| Author | Message | ||
     Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 77 Registered: 02-2002 |
You helped give me some info on removing the centering peg for a U-Joint conversion. I'm diving back into the project this weekend and hope to finish it up ASAP. So... 1. Alex mentioned that the torch method will help melt the "glue" holding the peg on. When I reattach the peg, what do you use as the glue? I didn't find any mention of it in earlier posts or the tech writeup. 2. Where should I apply lubrication during the reinstall? I know to fill up the shaft via the nipples after everything's in place, but I imagine I also need to put grease into the new flange on the diff pumpkin. Is that correct? If so, where and how much? Anything else I may be forgetting to ask? As always, advTHANKSance!!! Lawrence [email protected] 96 Disco "Beowulf" NH, USA | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1063 Registered: 02-2002 |
Lawrence: I'm neither of those folks, but I have an answer for you. 1: You won't need the centering peg if you replace the roto-flex with Universals. You will bolt the four legged flange in place of the three legged flange. In fact, putting the peg back will prohibit you from bolting the driveshaft into place as it will interfere. 2:There is no way to grease the flange, nor a reason to. The flange is rigidly affixed to the pinion, the driveshaft flange bolts to this. As for greasing the shaft, I assume you are talking about the splined sliding joint-just put enogh grease in to gently bulge the rubber cap on the shaft. Grease the individual u-joints until the grease just begins to ooze out of the end caps. Paul | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 78 Registered: 02-2002 |
Thanks Paul. After I read your post I took another look at the tech writeup and realized my confusion w/ the peg issue. In some of the pics on the reinstall it looked like the peg was there, but it was something else. That also makes me feel better about using various methods of removing the peg...I was afraid I had to maintain it's integrity and didn't want to take channel locks to it. Concerning the greasing...what I was worried about was if I need to add grease at this stage before putting the new flange on (stole the pic from the tech section):  Also, I'm going to have to run down stairs and take a second look at the shaft to make sure I know where you mean re: the splined sliding joint. -Lawrence | ||
| Blue (Bluegill) Senior Member Username: Bluegill Post Number: 1959 Registered: 02-2002 |
ditto what Paul said  damn business meetings getting in the way of dweb... let's see if I can upload a pic of the sliding splined joint (if you want more or bigger pics email me):  | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1064 Registered: 02-2002 |
You let work get in the way? Paul | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1065 Registered: 02-2002 |
Lawrence: This time it is my chance to not answer your question! You do not need to grease the pinion. The area you have pictured will be bathed in gear oil when you refill the axle housing with 90 wt. <homer> 90 wt. yummmmmm<homer> Peace, Paul | ||
| Alex Cabrera (Alexcabrera) Member Username: Alexcabrera Post Number: 98 Registered: 12-2002 |
Doh! Was away sinking my Disco. LOL. Just kidding. I got some help from Bill @ GBR. I believe he has a kit to convert from Roto to U-joint. It includes the spacer for the flange. It also includes the new oil seal and dust shield. You can get it from him for under 100 IIRC. There is another vendor but I can't remember who it is. Atlantic British? Rovers North? The picture you posted should include the spacer then the flange then the nut. I would put a new oil seal so that you won't have to do the same job in a few months. (repetitive) Bolts 3/8 by 24 nylocks and your in business..... BTW.. Napa has the U-joints .. #344. Cheaper than dealer.. same quality. Alex Cabrera | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 81 Registered: 02-2002 |
I actually ordered a full kit from AB. They had a sale price of about $350 for the u-joint shaft, flange, spacer, etc. I had to replace my shaft anyway due to damage when the roto went, and the best price I could find for a roto-style shaft alone was $360...that's why I decided to take the plunge. AB's kit looks complete down to new washers and was on my door in less than 48 hours after making the call. -Lawrence | ||
| Blue (Bluegill) Senior Member Username: Bluegill Post Number: 1971 Registered: 02-2002 |
fine call on the AB kit |
