| Author | Message | ||
     Discovery 1 Owner (D1_owner) New Member Username: D1_owner Post Number: 5 Registered: 02-2003 |
Anyone have any recommendations for replacement speakers for a 97 D1. I am looking for good, cost effective speakers. I am not sure of the proper size, depth, and impedance. Also, any ideas on the best way to remove the plastic trim on the A-pillar to access the tweeters. | ||
| BJ Turner (Wturner) Member Username: Wturner Post Number: 171 Registered: 02-2002 |
For the trim, just pull it off. May seem wrong at first, but that is the way to do it. Speakers are 4" diameter, I don't know depth. | ||
| Discovery 1 Owner (D1_owner) New Member Username: D1_owner Post Number: 6 Registered: 02-2003 |
BJ, Just yank the A=pillar trim straight off -- no small plastic tabs to worry about, etc. What about putting it back. Does it just snap back by pressing it straight in? | ||
| Leo P. Hallak (Leo_hallak) New Member Username: Leo_hallak Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2003 |
I have some Rockford Fosgates and I love them. But I redid the entire system. But I am sure they would sound good even with the stock amps and system.. Leo | ||
| Kevin Howell (Kevinhowell) New Member Username: Kevinhowell Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2003 |
mounting depth is extremely shallow in the doors up front. i had to go with some clarions (which sound very good), but i believe that there are a couple of others that'll fit, including alpine. you only have about 2" to play with or less, so most speakers are eliminated right there. for the rear, i went with infinity kappas, which sound fantastic. of course, i added a sub set-up that blows the rover's original away, but you should still notice a substantial difference once you upgrade. for stock amp, i'd stay with infinity because of their sensitivity and great sound. if you're juicing the amp up from stock, you might think about mbquarts. | ||
| Discovery 1 Owner (D1_owner) New Member Username: D1_owner Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2003 |
Kevin, Any recommendations for the A-pillar tweeters? Did you replace them? If so, what size, and any other insights into removing the trim. BJ Turner suggests just pulling them straight off. I am a little gunshy when it comes to plastic trim pieces -- haven broken many a tab in my lifetime. The Fosgates and Infinity's were on my list. I did consider MB Quarts but they seem to be hard to find. Any recommendations for where to find decent equipment on-line? | ||
| paul londrigan (Neversummer) Member Username: Neversummer Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2002 |
I have always used either Alpine or MB Quart. The Alpine stuff is great I had all alpine in my disco, and now again in my rangie. The Mb quart stuff is definatly superior, however more expensive. Those two companies as far as I am concerned are the best for the money you spend. | ||
| Prescottj (Prescottj) Senior Member Username: Prescottj Post Number: 299 Registered: 12-2002 |
Don't rule out boston accoustics they make some killer high-end 4 inch speakers | ||
| John Abrams (Jabra2) New Member Username: Jabra2 Post Number: 17 Registered: 02-2003 |
As far as most speakers being eliminated for the front, this is not true. After doing lots of research I recently bought some Infinity Kappa's online at Etronics.com. Everyone raves about the Kappa's, and at etronics they're a helluva deal. They also carry many other brands at the best prices I've seen anywhere. Anyways, the Kappas have huge magnets on them, so of course they wouldn't fit in the front doors initially but a Dremel tool made very short work of that. They sound wonderful...4 4"ers and 2 6"ers (to replace the sub). Much better bass response, especially after replacing the subwoofer speakers and keeping the stock crossover, and MUCH crisper highs and midrange as well. It of course won't match the punch of a bigger sub or subs, but then again it won't compromise any of what little cargo room we have in the D1 either. I'm still running the stock head unit with factory changer, and I don't think I'll upgrade that until it breaks since I get it really muddy from time to time. Sounds pretty good to me though, and the Kappas definitely kill the stock crappers! | ||
| Corey Shuman (One_bad_rover) Member Username: One_bad_rover Post Number: 80 Registered: 09-2002 |
Eclipse are great too, and run great off factory power, no modifications needed, they drop right in. pics are available in the photo gallery under my name!! Good Luck!!! | ||
| John N (John_tdi_aus) New Member Username: John_tdi_aus Post Number: 17 Registered: 05-2002 |
I recently changed the 4" for better quality same size but still missed a lot of bottom end. Last W/E fitted one of these http://osdn.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php/masterid=553707/ut=cb28848a34239 08 Went under the drivers seat and the difference is remarkable. Highly recommend it. John 97 D1 Tdi | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) Senior Member Username: Jason Post Number: 294 Registered: 04-2002 |
