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Alan Stuart (Alan_s)
New Member Username: Alan_s
Post Number: 1 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 04:41 pm: |
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Coming out of hybernation/lurk mode for some help. My 97 D1 pulls to the left when brakes are applied. Here are the facts--I've tried almost all I know to do: Disco tracks straight without brakes applied. When brakes applied, there is a distinct pull to the left and gets more servere the harder they are applied and the faster I am going--to the point of being dangerous at speed with sudden braking. When brakes released, it tracks straight again. This happens before ABS kicks in. Rotors, pads replaced. Also new SS lines installed and front calipers rebuilt in attempt to correct problem (they appeared working fine before rebuilding). System has been bled twice; once power bled and once manually. Brake fluid has also been flushed and replaced. The problem started JUST before I replaced pads and rotors and the rest. Left front pads showed no more noticeable wear than the right ones. When read with a temp sensor after driving around the block the left side front showed 8 degrees higher than the right. Disco has 3 (at least) inch lift, RTE castor corrected front radius arms. All suspension bits are tight and seem to be in good working order. front tires have been swapped side to side--still pulls to left when braking. Any help from you gurus out there? Thanks, Alan Stuart
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Blue (Bluegill)
Senior Member Username: Bluegill
Post Number: 2002 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 05:25 pm: |
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sway bars on or off? what do your steering/suspension bushings looks like? castor may also not be totally "corrected" may just be a fact of life with 3" lifted Disco |
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Alan Stuart (Alan_s)
New Member Username: Alan_s
Post Number: 2 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 05:53 pm: |
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"sway bars on or off?" Off. "what do your steering/suspension bushings looks like?" Recently replaced within last year and/or good shape. "may just be a fact of life with 3" lifted Disco" Thought of that, but it's pretty severe and just recently started (long after lift was put on, etc). Thanks for the ideas, keep them coming. Alan Stuart
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Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor
Post Number: 128 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 05:57 pm: |
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tire pressure? ... i know it's a long shot rd |
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Blue (Bluegill)
Senior Member Username: Bluegill
Post Number: 2005 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 05:58 pm: |
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I had severe brake pull due to leaking caliper (brake fluid on rotor), but it sounds like you took care of that with caliper rebuild, new rotors, & new pads. Are you seeing any leakage from the front right caliper? Any leakage from front right hub or swivel ball? Any dogs leaking on that front right wheel? |
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Alan Stuart (Alan_s)
New Member Username: Alan_s
Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 06:05 pm: |
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Rob, Tire pressure checked and equal. Blue, No leaks, dogs or other wise, even before the rebuild. Rotors are clean. Alan |
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Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle)
Moderator Username: Kyle
Post Number: 65 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 06:14 pm: |
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Your symptom definately screems bad brake hose or caliper. I have had rear ones make them pull pretty bad as well. The part that sucks here is that its difficult to find. I would get it up on jacks and pull all four wheels. Then inspect the pads and see if there isnt some wearing a little more then others. Then your problem is probably going to be on the opposite side. Kyle "Blow me"
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Alan Stuart (Alan_s)
New Member Username: Alan_s
Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 06:38 pm: |
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"Your symptom definately screems bad brake hose or caliper. I have had rear ones make them pull pretty bad as well." I replaced all hoses thinking the same thing (I needed those sexy SS hoses anyway) after all else failed. I have not rebuilt the rear calipers because the pistons seem to be working fine, and because the front ones also seemed to be working fine before the rebuild, and didn't change after the rebuild. I guess I'll try the rear next, but I have my doubts. On loose gravel the left front acts like it's grabbing just before the ABS kicks in. The slightly higher temp of the left front would also bear this out. Could it be that the caliper rebuild job wasn't done right?....Naaa! I'll keep you all posted on what I find if you're interested. Alan |
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Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle)
Moderator Username: Kyle
Post Number: 68 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 06:43 pm: |
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Well , if the pistons werent gauled up and are free moving then I would have to move on up to the proportioning valve. I have seen them go bad in other makes but none on a rover. Its a possibility... And yeah , I would like to know what it ends up being... Frame ears and everything are good ? Have you dropped some strings to see if everything is in line ? Kyle "Blow me"
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Paul D. Morgan (V22guy)
Senior Member Username: V22guy
Post Number: 1270 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 07:01 pm: |
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Hey Kyle, If Alan has done all this work replacing everything brake related; Do you think it could be something as simple as a bleed requirement? Air and hydro fluid don't mix. Thinking aloud....
