| Author | Message | ||
     Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) New Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2003 |
I'm wondering if anyone has had a leaking problem with the rear diff, 96 Disco. I recently noticed a leak on the garage floor about the size of a quarter under the rear diff. I cleaned it up & saw that it was leaking right were the yoke enters the diff. I remembered that I did some water wading not too long ago so I changed the fluid which was fine w/ no water infiltration. Does anyone have any suggestions about this leak. I have no problem pulling off a drive shaft or axles, but this is still an open diff on a daily driver & I don't feel comfortable tearing the rear end apart. | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 506 Registered: 05-2002 |
I've got the same thing. Suspect the pinion seal (sits forward of the pinion bearing and obviously is meant to stop stuff from going out/in the back of the dif). They cost a whole $3. Now getting it on there.... pwc | ||
| Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) New Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 3 Registered: 02-2003 |
Peter that is kind of what I suspected...now are you planning on replacing this yourself?? Have you spoken with a dealership or a mechanic?? I am assuming that this is more of a nuisance than actually doing any hard to the rear end. Do you think this is a job that can be done at home??? Joe | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 658 Registered: 02-2002 |
check your breather line first before replacing pinion seal - blocked breather will force fluid out other places - pinion seal, axles seals Bill | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 79 Registered: 02-2003 |
it's the pinion seal, it's been leaking for about two years now. unless it's gotten worse i wouldn't mess with it  rd | ||
| Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) New Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 4 Registered: 02-2003 |
Cool, has anyone attempted to replace one of these?? I guess just change the diff fluid once a season?? I would love to take the cardboard off the garage floor...do you think I can use silicone or any type of liquid gasket just to prevent the leaking. | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 507 Registered: 05-2002 |
Too late Rob, I've already started. Of course, I then found I don't have the right size socket for the pinion flange nut. Anyone know the size before I run to the store? And Bill's right about checking the tube first. I just extended mine and checked in the process and it was fine. But check that first since it's hecka easier. pwc | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 508 Registered: 05-2002 |
This nut right here:  (Damn....320x240.....what kind of useful pics can you get with that) pwc | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 80 Registered: 02-2003 |
see if the lug wrench will fit. rd | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 511 Registered: 05-2002 |
Nope. The lug is 1 1/8". This is bigger than 13/16" and smaller than 1 1/16th. Although someone just told me it's 24mm. Ah hell, I'll just buy a bunch. pwc | ||
| Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) New Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 5 Registered: 02-2003 |
Peter that's awesome...I think that now I am inspired to replace it. I am tired of this leak, believe it or not nothing else leaks (on the ground at least). Please let me know how difficult this project is...I don't think that it seems that involved but you never know. The drive shaft comes off easily right?? I haven't pulled mine off before. I'll check the breather as soon as I get home from work. Joe | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 81 Registered: 02-2003 |
use your teeth rd | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 512 Registered: 05-2002 |
Noof. Daf difin't worf eifer. It's 24mm. pwc | ||
| Bruce Mac Lennan (Bmac66) Member Username: Bmac66 Post Number: 21 Registered: 06-2002 |
Check the surface the seal runs on. If its worn or burred, get a speedy sleeve put on it else the new seal will leak too. The nut you remove/replace applies preload to the pinion bearing ( like a hub nut ) - only do it up so there no slop in the pinion assy. Bruce. | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 513 Registered: 05-2002 |
All back in place. We'll see how it goes. Joseph, it's pretty straight forward. Some force is needed and you might need to make a tool. Basically you have to hold the flange in place while you turn the nut (other wise the whole dif turns and wheels move). If you have the manual it shows a special tool, but you should be able ot take a piece of metal and drill a couple of holes to get the same effect. Also had to wedge a screwdriver in there to pop the old seal out. I checked the surfaces and it didn't seem like there was much out of place. The manual says to tighten the nut back to 100ft/lbs. pwc PS I'll have a couple more pictures later. | ||
| Joey Cox (Joey_cox) New Member Username: Joey_cox Post Number: 12 Registered: 02-2003 |
Depending on how the differential is set up, it may not be worth it to jump into this project. When you change the pinion seal, you should also replace the crush sleeve and pinion nut. If you ignore replacing these parts, you may run into problems with premature ring & pinion wear due to incorrect backlash. Like Peter said, its also very important to tighten the nut to 100 ft/lbs. no more, no less. If the leak is not too bad, I would let it go until you plan on doing more work on the differential (lockers,ring & pinion, etc.) Joey | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 43 Registered: 11-2002 |
Joey , there is no crush sleeve... Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| Joey Cox (Joey_cox) New Member Username: Joey_cox Post Number: 13 Registered: 02-2003 |