While replacing your stock speakers with aftermarket speakers will provide a much needed improvement, replacing the amps, and eventually the head unit should remain in your mind. While the factory amps are sufficient, even a modest aftermarket replacement amp blows them out of the water. I replaced mine in that order. First the speakers, I've got 4 4" Clarions and 2 6" Polks (not the greatest of speakers as compared to the brands mentioned, but they hold their own). Not happy with the stock amps, I replaced both the factory amp under the seat and the sub-amp in the rear door. I used a 4x50w amp (for the 2 rear 4" and 2 rear 6" speakers) and a 2x40w amp (for the fronts), locating both under the passenger seat. This is where it becomes difficult (and I suggest you consider this along with the last suggestion...). I had to locate the wires under the passenger seat which supply the factory amps with an audio signal. KEEP IN MIND THESE ARE LOW-LEVEL OUTPUTS!!! You will need to splice these leads into RCA jacks for the amp low-level inputs. You'll then need to locate the correct leads going to the speakers, as well as run a new set of leads from the amp under the seat to the speakers in the rear door (very easy to do). Okay, the last recommendation is to replace the head unit at the same time as the amps. Just run RCA patch cables from the head unit to the amps, eliminating the wiring nightmare under the seat. You'll still need to figure out which speaker leads go where, unless you plan to rewire that as well. I went with an Alpine head-unit with front, rear, and subwoofer pre-outs. This made it very simple to wire up the six-channels at the amps. Plan it out and take your time. The wiring and installation is not difficult (changing the head unit is very very easy...don't bother paying a shop to do it), but some parts may be time consuming. Have fun! | ||
| Scott Scott (Scottoz) New Member Username: Scottoz Post Number: 14 Registered: 02-2003 |
I have a D1 - sound is crap. I have a DII with upgraded LR sound system and stacker - it is very bloody good - very crisp, and can handle some base. Perhaps you could get them out of a wrecked one? Just a thought | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 268 Registered: 02-2002 |
My preference is with MB Quart or Diamond Audio speakers. Very clean and tight. I'm a big fan of Kicker subs, as well. | ||
| Discovery 1 Owner (D1_owner) New Member Username: D1_owner Post Number: 9 Registered: 02-2003 |
What about replacing the tweeters in the A-pillar? | ||
| Kevin Howell (Kevinhowell) New Member Username: Kevinhowell Post Number: 8 Registered: 02-2003 |
you're getting some great suggestions but nobody seems to be answering your questions, huh? lol! anyway, mine's a '94, and there are no separate tweeters. so, i can't help you there. if you go with the kappas, i'd leave them to cover the hole, but disconnect them. the kappas come with a crossover and get great highs anyway. i think you'll be fine just pulling the pillars, but use a flathead and pry more as opposed to just jerking them off. i hadn't thought of dremeling to make the kappas fit in the front. that sounds like a pretty good idea. just remember that if your magnet makes contact with the body of the door, they'll short out. if you're not into cutting up your disco, look at the infinity references for the front. i think they may fit as well, and they also sound great. | ||
| Corey Shuman (One_bad_rover) Member Username: One_bad_rover Post Number: 83 Registered: 09-2002 |
call me crazy but for the tweets in the a-pillar I just went with some new stock ones, you really dont need a hundred dollar speaker to reproduce such a small spectrum of sound. just my opinion though:D | ||
| Discovery 1 Owner (D1_owner) New Member Username: D1_owner Post Number: 10 Registered: 02-2003 |
Corey, I can empathize with your username (one_bad_rover). Maybe I should change mine to (another_bad_rover). BTW, what is your recommendation on removing the A-pillar trim. | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 269 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh yeah, and to remove the A-pillar trim, use a trim removal tool. It just pops off. I don't know about size, but my Diamond Audio M361 component tweeters fit in my 2001 D2 A-pillar trim just fine. | ||
| Yaroslav (Andr6761) New Member Username: Andr6761 Post Number: 29 Registered: 07-2002 |
definetly go with infinities... | ||
| John (Jroc) Member Username: Jroc Post Number: 73 Registered: 08-2002 |
On choosing a speaker to put in the front doors, keep in mind that you're going to want a speaker with a high sensitivity rating. What that means is, a speaker that doesn't require alot of power to drive. The lower the rating the more power it's gonna need. The speakers (and whole sound system for that matter) is a disgrace on the Disco. I ripped my whole system out and started from scratch. You don't have to do that, I'm just REALLY into music!!! Dollar for Dollar the best thing you can do for the sound in the disco is to do what Jason said and swap out the shitty speakers it came with and put in aftermarket speakers. Even cheap Aftermarkets are going to blow the doors off of the stock crappers!!! I wouldn't go high end here, cheap will work fine. Next swap out the amps (lol), those things SUCK!!! Spend money here! Don't skimp! Nothing that has the wattage on it in GIANT fucking numbers! US acoustics used to be my sleeper in this catagory. I say used to because I haven't bought cheap in a while. They probably still rock for the dollar!!! Avoid companies that also make big screen tv's and electric toothbrushes and