| Author | Message | ||
     John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 472 Registered: 10-2002 |
Are any of you sick enough to own both a Rover and MG? I had a '78 Midget in High School and lately my eye has started to wander... I just saw a 67 AH Sprite in the paper... Anyone know of good websites or other informaton? Talk me out of this... -John | ||
| Bryan Crosby (Bcroz) Member Username: Bcroz Post Number: 45 Registered: 03-2002 |
Yes, owning a British car is a sickness. It's addictive and groups like DiscoWeb are the only support there is (Hi, my name is Bryan and I've been addicted to British cars for a decade). We are gluttons for punishment. In addition to two Rovers (mine a 95 and my wifes a 97) I own a 79 MGB. This is my second MG (I redid a 73 Midget). you don't need to be talked out of it. Buy it. I am salivating over warmer weather (it's 12 outside right now) so I can get my MG out of storage.  | ||
| Don Collins (Donc) Member Username: Donc Post Number: 84 Registered: 04-2002 |
John start with www.team.net and sign up for the forum for MG's or AH's. It is a great place to start to get info and what things to watch out for. If you go for a MG try www.properMG.com for parts. They are usually 10-20% lower then Victoria British and Moss Motors. Bryan do you have that lowered? Looks like it is down to chrome bumper height. Having both in the garage can be fun. Just wait until both of them fall under the curse of Lucas in a week.=-) | ||
| Bryan Crosby (Bcroz) Member Username: Bcroz Post Number: 46 Registered: 03-2002 |
Don, nope, it's not lowered. In fact some of the stuff done by the previous owner is non stock and as soon as it warms up it's going to be fixed/changed. Bought it in Daytona and drove it home last August (arrived in Michigan looking like a crispy critter). What a great drive. Propermg is a good sight, Moss Motors (www.mossmotors.com) is good although can be expensive. John, where are you at. There are some local places in Michigan I could direct you to if your close. | ||
| Don Collins (Donc) Member Username: Donc Post Number: 85 Registered: 04-2002 |
Are you bringing it back to stock? If you are still going to keep some non stock stuff let me know if you want to know how to fit a AC/Delco alt to it. Makes a world of difference. Double check your front height. It does look like it has the lowering springs in it. You should have about 3" of clearance from the front fender lip to the top of the tire on a non lowered rubber bumper. Once you get going on these it gets addictive. I have restored 3 Midgets, 3 B's, and a 55 TF. Now I am looking for a MGA. | ||
| Bryan Crosby (Bcroz) Member Username: Bcroz Post Number: 47 Registered: 03-2002 |
It might be lowered but, it will be a couple of weeks till I can check it out (stored elsewhere). My main goal this year is to get the engine dry, rather, get it to stop burning and leaking oil. Heads, rear main and anything else that needs to be rebuilt engine wise. Also the idiot who owned it before me hooked up the fans to a switch and bypassed the thermostat. Rather, they are no longer automatic and there is no heat. Makes for rough driving in the spring/fall. Interior and exterior are all new, as are the tires, brakes, exhaust and pretty much anything else none mechanical. | ||
| Mark & Bev Preston (Markp) Member Username: Markp Post Number: 150 Registered: 02-2002 |
John, There's a ton of information, web sites and mailing list for MG's, AH's, Triumph's, TVR's, Jag's, Sunbeam's, ... Do a google search. My first British car before Rovers was a TR6. Kids came along and the TR6 was gone because I needed a back seat. The passion never left. Several years ago I found a 59 Austin-Healey 3000 BN7 in well labeled jars :-) It now runs and is driveable, just not legal yet. For the natioal club: http://www.healey.org/index.shtml There are also local clubs. Join one. They will have lots of info you need. - Mark | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 236 Registered: 08-2002 |
It is a sickness...had at least 1 British car under foot since 1974. The last steel bodied car was a 59 Bugeye, that I transplanted the engine with a 67 motor. As I recall the 67 (1275cc) was said to be the best year. In 78 got tired of rust-o-rations and moved to TVR. Still have the 73 that I bought then and a 65 Griffith that took 5 years to complete the body off ground up restoration on. I think 67 was the last year for the AH Sprite, not entirely sure but from that point on there was just Midgets....Go for it. Bryan, "Also the idiot who owned it before me hooked up the fans to a switch and bypassed the thermostat. Rather, they are no longer automatic and there is no heat. Makes for rough driving in the spring/fall." I wouldn't be to quick to abandon the manual switch in favor of the lucas thermostatically controlled ones. The lucas units are just that...lucas. I run manual switches...very comforting as my crap can reach melt down in a hurry. You could always wire your lucas unit and have a manual override. Also, the thermostatically controlled switch bypass should not affect the cars ability to make heat. | ||
