| Author |
Message |
    
Jay R.
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 03:22 pm: | 
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Hi All,
I have a 97 Discovery SE (Sieve Edition) which has developed a bunch of oil leaks. I got an estimate of $4000 to fix all the leaks and it is just not worth it. I would like to fix some (or most) of them DIY to save $$$$. Here are the problems.
(1) Oil Pan leak : There is significant oil on the oil pan. I would like to drop the pan and replace the gasket (???) to fix the leak. Are there any aftermarket gaskets available for the oil pan or should I just use the "Right Stuff" or similar product for sealing.
PS: The other concern I have in this area is the rear main seal. I will not know if it is leaking until I fix the oil pan leak. Right?
(2) Timing cover : Is the resealing the timing cover a DIY job or is it too complicated ? Anyone done this before?
(3) Lower Oil Cooler Line: I believe this is the most important leak that I should tackle first. Anyone done this before? Procedure? What parts do I need?
(4) Head Gasket Leak: I have slight leak in the back of the engine block. I believe the head gasket is leaking. I would also like to rebuild the heads and replace the exhaust valves at the same time if they are carbed up. I don't think this is a very difficult job for me to handle but think it will eat up a lot of time. Anyone done this before?
Now, here are some questions :
(1) Are there any instructions posted for these job with pictures?
(2) Should I get some of them fixed by a professional? I don't want to screw up.
(3) Anyone know any reliable mechanics in the Seattle area? I contacted Gordon Perrot (G&S Services). He is fully booked and cannot take any new jobs at this time.
(4) Does the estimate look Ok? Should I just have the entire thing fixed by a mechanic?
(5) Are there any other recommended repairs that I can do while doing these jobs?
I would appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks.
Regards,
Jay R.
97 Landrover Discovery (Sieve Edition) |
Dave M.
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 03:52 pm: |
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Yikes! You could almost buy a whole 'nother land rover for $4k!
The oil pan gasket should be easy. I've replaced those on other trucks. Chances are a genuine Land Rover gasket is your best bet, but I'm sure there are good aftermarket ones out there too.
Someone else will give you info on the rest. Good luck. |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 03:55 pm: |
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$4000 to fix leaks? Wouldn't you be better off just donating the vehicle to charity? Or driving it straight into a wall? Or putting your head in the engine bay and repeatedly slamming the hood? Did the dealer give you that estimate? That is absurd. This is when LR build "quality" really chaps my ass. I'm pissed because my leaks are also getting too big to ignore. I'm attacking the dripping oil pan first - I'll be using a liquid sealant instead of the crap LR gaskets (first one leaked, so did the second one). Given the info you've provided, I'd also assume that your rear main is leaking too. That will be a real bitch to replace - I think I'll have the local shop boys (not the dealer) handle that, with me looking on. You should be able to handle the head gasket, but you're certainly taking on more with a valve job. I don't know about the oil cooler line or timing cover, but I imagine it wouldn't be too bad if you can handle the rest. |
gp (Garrett)
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 04:08 pm: |
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Crazy Gary's can fix those leakes for $3,999!!! i will personally guarantee it!! |
perroneford
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 05:21 pm: |
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1. Use gasket material like right stiff. Works great and is cheap. Took me two hours to do mine last summer. No more leaks.
2. Don't know
3. Fix that sumbitch now. I've seen trucks burn to the ground because of that leak. Just order new hoses from Rovers North or whoever.
4. Some here have done this. They'll steer you right.
(1) yes
(2) I'd leave the head gasket to a pro if you're not comfy doing it. Rear oil seal too.
(3) Nope
(4) Estimate is a rape.
(5) Plenty. There is always stuff to fix on rovers. Like chaning the belts and hoses while you do the timing cover. Adding an oil pressure gauge while you've got the thing torn down, etc.
-P |
Willie Joubert (Willie)
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 05:43 pm: |
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Pull the motor and do all the seals you can see. They will all go eventually, you obviously plan to keep the vehicle. Do a decent job. By pulling the motor you get great access and need not wash the undercariage and all......
LR sells the gaskets in kits, so you can do everything around the leaking one while you are at it. |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 06:56 pm: |
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The rover engine is a fairly simple design and is easiy to work on. If you have ever worked on a SBC you can fix a rover engine. The head gaskets are pretty straight forward and plenty of info can be found in past posts.
I would advise to do the timing cover and oil pan at the same time. The bottom sealing surface of the timing cover is the oil pan so doing them at different times would create additional labor and it would probably leak after. The best product i have seen for sealing oil pans is the "right stuff" and can be found at any auto parts store. The timing cover is simple and straight forward. If you can do the heads, you can replace the timing cover gasket. Replace the front crank seal while this is out as well. Be careful and patient when putting the cover back on, The oil pump drive is a bear to get to align and stay in place sometimes but will eventually fit.
I would recommend doing the valve job while the heads are off. It would really suck to reassemble the engine and have a valve stick issue 5k later. Find out what machine shop the dealer uses as they may have the tools LR provided and they have experience with the product. If they do the heads in house then find a machine shop with a good reputation. I would listen to the top end of the engine to see if it has a loud ticking noise. If it does it will probably be the rocker arms. These are inexpensive even from the dealer and have to be removed anyway. May want to invest in that while it is apart
Oil cooler line - if you are even thinking about doing the heads yourself, i know you can install the oil cooler line. Perroneford is right, when the hoses let go these trucks have a bad habit of burning to the ground, esp defenders. since it connects to the front cover i would do it then. |
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