How do you change brake lines to upgr...

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Author Message   Blake Luse (Muddyrover) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 12:55 am:    I'm finally planning on buying brake lines since i'm going to get some equal balancer for my new tires. How do you install these lines. i don't know how to bleed the brake lines or anything so please take it from the top.   Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 01:20 am:    equal balancer? Is that an alternative to Sweet 'N Low? (Does it cause cancer to labratory animals but only in the state of California?)   M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 10:28 am:    blake, the abs really messes with my head, but go to your local doctor's office and get a large syringe, then get some rubber (silcone hose is best). clean the end of the bleeder nipple really good. remove your old brake lines. attach the new ones (one at a time is better, however, don't attach the upper connection of the brake line. attach the silcone hose to the syringe, remove the plunger and attach the other end of the hose to the bleeder valve. fill the syringe with brake fluid, replace the plunger and open the bleeder. use the syringe to fill the caliber and the new hose with fluid, repeat the process until you have non-aerated fluid coming from the hose (be careful not to push air into the caliber doing so completely defeats the whole purpose for oing this procedure). now heres the tricky part, maintain slight pressure on the syringe as you connect the upper end of the hose to brake system. its actually easier to do the swap over this way but i have done it many times before. good luck. mike w   Pugsly (Pugsly) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 10:59 am:    Are you going to get the KaleCo cross-drilled brake lines? http://www.kalecoauto.com/perf.htm   Danno (Danno) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 12:08 pm:    start with the rear lines 1st. similar to mike's way, but i went a bought a Mity-Vac for the job. here are some links: http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/bleed/bleed.html http://www.drivewerks.com/techarticles/mult_bleed_brakes/mult_bleed_brakes2.htm http://www.angelfire.com/nj3/terminalvalkocity/brakes.html http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint6.shtml   Danno (Danno) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 12:11 pm:    i think this one will be the most useful, since it's for rovers... http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Tech/Maintain/Bleeding_ABS_Brakes/bleeding_abs_brakes.html   Norm Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 01:20 pm:    Where can I get steel braided brake lines for a Disco 1? I've used these on a motorcycle and they've virtually eliminated any "mush" in the brakes. ---Norm   gp (Garrett) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 02:03 pm:    Expedition Exchange or RoverTym both sell them.   Danno (Danno) Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 02:04 pm:    EE, RTE, $G, RW, PP. check the resources...   perroneford Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 05:22 pm:    The ABS system on RRCs and Discos are different. The article on the Spanish Trail site is for RRCs. -P   Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Posted on Monday, January 27, 2003 - 08:06 am:    This is a really easy process! Requires none of the goodies the other fellows use (although I will admit the power bleeder is next on my list!). I tried to fill a caliper before installation, but found it to be of little to no benefit. The three biggest things to keep in mind when doing anything that will expose your brake system to the atmosphere is to keep it clean, to keep it clean and to keep it clean! Before doing anything, scrupulously clean around the hose ends the bleeder valve and the reservoir cap. Use a good brake cleaner and plenty of ventilation. Keep ignition sources away. Remove the hose, install the new hose. Start engine. Have assistant push brake pedal to floor. While the brake pedal is on the floor, open the bleeder until no air comes out, close bleeder. Refill reservoir, go to next caliper, repeat. Once you have all four done, go to the caliper futhest from the master cylinder (personally, I consider this to border on voodoo, but "Everybody says to do it this way"), and begin the procedure again,pedal down, bleeder open, release air/brake fluid, close bleeder, refill reservoir, go to next caliper. It is critical to have good communications with your assistant as releasing the brake pedal with the bleeder open is not a good thing. Brake lines are likely available at your local hydraulic shop, however, my experience is that unless you want something other than the pre-packaged lengths, EE has the best prices. I was at first concerned that the fittings are zinc plated, rather than stainless, but after speaking with a few folks who have them, they haven't seen any accelerated corrosion over the stock fittings. Peace, Paul   Blake Luse (Muddyrover) Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 12:45 am:    So basically you are "bleeding" the brake lines to get the air bubbles out and to have a constant flow of brake fluid. Also, you have a cup catching the brake fluid and then you pour the same fluid into the reservoir (that is located under the hood) right. This sounds simple correct me if i'm wrong   Robert Sublett (Rubisco98) Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 07:18 am:    I never have nor wouldn't pour the same fluid that comes out back into the system, I feel it's always good to use fresh fluid.   Scott (Scott_Bowden) Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 07:20 am:    Once you flush the fluid through the system throw it away! Brake fluid absorbs moisture, always use a newly opened fluid to pour into the resevoir. Buy a couple large bottles of Castrol GT/LMA brake fluid. You might end up needing both.