| Bryan Crosby (Bcroz) Member Username: Bcroz Post Number: 48 Registered: 03-2002 |
I'm guessing the guy removed the thermostat and put in a sleeve where the it goes (I've read about people who rally the cars doing so). I may have the manual over ride (good idea). but what ever he did, I can run the car for 20 minutes and still not get any heat. Sum thin aint right. | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 473 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks for the feedback, I live north of Albany, NY. (About 3 miles from Atlantic British!) I spoke to the guy who has the 67 Sprite in the paper. He wants $1100, it's in primer, he replaced the rockers and floor pans. It doesn't run. I need to do my homework. Maybe I will go take a peek! | ||
| Bryan Crosby (Bcroz) Member Username: Bcroz Post Number: 49 Registered: 03-2002 |
$1100 for a sprite in primer that does not run sound a little pricey. Considering it cost $2500 to redo my 73 Midget engine (a 67 will have to burn leaded gas until you redo the valves etc), a paint job, interior and all the other little stuff. Check e-bay for midgets/sprites already redone. Usually they go for around $5500 for that age car. Midgets and Sprites can still be had for a good price. First question to ask is if it burns leaded gas or not. From there, check the clutch (engine has to be totally pulled), pans, shocks and mounts, electrical and the rockers. My 73 ran fairly well and I had almost $8000 into it before I was done. | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 1856 Registered: 02-2002 |
Talk about timing, lol....... There's a fellow here at work with a basket-case MGA and a pair of Bug-eye Sprites, I'm gonna try to talk him out of one of 'em for naught... don't know if I'll be successful or not, but, it's worth a try... once I get the Series done I'll just continue on with the next one.... Dang, it IS an addiction.... -L | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 237 Registered: 08-2002 |
Bryan, Trying to make sure we are on the same page. We are speaking of the thermostatic control switch for the electric fans...or has the PO pulled the thermostat itself. If thats the case, it will take forever to build the heat. If you still have the thermostat and its working properly, I would verify the operation of the dreaded heater valve. Sometimes they appear to be doing all things correctly, but when you take them off they are plugged and/or otherwise not letting much flow through them. | ||
| Bryan Crosby (Bcroz) Member Username: Bcroz Post Number: 50 Registered: 03-2002 |
Todd, It's supposed to hit the mid 50's around here this weekend and I may go get the car. Checking the heater valve is something I have not done. I will check to see if it's clogged. | ||
| Jack Parker (Jack) Member Username: Jack Post Number: 105 Registered: 03-2002 |
I've owned a 1967 MGB since 1979. Bought it from a friend of the family who restored cars as a hobby. Drove it all through college and into the "real" world, then had to break down and get a Honda. Right now, it's in the middle of what was going to be a one year restoration. That was two kids, three jobs, two moves across the county and seven years ago. But...I still have it and have started the search for a body shop around these parts to finally finish it (I hope) this summer. It's totally stock, although I'll replace the chrome wire wheels with minilites, just to avoid the hassles of the wires. I pulled the engine and replaced all seals, checked internals and repainted the block factory red. The engine is still strapped to a pallet. I'll try and post a couple of pictures when I get home tonight. I've used British Victoria in Lenexa, KS for parts, they carry a lot of what Moss does, but find them a little cheaper. | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 238 Registered: 08-2002 |
"although I'll replace the chrome wire wheels with minilites" ah ya big chicken lol | ||
| Jack Parker (Jack) Member Username: Jack Post Number: 106 Registered: 03-2002 |
Yeah, maybe I shouldnt make that decision so soon. Hell, there are more parts available now than in the late '70's / early 80's! It was tough driving an MGB when all my friends had Z-cars. But I've always like British cars for some reason. Made a trip to the old factory outside of Oxford when I was in London once, very cool and the MG Car Cclub was headquarted just down the block. Prior to the B, I had a Vega...not the plain Vega, but the GT! Got about 25 miles per quart of oil. Sold it for $900, bought the MG for $1100. Funny, no girls ever wanted to go for a ride in the Vega, but an MG with the top down - totally different story  | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 474 Registered: 10-2002 |
