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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Range Rover- Technical » Archive through March 19, 2003 » Leaking differential « Previous Next »

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Jeffrey DelVecchio (Jeffreydv)
New Member
Username: Jeffreydv

Post Number: 12
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

While I was installing my new springs today on my 1989 RRC, I noticed that what I thought was a leaking pinion seal turns out to be a leaking differential. It seems that the rear differential housing has rusted to the point of leaking fluid. It is leaking where a differential guard would go so I was thinking of cleaning the housing, coating it with rubberized undercoating, and installing a differential guard. Has anyone had a similar experience? I really do not want to replace the rear end. Thanks, Jeff.
 

Greg Hirst (Gregh)
Member
Username: Gregh

Post Number: 93
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Where is it leaking from exactly? Is it due to damaged drain plug? If so, replace plug and use hylomar (on occasion I've used liquid teflon sealant). If leaking from hole from damage try welding. Or is it leaking from where third member attaches to housing?
 

Ozzie Silvera (Ozzie)
Member
Username: Ozzie

Post Number: 44
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2003 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

A crazy offroading/Mudding trip a couple of years ago blew my front diff sending the locating pin thru My housing as well as breaking both front axles and one rear axle. So after replacing the rear broken axle, and being in 2 wheel drive for a few weeks I took the truck with an empty front casing to get welded, that took like 10 minutes from the outside and I had a true trac and 2 new D90 24 spline axles put in. 2 years later ( last weekend) the weld failed, it started to leak, very little. I like to call it a 2-3 month leak. Well we tried welding it from the outside with the diff in but without any fluid. The Weld started to crack everytime we welded it because the remnant oil in the casing would cool the inside faster than the outside. The way we did it was to empty out the front casing, clean it very well with brake cleaner, dry it out completely and then weld it all from the inside and then re-enforce it from the outside. That took all afternoon since little pinholes would pop up after cooling, Finally we got it right. The Welder says My roof will rot away before that weld breaks again. I hope he's right.

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