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Scott-OZ
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

An Australian company was finally done it. I saw an ad in the latest Aust 4wd monthly mag for a dash, button operated CDL for DII. Looks like it should be original equipment - goes into a blank near the HDC button etc. It must operate a solenoid - very nice.

I am thinking of it, but only when my warranty runs out - few years yet. I can hear you Al, but surely the software does not take into account that mechanically through the drive traini the thing is trying to drive front and rear diffs in unison - are they not fighting each other somewhat? If that is not true why does the Defender Extreme with ETC AND CDL have different ETC software.

S

PS - Al - the dealer's service manager I know quite well and has about 30 years experience with LR. He does not seem full of shit like most of them. What are your thoughts. How long have you had yours on?
 

Carter Simcoe (Carter)
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

button operated devices to turn the CDL on in a DII have been around for a while, someone around here has one as well because I remember their review of it after having it installed.

-I don't have a DII but if I did I would save a few hundred dollars and just install some sort of manual device, they all turn the same nut in the end and less electronic stuff to break as well.
 

Kim S (Roverine)
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have the solenoid operated actuator with "the button" that you are referring to. I've only had it since October '02. For me, it's a nice simple set up (and maybe just a little stealthy, easier to undo if so desired). My last run, the ABS, ETC, HDC sensors got screwed up and had to be recalibrated due to "some heavy articulation" (per my tech, LOL). Meaning a bump or something. To each his own, you have to remember it is a solenoid - One more electrical thing that will eventually fail. Heck, my D2 is so full of electronics, I figure what the hey at this point ... "It's the family wagon".

... I also have all of the parts from a D1 to work a mechanical one into whatever is left of my T case when/if I decide to go that route. It's a lot more invasive, and some people don't like the increased cabin noise, along with a few other things. Some people prefer the mechanical route with the (good) logic that it 'should' be more reliable. Keep doing a search here for CDL, and you'll find many opinions. I would just fashion a simple manual lever and try that out first. A bit more of a hassell getting in & out to lock and unlock, but simple. Just got to make sure you don't break it on something I guess. Well, time will tell ...

Kim
P.S. While the CDL makes a world of difference for me, (my security blanket) I have to tell you I have a friend :) with a D2 that drives just about everywhere the lockers (not just CDL) go and more without carnage or too much difficulty. (Read: good eye, judgement, skilled driver) :)
 

John Friederich
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2003 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I installed the AMV (button operated, made in OZ) unit after buying my D2 in Sept. of last year. It uses a door window motor (I'm pretty sure) mounted on a beatiful aluminum plate which mounts to the top of the TC. Button is mounted, wiring is run down the pass. side AC drain tube to the assembly. It works every time.

Wasn't cheap ($250 US, I seem to remember) but for me it was worth it. I'd use CDL a lot less, I have a feeling, if I had to get out every time to use a manual lever of some kind.

I'll elaborate on this unit if asked. The Aussies were extremely nice and helpful over the phone and email when I needed help.

-John F
 

Carter Simcoe (Carter)
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well not all of the manual set ups I have seen the DII guys using require you to get out of the truck, actually most don't. Simply adding the linkage from a wrecked DI seems to be the most popular but there are others floating around here as well.
 

Kim S (Roverine)
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 04:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Here are a couple of links with write ups for installation of both the mechanical linkage, and the solenoid.

Expedition Exchange.com on the mechanical linkage:
Discovery II CDL Install

Here is one for the solenoid right here in the tech section at Discoweb:
CDLSolenoid Install
 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Scott, to answer your question as to why the D110 Extreme (and for that matter the newer CDL enabled D2's) have different software? IMO it's quite simple. The D2 was setup to disable the ETC for diagnostic purposes. This allowed the mechanic to remove one of the prop shafts lock the CDL and put the vehicle on a Dynamometer, turn on the vehicle and have the ETC off so they could run one axle without the ETC going into a frenzy when it sensed one axle turning and not the other. Other than that the software is not much different. The D110's software will allow you to start the vehicle without the ETC being inactive but that would be the major difference. I would even argue that with the CDL you put less strain on the ABS/ETC system.

And as for choice of electrical engagement of the CDL vs. D1 mechanical linkage. They're both very stealthy. The solenoid might be less likely to transfer driveline noise into the passenger compartment but the tradeoff is less reliability. I personally don't notice added noise with my setup but like the mechanical simplicity of a few metal levers powered by my hand. Being mounted in that location, a window motor sounds very prone to damage from water and road salt.

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