Looks like there are more parts for MGB's v. Midgets/Sprites... Does anyone know of a good list of things to check for when buying a MG. Looks like the sills go bad... | ||
| Don Collins (Donc) Member Username: Donc Post Number: 86 Registered: 04-2002 |
GO minilites! hehe loved them since I owned them. Look for rust around the heater box. That is a pain to pull out and try to get rid of the rust. Lift up any carpet in the foot wells and look for rust there also. You can replace the floorboards but it is time consuming for sure. (been there done that)  | ||
| Jude (Jdonato) New Member Username: Jdonato Post Number: 32 Registered: 02-2002 |
I've got a 77'MGB rubber bumper and a 73' SIII. Been running the B since 1984, restored it in 92'. The SIII was a fun project. Both fit in the garage end to end. Had an opportunity to buy a running, unrestrored, original MGC (6cyl) but let her slip away. Purchase MG/MGB checks? Wiring of course!, A-arm control bushings (best swap to the V-8 bushings or polybushings), lever action shock absorbers tend to tend to leak oil (conversion to tube shocks available), dual SU carbs run better than a single Zenith 175CD but they can be a biotch to tune. Front suspension and wheel bearings - jack up front wheel, grab it and rock it up and down, look for play in the kingpins, spin and listen for grinding or clicking. I've bought parts from them all: MOSS, Victoria, Proper, Special Interest Car Parts, Advance Auto, Lowes, Home Depot, eBay, bone yards, they are all good. No heat? Along with the checking the thermostat as was said above, check the heater matrix for sludge grime and rust. There is more stuff on the Web for MGB's than there are for Land-Rovers. Austin Healey's are sweet. Yeah, buy it! Good luck. Jude. | ||
| Brad Russell (Bradnc) Member Username: Bradnc Post Number: 152 Registered: 03-2002 |
1952 MG TD here...Charlotte, NC | ||
| Jack Parker (Jack) Member Username: Jack Post Number: 107 Registered: 03-2002 |
John, I have a book from several years ago titled Guide to Purchase & DIY Restoration of the MGB by Lindsay Porter. It's a good reference. Sills rust quickly, reqire a torch and / or grinder to replace, any bubbles or surface rust around the sills means it has started. Check the battery compartment, well shit everything on an MG leaks, so rust can be anywhere, inside the trunk, floorboards, lower part of front fender. Not sure of this, but I think the original hoods were aluminum and later available from the Far East in steel. So, maybe the hood is the only part of an MG not prone to rust. MGB's are good project cars, very simple - at least the pre-rubber bumper ones ('75 & under?). '67 and under have no pollution controls but would require either the rebuilt head for unleaded gas, or use the the lead additive. Overdrive is a nice option, wire wheels can be constant maintenance and run a different axle than disc wheels, so you can't just change wheels (some exceptions there). I prefer the '65 - '69 years. They have the 5-main bearing crank, little or no pollution controls and simple interior. After '69-'70 they just added more stuff to meet EPA and safety issues. If you have a question about an MG, send me an email and I'll tell you what I know - I'm sick enough to own both Rover and MG and would buy a Range Rover to keep the Disco happy if I could swing it! Jack jack@skiwp.com | ||
| Mark & Bev Preston (Markp) Member Username: Markp Post Number: 151 Registered: 02-2002 |
John, Just don't turn it into a trailer queen. I read of others who start down the path of "I'll just repair the rust" and get carried away. It's ok to make it a fine car, just keep it a driver. - Mark | ||
| steve herrod (Sherrod) New Member Username: Sherrod Post Number: 20 Registered: 02-2003 |
yep had 1956 mga for several years....sold it last summer...great fun | ||
| TPH (Snowman) Senior Member Username: Snowman Post Number: 300 Registered: 12-2002 |
I drove a friend's TR4 A one time and have wanted one ever since. It was a very fun car. This thread has me looking at advertisements, stop! stop! S- | ||
| David Gage (Davidg) Member Username: Davidg Post Number: 120 Registered: 02-2002 |
Back in the back of the shop I have 2 midgets, 65 AH 3K, a 66 Mini and Rovers, the only thing that ain't British is the Chebby Truck, which hasn't been on the road since January. Down the street from me is a guy wit a TR6 for $750, needs restoration but isn't a complete basket case. David |
