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Ned Connolly (Roverned)
Member
Username: Roverned

Post Number: 51
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Monday, February 24, 2003 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know this thread has been covered to death but I wasn't smart enough to print it out last time it was being discussed...

Anyone want to walk me through everything needed to remove a DI's stock lines/install extended ones? (These are the lines RTE sells.)

Thanks in advance.
 

Ned Connolly (Roverned)
Member
Username: Roverned

Post Number: 52
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, February 28, 2003 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bueller?
 

Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly)
Member
Username: L_tilly

Post Number: 72
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, February 28, 2003 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

When I used the "search" feature, this is the thread I think you had seen before:
../17/3528.html>

It sounds like a pretty basic process based on that, but we know how "interresting" some of the most basic jobs can get. :-) As an FYI, I was recently talking with a friend of mine up here who builds and drives a race car in local competitions. He has an interrest in what I've been doing w/ my Disco and I was telling him I wanted to put in the steel brake lines for some peace of mind. He advised me to use a flair wrench on the fittings, since he has seen a number of instances of brake line connectors stripping and leading to a real PIA.

If you find any "gotchas" when you do it, please post them up here. Good luck and hope it goes well!!

-Lawrence
 

Ned Connolly (Roverned)
Member
Username: Roverned

Post Number: 53
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, February 28, 2003 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Lawrence-

Thanks for the advice on using a flair wrench. (Don't know what that is, but I'm sure the boys at the auto parts place do...

My problem is with "bleeding" the brakes. More specifically, I don't know how the hell to do it.

Anyone?
 

Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly)
Member
Username: L_tilly

Post Number: 79
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, February 28, 2003 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

A flair wrench covers a lot more of the bolt head than does a normal open-ended box style wrench. It gives you a grip about mid-way between a box-style and a full socket.

RE: bleeding: This has been discussed pretty well about a month or so ago. If you use the search for "bleeding brake" you'll probably find some good info. Some people posted methods using special bleeding tools, while others discribed how to do it with a second person to mash the brake pedal when you need them to.

-Lawrence
 

Ned Connolly (Roverned)
Member
Username: Roverned

Post Number: 55
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, February 28, 2003 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks.
 

Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
Member
Username: Electriceel

Post Number: 46
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, February 28, 2003 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The real bitch is the brake valve at the rear(below the a-arm, 2 in 2 out). It's pretty common for the threads to back out of here. You might want to check around to see if you can get another in a hurry in case of emergency. I had to wait 3 weeks for one to come over from the UK. Good luck.

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