| Author | Message | ||
     Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Senior Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1321 Registered: 02-2002 |
In the last month, there have been a couple different threads posted in the Tech Section about drive shafts, diffs, transfer cases, and gearboxes on the D2. For Example: Craig McLaughlin is removing his Forward Differential due to heavy contaminants found during an oil change. He referred to the "clunk" of the driveline as being the Culprit. Dave Lucas has already done his Forward and Aft Differential. Mike Noe has just recently taken apart his complete driveline. I am curious to know what is the average mileage of failure that everyone is experiencing. And if your differentials failed, did you replace with something like a True-Trac or did you go stock? And what about the shafts? Do you run stock or do you upgrade with something from GBR? Hell, does GBR even make stuff for the D2? My '00 D2 has 37500 and I experience minor 'clunk'. I engaged the Parking Brake and the rear shaft is solid and the front shaft has about 1/8" play in the radial axis. During the 37.5K service last week, I was informed that this normal, which I am okay with. But what about down the road, say around 50 or 60K? Looking for good technical comments, Paul '00 Pig | ||
| Craig McLaughlin (Cmclaugh) New Member Username: Cmclaugh Post Number: 27 Registered: 06-2002 |
Paul, It's hard to say what the average mileage of failure is for D2 driveline components. It really depends on how the vehicle is maintained and driven. In my case I just recently purchased a used D2 with 60k on it to get away from a D1 which was bleeding me dry. This is my second time around with the Discovery and I am not happy about having to replace my second differential in as many vehicles. Overall, I'd say D2's are very robust. However, I feel the key to minimizing driveline problems starts with maintenence. I still can't get used to the fact that by design the drivelines on these things make noise. In fact, this last week I spent two days trying to convince the dealer the driveline clunck I am experiencing is not normal. Sure they drove the vehicle and said everything was fine. But how normal is it to have you driveline clunk all the time in stop and go traffic? The only reason I am planning on pulling the front diff is because of the condition of the fluid when I changed it. My assumption is excessive wear has increased the tolerances in the diff to the point where there is too much backlash. | ||
| Dave_lucas (Dave_lucas) Senior Member Username: Dave_lucas Post Number: 337 Registered: 02-2002 |
Paul, My Diffs were fine, I just upgraded to 4.10's and Truetracs, I looked the stock ones over when removed and they looked fine with 30K on them. "And what about the shafts? Do you run stock or do you upgrade with something from GBR? Hell, does GBR even make stuff for the D2?" Yep, GBR does have stuff for the DII, the 4.10s I am running are GBR's and I needed the rear drive shaft from GBR since the splines are diffrent on the 4.10 pinion than your stock pinion, so I am using a non roto flex shaft in the rear now. They have everything that you need to do the swap. One word of caution, 4.10's are kind of steep for 265/75/16 tires, on the highway I am running 3300 rpms at 75MPH, so I think I need to get some new tires, maybe 33" or 34" to bring the RPM's down some, in city style driving the thing has lots of pep now :p | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Senior Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1323 Registered: 02-2002 |
Craig and Dave, Thanks for posting. That's good to know that GBR manufactures something for the D2. I'll probably wait for a failure of something before replacing though, ie; blow a diff, buy a TT. As of now at 37.5K, the Pig runs smooth and tracks straight. Yes, I get the minimal 'clunk', but after performing an exterior inspection of all the pieces, it all looks good. Paul '00 Pig | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 488 Registered: 03-2002 |
Paul, My truck just passed 49K, the AT went at about 47.5K. When we had mine apart, the diffs and axles were good (playwise, new to me) and we inspected the ujoints carefully and they were fine too, even the sealed DC. I grease the joints after every run as we always find water. My rear diff also gets contaminated with water every time, so I change it out after every run too. So far, so good. The tcase appears to be in fine shape as well, locked and unlocked. My next move is a preemptive install of the GBR DC replacement kit, as I'm paranoid about that unit's potential for failure. -Mike | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Senior Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1327 Registered: 02-2002 |
Thanks for the info Mike. This is all good for the Future of the Pig. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 563 Registered: 02-2002 |
Michael, you say that you change the rear diff oil every run - have you not extended the breather, since this seems a bit excessive? Or are you leaking somewhere else? | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 489 Registered: 03-2002 |
