| Author | Message | ||
     Nick A. (Nick) New Member Username: Nick Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2003 |
What is the width for the rotors supposed to be? I know you can't cut these things so I need that number to determine if I must replace rotors. Also has anyone noticed a significant difference in the stopping ability of these things once you replace stock pads with aftermarket(such as raybestos),a service tech told me it makes a big difference,thanks.... | ||
| Tbow (Tbow) Member Username: Tbow Post Number: 80 Registered: 12-2002 |
Minimum thickness is 13mm. | ||
| Nick A. (Nick) New Member Username: Nick Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2003 |
How about my second question about the brake pads,do OEM pads work better than aftermarket? | ||
| Tbow (Tbow) Member Username: Tbow Post Number: 86 Registered: 12-2002 |
Many here swear by the OEM pads. I feel it's a matter of your choice and preference. Raybestos has been one of my favorite brand for over 25 years. I just put on a set of Mintex and have been just as satisfied with them. Rover pads are available in organics, semi-metallic, carbon metallic and kevlar. I would suggest either the organic or semi-metallic. I've used carbon and kevelar on my other cars and really didn't care for them. | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 100 Registered: 02-2002 |
Which ones have the best reputation for minimal brake dust? Mine dust up so bad that it starts to look like I'm running w/ NATO black steel hubs. -Lawrence | ||
| Tbow (Tbow) Member Username: Tbow Post Number: 88 Registered: 12-2002 |
Actually they all will dust up. My experience was that the kevlar and carbon ones dusted up less quickly. Brakes sytems are a simple balance or compromise between braking ability versus wearing down a consumable item (pads) against a harder less consumable item (rotors)and brake dust is the byproduct of that wear. The harder pads (kevlar) will dust less and have better stopping power, but you'll most likely have to replace the rotors with each brake job. Whereas organics will have less stopping power (still VERY safe) but you can usually get through a few set of pads before you need to replace the rotors. Which is why Semi-metallics are seen as the best balance between wear and performance. I've even tried the dust shields which slows it down so it's not so bad, but I took them off, because I personally think they trapped the heat and don't let the rotors breath. | ||
| Nick A. (Nick) New Member Username: Nick Post Number: 5 Registered: 03-2003 |
What are the LR OEM replacements,metalic,semi or organic? | ||
| Nick A. (Nick) New Member Username: Nick Post Number: 8 Registered: 03-2003 |
Could anyone tell me what material the origional LR pads are,organic or metallic and what works best with stock rotors? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1168 Registered: 02-2002 |
Nick: I am not aware of the actual materials of construction so I can't answer that one. I recently bought a new set of OEM pads for my truck. I was surprised to find they came in a box with a L/R P/N and were stamped made in England. The insert packaging read Delphi (A division of General Motors), the back of the pads bore a Lockheed trademark. I have also used aftermarket pads extensively on both my truck and customers. Sometimes, the aftermarket pads squeal, sometimes the OEM pads squeal... As for wear, when I recently replaced my rear pads, they had more than 60K on them and had plenty of abrasive material remaining. The rotors were pretty scored, but still had plenty of material left. As the aftermarket pads are inexpensive and the process of changing them simple, go ahead and give the cheapies a try, what do you have to lose? Peace, Paul | ||
| Rick Clarke (Tugcap) New Member Username: Tugcap Post Number: 11 Registered: 02-2002 |
I have used both OEM and cheapest i could find @ NAPA and I have noticed no difference except price. Stops same. Dont forget the black silicon Rick |