No crush sleeve? What does the pinion nut lock down on? On the differentials that I have worked on the gear preload is set with a crush sleeve. If this isn't the case on a Rover, I would be interested in finding out how the preload is adjusted. Joey | ||
| john baker (Johnb) New Member Username: Johnb Post Number: 16 Registered: 11-2002 |
i believe shims set the bearing preload. | ||
| Joey Cox (Joey_cox) New Member Username: Joey_cox Post Number: 15 Registered: 02-2003 |
Shims set the backlash and gear mesh. The preload has to be adjusted otherwise. | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 516 Registered: 05-2002 |
Joey, what if it was that other work (locker) that caused the leak. I'm just assuming here Rob. Yeah, if it's not bad it's more work than you need. I just got fed up with it and the PS connections dribllin' so much. Hopefully now I'll only have one leak (rear main seal). The nut tightens onto a big ass washer (not mentioned in the manual). That sits against the flange. The flange has a sleeve that sits on the splines of the pinion and goes into the seal. More fun with pictures  Old Seal  No Seal  New Seal pwc | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 517 Registered: 05-2002 |
And a clearer picture of the Flange, Nut and BAW (Big Ass Washer)  | ||
| Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) New Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 6 Registered: 02-2003 |
Peter very cool. Let me know after you've filled it up with oil & driven around for a while if it is still leaking. Seems like alot of work, but I am seriously getting tired of this leak. It does seem to be getting a little worse. I'm still going to check the breather tomorrow night. | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 520 Registered: 05-2002 |
Joseph, You don't have to drain oil to do it. Well, not really. Depending on your level and how the truck is sitting, not much will come out because of where it sits compared to the housing. But if you haven't changed it in a while, I'd do it all at the same time. I ended up getting mine from xkslandrover.com . It's part numbr 8 on this page http://www.xkslandrover.com/pages1/drive.html good luck! pwc | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 44 Registered: 11-2002 |
No Joey , you are thinking corperate rears and Danas and shit. Backlash is set by large spanner nuts and pinions height and preload is set by shims. Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| Joey Cox (Joey_cox) New Member Username: Joey_cox Post Number: 16 Registered: 02-2003 |
Kyle, I just found a picture of a LR differential. You are correct about the backlash and preload. I remembered the crush sleeves from a Dana 35 and also in a GM 10 bolt. I did however change the ring and pinion in a '51 Chevrolet pickup - it had the same setup as the Land Rover (spanners nuts and shims. Joey | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 45 Registered: 11-2002 |
Well , yeah , I have setup enough of them that I should have it correct..... Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| Blue (Bluegill) Senior Member Username: Bluegill Post Number: 1948 Registered: 02-2002 |
http://www.discoweb.org/rotoconversion/index.htm Make sure you properly seat the pinion seal. I still have a glacier-slow leak out of mine, but I am reluctant to fix it as the grayish hue of the diff oil contrasts beautifully with the earthy tones of the motor oil on the garage floor. When I hose down the floor, the rainbow pattern is simply breathtaking. Land Rover...so much to offer. oh, and Kyle...what was the pinion nut torque spec wisdom you imposed on me? "Tighten the dog shit out of it?" | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 47 Registered: 11-2002 |
Yes , that was exactly it..... They gotta be as tight as you can get em... Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 523 Registered: 05-2002 |
I only got cow shit out of mine when tighened. Is this too tight or nit tight enough? Seals been on a day and hasn't seemed to leak. Fingers crossed. Joseph, Notice in Kyle's write up Blue pointed to the long bar with a bolt on it. This is the tool I mentioned (well, not the exact one) and you need to come up with something like that. pwc | ||
| Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) New Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2003 |
Well I'm gonna try it. I think I can whip a tool up or maybe put the back end on the ground. Did you spread grease on the seal before sticking it back on? If I'm going to do it I'm going to make sure that sucker is never leaking again. Do you think hitting it with my impact driver would be too much torque?? More than dog shit?? Thanks for all your help. Joeb | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 49 Registered: 11-2002 |
I dont reccoment impacing it because of damage that may be caused to the teeth on the ring or pinion gears. I spin them on and off with an impact but I also take the slop out of the gears before pulling the trigger. I think most impacts have a dog shit setting on them........ Mine does anyway Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| isaac fain (Searover) Member Username: Searover Post Number: 59 Registered: 05-2002 |
peter - for the sake of Bell Square's valet floor, I hope to hell the cow shit was strong enough. wouldn't want the attendant to be tracking oil onto the lambs wool mats of all those shiny rr's down there . . . | ||
| Andrew Vick (Afv) New Member Username: Afv Post Number: 12 Registered: 02-2002 |
I feel a "how the "f" do you get the centralizing peg off" conversation coming on real soon. | ||
| Peter Carey (Pcarey) Senior Member Username: Pcarey Post Number: 526 Registered: 05-2002 |
Centralizing peg?? Huh, what?? Ohhhhhh....you still have the rotoflex :-) Three days later and no leaks yet. Yeah! And Isaac, I've still got one leak good enough to mess up the fine, fine vallet parking at Bell Square. But then again, I don't fit in the garage. pwc |
