| Author | Message | ||
     Jason Urban (Geflackt) New Member Username: Geflackt Post Number: 1 Registered: 03-2003 |
Besides getting ready to do the EAS-to-coil conversion, I'm having brake issues. Normally, the pedal is very firm and stops the Rangie very well. Lately, it has felt very spongy and take an effort to stop. Last weekend I checked the brake fluid and it was low. I topped it up and drove it and it seemed OK. Last night I drove it again for the first time since last weekend and the brakes were very spongy again. Didn't have a chance to check the level, though. The ABS pump seems to run when I start, so I don't know if it's that. The pads were changed last Spring and still look good, although I may change them again in the summer. I'll check the level and brake lines again this weekend. Could it need a bleeding?? It seemed to get bad almost instantly, but I can't remember when or what it was tied to. The poor thing is no longer a daily driver, but I want to bring it back from the dead. Thanks! Jason. '95 Range Rover LWB '00 Disco II. | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 63 Registered: 11-2002 |
Definately bleed the brakes. Suspect the ABS accummulator. It helps to maintain line pressure and over time it loses its nitrogen charge. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 715 Registered: 02-2002 |
If it is the accumulator - the pump will run longer than 45 seconds upon initial startup and then after less than 3 applications of the pedal. An acumulator low on charge in itself will not cause a soft pedal - it just makes the pump run more. First check the amount your pump is running. Then bleed the brakes - follow the factory manual to the letter - you have 11 bleed screws to do in a specific order. A power bleeder is almost a must to make this job bearable. When you bleed - do a complete system flush to make sure you get all new fluid throughout - plan to have at least 3 quarts of brake fluid on hand to do this job. Let us know after that is done. Also - how about simple stuff like pad thickness? Bill | ||
| David (Dave) New Member Username: Dave Post Number: 30 Registered: 02-2003 |
I have a 95 RRC LWB and although the brakes are fine, on my 97 Disco, I just developed a soft pedal and considerable travle (vehicle sat for about a month and then upon start-up it developed these symptoms). First thing I'm going to try is bleeding the brakes. Do I have to also go through the elaborate proceedure on my 97 Disco thats described above for the RRC along with a power bleeder, or is it straight forward on the Disco? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 717 Registered: 02-2002 |
David, Disco system is simple and straightforward - just one bleed screw per caliper. Try flushing the entire system when you bleed and that takes one ? out of the equation. Also - try pressing hard (really hard) on the brake pedal while idling - does it drop over time? If so, MC could be going bad. Bill | ||
| David (Dave) New Member Username: Dave Post Number: 31 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi Bill, Really appreciate your feedback. While idling, the pedal drops a bit over time but I can't say significantly so I'm hoping it's just asir in the system (how it got there just by letting the Disco sit without being started or used for over a month, I don't know). * One question: I'll first try bleeding each caliper, but when you said "try flushing the entire system, do you mean after bleeding each of four calipers, there is another proceedure in order to "flush the system"....or does bleeding the four calipers actually what you meant by "flushing" the whole system? I don't want to miss anything. Thanks! | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 720 Registered: 02-2002 |
David, You'll need to flush all old fluid from the entire system. So - empty the MC (turkey baster is great for this) - refill with new fluid and then proceed to bleed at all four caliper (starting with furthest away from MC) and then bleeding until you get new clean fluid at all four bleed screws. Make sure to keep MC topped up while doing this (or use power bleeder) Bill | ||
| David (Dave) New Member Username: Dave Post Number: 32 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi Bill, Once again thanks for all the helpful info. I've never done it before but I have the LR workshop manual and Haynes manual, so I'll have a look at the proceedure before I try it. Just as a temporary measure (to make it easier the first time I try this), can I just bleed each caliper without refilling with new Brake fluid but just using what fluid exisits in the system now? Also I assume the pumping of the brakes (done by one person) as each caliper is bleed by another person is done with the Disco engine off at all times (although I know the brake pedal will be hard to press after a few times? Thanks! | ||
| Jason Urban (Geflackt) New Member Username: Geflackt Post Number: 2 Registered: 03-2003 |
Just got the Rangie back. Not long after I posted the original message, I noticed the pads and rotors looked horrible. Took it to my local shop and he replaced both. Things now feel great on the brakes and the pedal "strength" is back! I also think a bleed is probably still in order, tho. Thanks! Jason. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 725 Registered: 02-2002 |
David, It really takes no time to flush the system out - so if you're going to the trouble of bleeding, you might as well flush it out and replace with new fluid. Yes - engine off for bleeding is fine. Bill | ||
| David (Dave) New Member Username: Dave Post Number: 33 Registered: 02-2003 |
Great Bill, You have been extremely patient with a novice here and it's truly appreciated. With time constraints currently, I probably won't be able to do the "bleed" for a couple of weeks (won't be driving the Disco in the meantime) but once completed I let you know if that was the reason for the soft Disco brakes. If it isn't , I'll have to look elsewhere for the culprit. Thanks again! |
