| Author | Message | ||
     Tom Bushey (Medora) New Member Username: Medora Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2003 |
My wife just bought a new 2003 Disco. The local dealer said there is no reason to have it rustproofed. Every other car I have bought new I have rustproofed (Ziebart) and have been happy with no signs of rust after 6-7 years of ownership and yearly renewal by Ziebart. I realize the Disco has aluminum and galvanized steel panels, but is this good enough to totally skip any additional rustproofing? | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 404 Registered: 10-2002 |
The body panels are aluminum, but I'm not aware of any galvanized steel panels. Rust proof that monkey! | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Member Username: Bri Post Number: 211 Registered: 08-2002 |
Why rust proof if it is aluminum? Isn't the roof steel? | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 406 Registered: 10-2002 |
And the doors. What I am suggesting is to rust proof the chassis, sills, undercarrage. All that stuff that is made of good 'ole steel. My 88 Range Rover got bit by the rust bug. The seat belt mounts in the rear wheel wells are prone to problems as well as the sills. If you live where there is salt, it will eat your Rover. | ||
| Alan Yim (Alan) Senior Member Username: Alan Post Number: 387 Registered: 09-2002 |
I think on 2003 Disco's (not sure about earlier D2s) the roof and door panels are galvanized steel. Also, aluminum isn't corrosion proof, just takes a lot longer to rust than steel because of its ability to provide a natural oxide barrier. But rust proofing the undercarriage isn't a bad idea although can get messy if you work on your own truck. Rust proofing the rest of the truck probably isn't necessary though. If you keep it clean from road salt and a thorough cleaning after getting off the trails, it should be ok. | ||
| Pete Stefano (Pete_s) New Member Username: Pete_s Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2003 |
All D2s have galvanized steel panels. I do it the hard way. I actually go undernearth with a bucket of fresh water and clean the thing, chassis, axles, links, outriggers, rods, etc. Very dirty and messy and your arms will become like a bodybuilder but its worth it. I live in New England where we get a lot of salt and dirt. Almost a year after owning a new car your gonna get rust somewhere but my hard work has paid off. Any place I get rust on the frame I take a wire brush to it , clean it off, and then stray it with flat black Rustoleum. Only problem with this is that it will flake off in time but I have no idea what else to do. I have found rubberized undercoating that I think I can use on the frame but what do you guys think about this. | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 409 Registered: 10-2002 |
My 88RRC was from PA, it had pretty good rust issues. Some things like the seat belt mounts I had repaired at the local welder. The surface rust, I too would go at with a wire brush, I would then coat with POR15, then cover with spray paint. Tough stuff, check their website. http://www.por15.com/ This spring, I plan on treating my 99D2 with the stuff too. I live in Albany, NY. Plenty of salt this year! | ||
| Pete Stefano (Pete_s) New Member Username: Pete_s Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hey John that Por15 looks like good stuff. I think I will fit some of that into my LR repair budget. LOL!!! | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 410 Registered: 10-2002 |
It's not cheap, try the starter kit and see if you like it. Now, I use the Metal Ready, and bought a six pack of the little cans. When you done, it creates a "ceramic" like finish on the steel. Just don't get it on your skin! It's not a budget, how can you budget for the thing. It's a slush fund... | ||
| Scott Scott (Scottoz) New Member Username: Scottoz Post Number: 12 Registered: 02-2003 |
Has anyone used an ERPS system on theirs? |
