| Author |
Message |
    
Alan Yim (Alan)
| | Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2003 - 05:30 pm: | 
|
Keith,
Those are some sweeet sliders. How did you mount them? |
Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
| | Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2003 - 09:51 pm: |
|
The Sliders are made of 1.5"X3"X1/4" Rectangle tube which is welded to 3"X 2" angle with the short leg going under the sill/rocker panel. These are bolted through the sill using 3/8" bolts which are sleeved inside the sill with 1/2" tube so they can be tightened up very tight without crushing the sill. On the back side of the sill are 2 4"X1/4" plate's a long one in the back and a shorter one up front.. The angle and the 4" are tied together with 2"X1/4" flat bar that is welded together to make a solid U shape around the sill... It's pretty tough... I would have been fun to watch me tack weld the Recatangle tube in the curve along the bottom... The truck wasn't heavy enough to bend the tube... I cussed alot before i figured it out
Of course at the end of construction it was all glued and bolted for a rattle free product.
 |
Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
| | Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2003 - 09:53 pm: |
|
The Sliders are made of 1.5"X3"X1/4" Rectangle tube which is welded to 3"X 2" angle with the short leg going under the sill/rocker panel. These are bolted through the sill using 3/8" bolts which are sleeved inside the sill with 1/2" tube so they can be tightened up very tight without crushing the sill. On the back side of the sill are 2 4"X1/4" plate's a long one in the back and a shorter one up front.. The angle and the 4" are tied together with 2"X1/4" flat bar that is welded together to make a solid U shape around the sill... It's pretty tough... I would have been fun to watch me tack weld the Recatangle tube in the curve along the bottom... The truck wasn't heavy enough to bend the tube... I cussed alot before i figured it out
Of course at the end of construction it was all glued and bolted for a rattle free product.
|
Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
| | Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2003 - 09:58 pm: |
|
Heck that's not working i'll try a few more.
 |
Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
| | Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2003 - 10:00 pm: |
|
Another
|image{sl2} |
Mike Carino (Mikec)
| | Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 12:41 pm: |
|
Keith, I know this away from the slider subject, but what about your front driveshaft conversion? I'm looking for ease of doing it, price compared to buying aftermarket and if you think the DII shaft will hold up just as well as an aftermarket piece. Just looking for some insight. Thanks.
Mike |
Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
| | Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 04:36 pm: |
|
I really don't see the need for something big and gnarly for Disco use... Well that is until it breaks! The DC Dll driveshaft takes care of vibes but might only add a small amount of strength over the stock Dl shaft... The U joints are a bit smaller than a 1310 size which is stock on a Jeep.. My Trailer queen CJ7 runs a 3:1 T Case a Wide ratio T18 and deep gears in the axles on 36" tires Hook that up to a 375HP EFI 401. I've smoked all four up a boulder before chirping and hopping and never broke a 1310 Ujoint..
And that's on Leaf springs! The fact that the LR limits axle wrap completely really helps U Joint live longer!!! The down side of a DC Shaft is that "usually" they don't offer as much movement as a single u joint, but the front of a none 3 linked LR doesn't move all that much anyway. I think a Dll Shaft is a good Economical way to get rid of vibes while making a slight improvement in strength...As much as i like Tom Woods products i'm a cheap bastard!
Oh Yeah the Front flange from a Dll will bolt right on.. |
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