paul |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 09:59 pm: |
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thats awesome Paul.
what do i need to buy |
Frode Hübertz Haaland (Discofrode)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 01:41 am: |
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Have no fear!
Take a look at Ottos site, you'll find several descriptions on the procedures - both working from axle flange and from hub inwards:
http://home.halden.net/discovery
Go to Axles & Diffs
And as said: Vehicles & part# differs between years and models.
Hope this helps!
Frode |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 06:02 am: |
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Blake:
You can get away with only buying the swivel seal and a tube of hylomar, but I strongly suggest new bend-over washers, drive flange gaskets, the paper gasket between the swivel ball and the axle hoousing, new CV retaining clip rings, bearing grease, and 90 wt oil (at the very least, you'll need to refill the axle). If you want to "Rebuild" the swivels, you'll need new wheel bearings, a new thrust washer, new lower swivel bearing, an assortment of swivel pin shims, and new oil seals. If you replace the hub seals, use the RTC 3511. You might also consider replacing the tie rod ends as you're in the neighborhood and will need to separate the control arms to pul the swivel off (I left that part off from above-where are Musky and Bluegill to correct me?).
Depending upon vendors, if you're not replacing the CVs, you should be able to do this for about $100 as most of the parts are pretty modestly priced. Don't believe what "They" tell yoou about the expense of fixing these vehicles!
Peace,
Paul |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 11:31 pm: |
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does Land Rover stealurshit repack the bearings on their 60k service.
I need to go to the dealership and take a class on rover mechanics. |
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