| Author | Message | ||
     Willard Lee New Member Username: Wlee69 Post Number: 34 Registered: 05-2002 |
I tried to use the "search" but it doesn't seem like its working right - but I do remember someone asking this questions before. I'm switching out my brake pads and the first wheel I did was sorta tough to get the wheel off - I just brute forced it off and then put some stuff on the hub centric part so that it won't happen again....but now the second wheel I can't get it off!!! Are there any tricks to this? I tried lowering the car down with the lug nuts on lose, and wheeling it back and forth a bit, but that didn't seem to do anything...there must be an easier way - the weirdest part is that I just got new tires about 2 months ago, and I can't believe the wheels would be stuck on so tight! My BMW has the same hub-centric type wheels, and they sorta get stuck but you just gotta give it a couple kicks and off they come! Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance, Will | ||
| Bob Foster New Member Username: Coppertop Post Number: 57 Registered: 12-2002 |
I had the same problem about a month ago. I sprayed WD40 on the hub (careful not to get ANY on the brake pads, also anti seize works better, but I didn't have any). I let it set for about about 30 minutes, jacked the truck up, put it on stands, and hit the tires from the inside with a sledge hammer. After a few good shots, I got on the outside and started working the rims loose. Pull on it until you feel it start to come loose in one spot. Rock the rim back and forth until it is moving pretty good. After a few minutes of this, it will eventuall "walk" itself to the end of the lugnuts. Not sure how to prevent this from happening.....Its a bitch to get those buggers off there. | ||
| Jason Bard (Jbard) New Member Username: Jbard Post Number: 68 Registered: 10-2002 |
I agree with Bob. Be careful when doing it but you'll have to whack 'em from the back side a couple of times with a sledge. | ||
| Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco) advanced member Username: Offroaddisco Post Number: 1352 Registered: 04-2002 |
Ditto what Jason said. I had to use the WD40 and BFH trick a few times. Pulling the tire didn't help but a few hits with a 3 lb hammer to the back worked like a champ. | ||
| Paul Long Unregistered guest |
When installing, use anti sieze between the hub and wheel. Don't use any on the studs or lug nuts. The dissimilar metals of wheel and hub touching causes corrosion of the two metals, connecting them quite securely. The shock of wacking it on the back breaks it loose. | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Advanced member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 90 Registered: 10-2002 |
Tow strap to the wheel, pull 90 degrees with another rover or simply soak it with WD40 and pull....will evaporate like brake cleaner, just not as fast. Use a wirebrush to clean the studs and hub then put a thin layer of anti-seize on all of it...it won't hurt anything. The only way it could possibly corrode with anti-seize is if too much was used so that it trapped water somehow...it doesn't take much, just a few dabs and smear around everywhere between contact areas. If the hub and lugs are severely corroded or rusted I would suggest wire brushing it (maybe liquid sandpaper too) and cleaning it with a paint prep or mineral spirits (or anything alchohol based) and spraying it with a rust preventive paint like Krylon "Rust Tough" or Rustoleum....mask the area of the rotor where the pads contact and the caliper and remember to cover the entire front of the vehicle with a sheet or something because you'll be amazed where overspray can end up. |