Well, that's funny. Yeah, I extended it up to the engine, that whole deal after the first two times. I checked the hubs, no leaks there. It's tight...except on the breather tube/axle case junction. On the D2, it's a plastic pressure clip, not a nice banjo bolt like the D1/RR. Cheap bastards. Well, the rear feels tighter than the one in the front and the front has never been contaminated. I think I'm gonna tap a new hole in the axle case so I can put the D1 style banjo thingys in there. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 565 Registered: 02-2002 |
Just put a gob of silicone rubber sealant around the outside (around the red clip) - I had exactly the same problem on the front. Now its perfect. | ||
| Greg Davis (Gregdavis) Senior Member Username: Gregdavis Post Number: 724 Registered: 08-2002 |
Paul, the only problem I've had with a diff was when I was replacing the rear with my Detroit. When I went to drain it, only about a cup and a half of oil came out, and the drain plug had about an inch of metallic goo on it. About three weeks prior I had my rear hubs replaced under warranty. It appeared that the tech had forgotten to refill the diff!!! It appeared that the wear was occurring in the diff and not the ring & pinion (whew!). | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 491 Registered: 03-2002 |
Yeah, I tried the silicone thing too, but it doesn't last that long. I won't even go into what happened when I asked the dealer about this under warranty. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 566 Registered: 02-2002 |
I did mine 18 months ago. I cleaned the join very carefully with alcohol, and put on home depot's clear silicone sealant in a pyramid shape with the breather out the top. Its still stuck fine, and its flexible too. Make sure its not oily, that's all. And you're right it is a fucking stupid design LOL. | ||
| Mud Man (Clarance) New Member Username: Clarance Post Number: 34 Registered: 02-2002 |
hey Dean what up? My frony front shaft went at 55-60K miles. My rear diff went at 73k miles. the ring and pinion look like they were out of adjustment, in that they seem like there wasn't much contact between the two. just the edge of the teeth. | ||
| Craig McLaughlin (Cmclaugh) New Member Username: Cmclaugh Post Number: 28 Registered: 06-2002 |
Guy's how do you really tell the difference between a clunking/knocking diff and a bad u-joint in a driveshaft? Do both problems cause the same type of noise or is there a discernable difference? My D2 with 60k is clunking/knocking from what sounds like the front end, or at the very least, the front output end of the transfer box. No noises from the rear diff at all. The problem seems occur more in start/stop traffic when the driveline is hot. Also, I've noticed the clunking when braking to a stop from around 40 mph and the transmission is downshifting into a lower gear. I guess the downshift creates momentary slack in the driveline hence the clunk. I've checked each u-joint carefully on both the front and rear driveshafts and I don't see where I have any movment or play. The only odd thing I've noticed was on my last oil change on the front diff. I had quite a bit of contamination about a half inch of sludge with another quarter inch of metal flakes on the drain plug. Everything else in the driveline checks out. What do you guys think? Is it worth pulling the front diff out for a rebuild? Is GBR my best option should a rebuild be necessary? | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 494 Registered: 03-2002 |
Hmmmm. I had a nasty bang and clunking on both the upshift and downshift (1st to 2nd and 2nd to 1st) when my AT finally died. It was barely noticable until the driveline was up to full operating temp. Then it was quite disturbing. Check for metal fragments in your ATF. | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Senior Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1329 Registered: 02-2002 |
Hmmm sounds like I had better step up the emergency slush fund for new driveline stuff in the not so distant future.  | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 568 Registered: 02-2002 |
Hey Clarance - long time where've you been? What happened with the front shaft? Did it bust on the road? | ||
| Frank Battersby (84frank) New Member Username: 84frank Post Number: 4 Registered: 02-2003 |
I had to replace the front driveshaft after 75k. It started to vibrate and cause strange noises - especially when I lifted my foot off the gas. | ||
| Barry (Barry) New Member Username: Barry Post Number: 8 Registered: 02-2003 |
Dave, Just the info I was looking for. Do you find the GBR 4:10's louder than stock? I know it's all about proper set up, which is why I'm reluctant to drop $$$ for fear of the job not getting done right the first go round. The considerably higher highway RPM's with 4:10's & 32's also has me thinking twice about changing the factory gearing. It's not unusual in my area to run with traffic in the 80-85mph range. Was your MPH based on a "true" GPS calculation? -Barry | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Member Username: Ron Post Number: 147 Registered: 04-2001 |
"My frony front shaft went at 55-60K miles" This seems to be the only issue with DII drivetrain. Keep an eye on the u-joints, if you see rust near/in the caps it is on its way out. Also watch out for vibes. If you see warnings pony up and have it rebuilt before it takes out half the truck when it lets go. Ron | ||
| david summers (Texmoto) New Member Username: Texmoto Post Number: 28 Registered: 12-2002 |
FWIW, rear diff went out on my 99 D ll at 32,000 miles. I will be getting an extended warranty. David |