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Alan Stuart (Alan_s)
New Member Username: Alan_s
Post Number: 5 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 07:01 pm: |
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Kyle, Do you mean the ABS modulator, or the smaller valve before that? I think the manual calls it something else, but can't remember what since I don't have it it front of me. Also, doesn't that regulate just the front to rear pressure, and not side to side? I checked with the dealer and was told "oh, no they never fail" Maybe, I should have replaced that first....<grin> Sorry to take up so much space here, but I've spent too much time and money already swapping parts to no avail. Alan |
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Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle)
Moderator Username: Kyle
Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 07:48 pm: |
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Alan , this is what the space is for..... Actually , I hope not too many read this but this is a good time for Ron to speak up. He does parts in PA I think and would have better info on the offending part. I wouldnt buy it new but rather find an old one from the site here. Has to be someone with a wrecked one around. In fact!! Get ahold of John at RTE and ask him if his buddy still has those wrecked ones. I am not sure of the years but it might be worth a shot. Proportioning vales typically never do side to side but rather opposing front to rear corners. Its a shot. And Paul , Alan has been around the block awhile and I am taking for granted that he bled the real well. In fact I am quite sure he did before spending all that cash.. Kyle "Blow me"
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Paul D. Morgan (V22guy)
Senior Member Username: V22guy
Post Number: 1272 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 08:27 pm: |
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Well Okay then. I'll enjoy a nice glass of shut the fuck up. |
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Alan Stuart (Alan_s)
New Member Username: Alan_s
Post Number: 8 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Friday, March 07, 2003 - 04:20 pm: |
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"I'll enjoy a nice glass of...." Paul, No problem. Actually, you're not that far off. I think I bled the lines okay, but to be sure, I took it by and had it power bled (got to get me one of those). It still pulls, but seems slightly less severe, and it was worth a shot. I'll move on up to the porportioning valve next that Kyle mentioned. Alan
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Greg Hirst (Gregh)
Member Username: Gregh
Post Number: 92 Registered: 10-2002
| Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 03:04 am: |
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Kind of a long shot but any chance of crap lodging in caliper (past bleed valve but before reaching piston?) This would allow piston to move freely but not allow full brake pressure to be applied. It could be missed even in a rebuild unless caliper split and thoroughly cleaned. Has vehicle been bled routinely? Just an idea... |
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thom mathie (Muskyman)
Senior Member Username: Muskyman
Post Number: 188 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 05:14 am: |
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Have you checked the 4 bushings (2 each) in the front radius arms under the axle? mine had a BAD pull and they were the culprit.
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Ron Brown (Ron)
Member Username: Ron
Post Number: 124 Registered: 04-2001
| Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 10:58 pm: |
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I would be leaning toward a caliper. Did you rebuild it or someone else? Rebuilds generally suck, bad luck with them, have to go new or rebuild it yourself so you know its good. I am not sure how the MC and proportion system works in a Disco I. It is concievable that if one of the two circuits was weaker than the other it would pull (I am assuming it is set up LF/RR and RF/LR but I will have to check on Monday). I know on a D90 or early RR it is a pressure reducing valve for the rear brakes not a proportioning valve. There are valves inside the ABS modulator which in theory could stick closed causing your issue but I have never seen a modulator fail like that. My first course of action would be to put it on four jack stands and see if you are getting brakes on 4 wheels and see if you can acertain how much pressure you are getting by trying to turn each wheel. Ron |
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Tbow (Tbow)
Member Username: Tbow
Post Number: 65 Registered: 12-2002
| Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 11:30 pm: |
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Here's a long shot. Are you using kevlar or carbon-metallic pads?? You might want to try swapping the pads left to right and right to left. If you are using kevlar or carbon matallic pads, one could be harder than the other and cause it to pull. I had that happen to my truck and I swapped the pads and the brakes pulled the other way. I took the pads back and got just regular semi-matallic pads and worked just fine. |