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Robert Rogers (Rsrii)
New Member
Username: Rsrii

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

After a night of parking in sunny seattle, in the rain, I will take off for work. When I do take off the car changes angles and a stream of water pours down from inside the molding onto the back seat. What should I do to seal the windows?
 

Jonathan Hensel (Nanoscale)
New Member
Username: Nanoscale

Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just posted another thread on this. Will be attacking mine this weekend and let ya know.

If you dont have rot yet you can probably just silicone seal yours by lifting edges of the seal and injecting it into the gaps...
 

Corey (Discobro)
Member
Username: Discobro

Post Number: 112
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You could replace the gasket. You can pick them up pretty much at any online Rover parts site and they aren't expensive. I've replaced my rear window seal - probably the hardest of them all cause of the size. Safari windows should be a snap.
 

Jason (Disco94jason)
New Member
Username: Disco94jason

Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 08:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This seems like a common problem, but becareful, as I learn that it was NOT the rear or upper window that was leaking. Thw water was coming up high, by the rain-gutter rail. It turns out to be the join/seam sealer that cracked. If you take off the black trims that runs along the rain gutter (on the roof, where the roof rack attach if you have one)at the area behind the rear quarter window joining the rear tail light metal panel. It took a long time to figure this out.

Try this as a process of elimination:

1. Use 3 inch wide clear tape to tape along the black rubber window molding, this way it seals water from entering that window. Do this one window at a time, so you can eliminate which window is leaking.

2. If all window molding is taped up on the leaking side, and water is still pouring in (in my case). Then you probably have to remove the interior panels to trace the leak.

3. Again, my leak came from behind the boxed metal section by the rear tail light/ rain gutter.

4. Solution: I bought Autobody Seam sealer (3M brand) digged put the old sealer and reseal the gap. Do not use hard epoxy (too stiff) or bath-tub caulk (can't take the heat of everyday used)

The following was just a clif-notes... acutal project took much longer. Never leaked again.

Disco94Jason

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