| Author | Message | ||
     Jeffry Scott (Jeffry) Member Username: Jeffry Post Number: 50 Registered: 12-2002 |
I've noticed I have a slow leak originating where the brake fluid reservoir meets the master cylinder. Are the units separate and can the connection be either tightened or a new gasket put in? Or is the master cylinder in need of replacement? Or should I just ignore it and keep filling it up with Castrol (filled it to full about a month ago, now it is half way between max and min). thanks, jeff | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 173 Registered: 11-2002 |
can you see it drip or running out? or is the level just going down? | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior member Username: Leslie Post Number: 1783 Registered: 02-2002 |
FWIW, I've noticed that as the pads wear, the level in the reservoir drops.... it's not noticed at all at first, but then when they're getting close to needing to be changed, then the level begins to noticably drop.... I didn't realize this the first time, so I just topped it off, then ended up with the pads cutting into the rotors... as I compressed the pistons, the fluid overflowed out of the top of the reservoir (thus, I learned to not do that!).... Like Musky said, it's one thing if you really see the drip, but, if you're just seeing the level drop, you might need to check your pads... -L | ||
| Jeffry Scott (Jeffry) Member Username: Jeffry Post Number: 53 Registered: 12-2002 |
Thom, yes I can see wet originating from the point between the plastic reservoir and master cylinder. It is definitely coming from that point and oozing down onto the wheel well (I also noticed the paint bubbling or peeling from what I assume is reaction to the brake fluid.) | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 174 Registered: 11-2002 |
time for a new master cylinder  they arent repairable...they get bad seals and cause backpressure that pushed the resevoir up and causes them to leak. | ||
| Jeffry Scott (Jeffry) Member Username: Jeffry Post Number: 54 Registered: 12-2002 |
ouch. is Nathan probably the best source? | ||
| Jeffry Scott (Jeffry) Member Username: Jeffry Post Number: 55 Registered: 12-2002 |
Since it is a slow leak, how immediate is it to repair? I'll do it right away if it is a safety issue (like a chance the MC will go and I'll lose brakes), but if I can let it go a little bit that would be much better ... thanks, jeff | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 72 Registered: 10-2002 |
I believe I had this same prob and fixed it by replacing the reservior and seals. It was leaking pretty bad from softened up rubber seals between reservior and MC. Get new reservior and seals, remove old ones, and work in new seals completely until seated correctly (I carefully used popsicle stick). Then install new reservior by sideways twisting into seals mounted in MC. Make sure reservior is seated completely. Then fill with Castrol LMA and have fun bleeding. I believe this install is covered in workshop manual. Good luck- | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Member Username: Ron Post Number: 63 Registered: 04-2001 |
thepartsbin.com has a new MC cheap Ron | ||
| Jeffry Scott (Jeffry) Member Username: Jeffry Post Number: 56 Registered: 12-2002 |
I've looked through all the receipts since new and I don't see a MC replacement so I don't think I'll mess with the cheaper fix of a new reservoir and seals. I have the factory service manual, but what should I look for as potential problems in replacing the MC? Of course I'll look at the manual first but for people that have done it, it would be nice to identify potential problems first. I have read to use Castrol GT/LMA dot 3/4. While I'm doing this, is it worth upgrading to stainless steel brake lines? The ones on the truck (96) could be original, I don't really know. thanks, jeff | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 76 Registered: 10-2002 |
If set on new MC be sure to bench bleed. I use Castrol GT/LMA which is DOT 4 and have had good luck. If you plan on lifting then going to stainless steel extended lines makes sense. If not, then depends on whether lines are showing signs of wear, cracks, or bulging and would replace immediately (I probably would go with stainless). My 2cents |