shit. MTX, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, these are examples of good amp manufacturer's. Match your components, meaning if the amp you buy puts out 75 watts RMS (continuous) x 4 channels, your speakers are going to have to be able to handle a minimum of 60 or so watts RMS per channel. Try not to under or over power your speakers. Slightly over is not bad but try and keep it somewhat matched. That's usually why a good factory system sounds as good as it does with very little real power, everything is matched. Low power and very efficient speakers sounds great and isn't very expensive. You want bass, that costs money!!! LOL Good Luck and I hope this helped. I also hope I didn't offend anyone's favorite brand/s, and if you've had a bad experience with any of the brands I've recommeded, I'm sorry. And for the record I don't know it all, I'm no car audio genius. Just trying to share some knowledge about a topic I'm fairly well versed in. If we all do that D-web will continue to be the great fucking place it is! | ||
| Chris Brennan (Cdmbrennan) New Member Username: Cdmbrennan Post Number: 24 Registered: 01-2003 |
John N, What was involved in your install of that sub under the seat? How hard to hook up, etc... | ||
| Corey Shuman (One_bad_rover) Member Username: One_bad_rover Post Number: 84 Registered: 09-2002 |
On removing the a-pillars...be careful, thats all I can say, dont force em to much. They break easy, especially when they are 6 years old. I liked Jrocs comments, mostly, except I am going to stay with as much factory stuff as possible till it breaks, Im still running all of my factory amps and deck, granted I added an amp for the sub but my little disco rocks--hard, even with the windows up, and the whole set up, fiberglass sub enclosure, amp, wiring, speakers and all only ran me about 750. not too terribly bad. Most of that was labor on the fiberglass, the eclipse 4" 2ways were only 75 per pair. | ||
| Garret Curtis (Garret13) New Member Username: Garret13 Post Number: 14 Registered: 01-2003 |
I have Boston Acoustics speakers all around. I have two 8” Rockford Subs. I don’t like too much bass, so it is a perfect match. It sounds great all around. That is just my two cents. -- Garret Curtis | ||
| Discovery 1 Owner (D1_owner) New Member Username: D1_owner Post Number: 11 Registered: 02-2003 |
Thanks everyone for the great input. To summarize: 4" speakers in the front doors and rear pillars. The front speakers need to be pretty shallow, less than 2" I believe to fit without any mods. I don't know what the front door factory speakers are, but I believe adding a 2-way to the front doors should not be a problem -- but I don't think there is a separate high/low range crossover line for them. For the rear pillars, I think stock is a 2-way. For the rear door, I believe the original literature claimed that it had subwoofers. I don't think that is the case. There might be just a low-range crossover line but with regular 6.25" woofers. Does anyone know. | ||
| Kevin Howell (Kevinhowell) New Member Username: Kevinhowell Post Number: 10 Registered: 02-2003 |
"On choosing a speaker to put in the front doors, keep in mind that you're going to want a speaker with a high sensitivity rating." actually, i'd think that statement would be more true of the rear pillars than the front doors. but if the dude uses any of the amps you suggested, then it doesn't make a shit anyway. nothing sounds better than mb quarts, imho, and their efficiency is down in the mid 80's. it's all about power, man. like john said, don't skimp on the amps. chris: installing the subs under the seat is easy, sorta. i went with the kenwood version of the clarion posted earlier. don't know how the sizes compare, but i had to make a few mods. pulling the seat out is easy. then, you have to remove those brackets that normally hold the cd changer or amp to gain more mounting height. mine "almost" fit after that. i then had to take my sawzall and cut a bit on the front tabs where the legs of your seat meet the bottom plate. presto! just a matter of running wires then. mine kick out plenty of bass losing no cargo space, and it's tight. if you're into (c)rap or hip hip or some other pu$$y music (sorry for the bias) where all that matters is a loud, constant thump that permeates the disco four vehicles behind you on the trail, then you're not going to be happy. good luck. | ||
| Chris Brennan (Cdmbrennan) New Member Username: Cdmbrennan Post Number: 28 Registered: 01-2003 |
thanks for the info, Kevin. The Clarion or Kenwood sub seems the way to go. | ||
| Kyle Porter (Higgins) New Member Username: Higgins Post Number: 9 Registered: 03-2003 |
Hey I want in on this action too! I wouldn't go with the MB quarts as I had them in my last car but they're WAY to deep to fit in the front door (they even need a spacer to get in the rear panels!) I eventually put in some 5" JL audio seperates (Canadian) with the tweeter flush mounted next to them. Sounds good but with two 12" Rockford Fosgates in the back it doesn't seem to matter what's in the front sometimes  Only negative is that it makes more work to get things back to normal for selling and your knees bash in the speaker grills from time to time. But if you're not gonna get subs then you want the biggest speakers you can fit in your doors and/or rear panels to compensate for the bass. Have fun |
