| Author | Message | ||
     Tommy (Tommy) New Member Username: Tommy Post Number: 57 Registered: 08-2002 |
My 96 D1 with 117k was probably abused as a child by its' previous parents. My mechanic says his valves are all carbed up and I'd be better off putting him to sleep or considering a transplant. Anybody have any miracle recovery stories using BG44k or performing a valve job in their garage? Any other input??? | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 685 Registered: 02-2002 |
In the archives there is a really good thread about using a marine engine top end/valve cleaner. It sounded well founded and promising, but I haven't had the need to try it. Search it out and give it a try. BTW - your mechanic saying the engine is terminal is a bit silly - even if you have to rebuild the top end, it won't go over $500 if you do it your self. Bill | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 465 Registered: 10-2002 |
I replaced the head gaskets on my 88RRC in my garage, but you would need to take the valves to a local machine shop to have them ground and checked. No miracles available in a bottle! But, it's doable by decent shade tree. | ||
| Tommy (Tommy) Member Username: Tommy Post Number: 59 Registered: 08-2002 |
Thanks for yall's advice. My mechanic said I'd be better off in the long run with a swap. In his opinion a LR with bad carbed valves probably has other unforseen internal problems like a worn cam shaft. He is more of a BMW/Porsche mechanic than a LR mechanic. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 687 Registered: 02-2002 |
117K is not that much on these. Yes, the cams do wear, but that in itself is not a terminal problem- a bit performance robbing maybe, but not a reason to replace the engine. If you're really concerned with the bottom end condition, drop the pan and a cap or two and look at bearing condition there. Plenty of guys on this board with much more than 117K, so try the head work first. (also have valve guides shortened when heads are rebuilt - this will solve some of the fouling issue). Personally, I'd try the marine engine trick first, and if that fails - get the heads rebuilt and put her back together. Bill | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 52 Registered: 11-2002 |
I have used a piece of extra vacuum line that I attached to the fitting at the top of the plenum near the opening (I think its the same on Discos). Drop the other end into some Sea Foam (fantastic for de-carboning get at Napa) or regular water and let it suck in the can or about 12 oz water. Turn the throttle cable adjuster so that you get enough rpms to have positive suction. Do this on a hot engine. The fluid - SeaFoam, water, carb cleaner, BG44 whatever will remove carbon mostly by shattering it due to the cold fluid vs hot carbon deposits. I have taken off the exhaust manifold after doing this and the things are completely clear of carbon deposits, including the top of the y-pipes after treatment. | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 466 Registered: 10-2002 |
I would agree with Bill, I wouldn't jump at replacing the entire engine just yet. Do the valves and check the cam, drop the pan and check for wear. You maybe prematurely replacing the short block. | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 98 Registered: 10-2002 |
I have used the sea foam, and it did calm the idle down a bit, it is designed to decarbonize the intake,cylinders, and exaust valves, is is safe for the cats and ox senser, but not the maf senser, and if you follow the directions on the can it will stink like holy heck, so check the wind direction first, and do this outside!!! |
