| Author | Message | ||
     Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 135 Registered: 10-2002 |
I'm wanting a similiar setup to the Trek Outfitters Rear Cargo Divider (Dog Guard) and Cargo Basket.  They sell them for $350 each or get both for $600 but seems a little steep for something I can make in a weekend for under $100, maybe even $50. I want to make this using a 1" to 2" square steel grid with an aluminum frame which would enable me to hang my machete, pick, small shovel, etc. and be neatly organized without fear of anything hitting or stabbing backseat passengers during excursions, camping trips, etc. Does anyone have a problem with the rear passengers heads coming in contact with the dog guards? I have never been around a Disco with a dog guard so I don't know exactly how they fit...I thought of mounting two head rests/pads to the one I make for extra protection. I'm interested in seeing how others have their vehicle's cargo area setup...whether its plywood cubby holes, steel shelves, or whatever. How do people have their fridges wired? What about extra rear cargo lights (I was thinking of adding a 3rd dome light in the back)? I want to flush mount my 10" speakers in the side compartments but they require a box w/ a minimum of 1.5 cubic ft. which means they would stick out about 3 inches if I built the box the same shape as the sides. May just build the boxes flush anyways and just not have as much bass. I intend to mount the amp on the ceiling where the rear sunroof would be if I had one (perfect size indention) so it's out of the way of everything. I'm building a "carputer" that will double as a center console for the rear seats and still enable me to fold down the 40% side (60-40 split seats) so if I need to carry long items that can't be put on the roof rack. I'm sure 95% of you think this is all crazy and ask why the hell anyone would do this....because I can is always my answer and everything I do is for a reason. Whether its to be more organised, safety, or maybe just bored and want to build something I can really use that I haven't seen before. Now if the gas prices would go down I might actually be able to afford to go places! Maybe like a Moab trip or anyplace out west or up north in western canada. Right now I'll just have to stick with the 57,000 acres of National Forest in the county I'm from (50% USNF) and the rest of North GA, NC, etc. | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 136 Registered: 10-2002 |
The missing picture for above....  http://www.trekoutfitters.com/discovery/ds1divbas.htm I can never get them to load right the first time! | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 116 Registered: 02-2002 |
Hi, Jason. I like the pic you have posted and agree fully that the system can be duplicated much cheaper than purchased. Here's just a few inputs, FWIW: I've used a rear dog-guard and have not had complaints about hitting heads. Of course, most of the people I know are about my own height (5'6") so someone 6'+ may be different. Those rear seats do have a pretty high headrest already (especially compared to about every other truck). If you're going to be going thru the effort of so much manufacturing, including the sub-boxes, why not just pull out the side pannels completely and start from scratch. You can make some custom pannels using MDF or diamond-plate or fiberglass. This would give you as strong of a support for your cross piece divider as you want (you can build a heavy-duty frame under the pannels), and you can design it so your subs fit seemlessly. You could also build in a storage cubby, power plug, and/or multi-port (cigarette-lighter) power ports. Since I have a pooch that uses the rear area on trips, I'm planning on rebuilding those side boxes myself this summer. I want to move them out a little further, and probably bring them up flush with the side windows. I really want some good power stations back there and would like to build in a "cage" for the future addition of a trail air tank that can be sheilded from the wandering teeth of a golden retriever. Another easy modification idea is to trash your rear door pannel and start over. Again diamond plate, MDF or fiber are good materials for this. The fiber would probably be your lightest option if you're worried about the weight on the door. You can build in some nice holders for light-weight items (maybe med kit and fire extinguisher). If you have any questions about building such pannels try doing a google for web sites that talk you through building new door pannels for custom stereo installs. The process can be as simple or as complex as you want. You probably already know this, but I just thought I'd throw it out as a warning. Mounting most amps on the celing (or top of your trunk) is not advised due to the reduced heat disipation. Those sinks will be putting out a lot of heat that's just going to pool around itself. It's even worse if you live in a climate where the interior of the rig gets hot anyway. Maybe you could locate the amp on the rear cargo door or on the back of the 60% seat (since it doesn't sound like you'll be folding it any more and the cage above will give it protection). Well, thanks for getting this far thru my chatter!! Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. Lawrence lnctilly@metrocast.net 96 Disco "Beowulf" NH, USA | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 141 Registered: 10-2002 |
Yeah, I thought about "heat rises" and the rear door installation would be really great considering all the stock panel is good for is to rattle and the little compartment is just storing a dozen bungee cords. I have some aluminum diamond/tread plate that would work really well. Just have to figure out a way to keep the weather off the amp when the rear door is open. I've never taken the panel off so I don't know how much room there is but I may be able to do a flush mount install of the amp with plexiglass over it possibly with a couple 12 volt computer fans for ventilation. Definitely have to seal the rear of the amp completely because the other day I opened the door and about a quart of water poured out of the drain hole after some heavy rains. How does water get in the rear door? The glass appears to be sealed tight and the only other place I can think of is either behind the spare tire or the handle/lock mechanism. Just doesn't seem possible though. | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 292 Registered: 02-2002 |
 | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 293 Registered: 02-2002 |
Courtesy of Will Roeder (Always Prepared)  | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 144 Registered: 10-2002 |
All pelican cases?! That's like $500 worth! I want two of them to fit the width of the adventure rack on the front lower level and be able to stand on either the passenger or driver side door jamb to access. | ||
| Will Roeder (Will_roeder) Senior Member Username: Will_roeder Post Number: 579 Registered: 02-2002 |
hehehe...... Koby, thats funny that you posted that picture. When i saw this thread, i thought to my self "hmm maybe I will post a pic of my pelican cases" ...... Jason, if you can afford them, get the pelican cases!! I love mine. | ||
| Will Roeder (Will_roeder) Senior Member Username: Will_roeder Post Number: 580 Registered: 02-2002 |
Michel Findlay's Set up is nice: http://www.expeditionexchange.com/rubicon/DSC008046.jpg BTW Jason, Thats not $500 worth in my Disco.... $410 actually  | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 294 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jason- $500 is less than the $700 that Trek Outfitters charges.  | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Member Username: Ron Post Number: 171 Registered: 04-2001 |
What I could really use is a dog gaurd behind the front seats. That would make my day. Ron | ||
| Chris von Czoernig (Chrisvonc) Senior Member Username: Chrisvonc Post Number: 1054 Registered: 07-2002 |
Ron, funny you metion that. Just today, I test mounted the extra one I had laying around in my Disco as a load stop right behind the front seats. It looks like it will work out real nice. I had to take it back out though because I forgot that I was putting my seat covers back on. If thats what you want one for, I'll sell it to you. Its a Genuine LR mesh dog guard missing the mounting posts and hardware. I'll even show you how I mounted it. Email me off list if you want it. Chris von C. | ||
| Mike J. (Mudd) Member Username: Mudd Post Number: 92 Registered: 02-2002 |
my seats are out tie downs are in. /image{cargo}  | ||
| Mike J. (Mudd) Member Username: Mudd Post Number: 93 Registered: 02-2002 |
I think Pelicans are better for the roof rack I like soft bags with lots of compartments for my gear. Its also stored between the axels.  | ||
| Mike J. (Mudd) Member Username: Mudd Post Number: 94 Registered: 02-2002 |
I can still use the jump seats for emergancy passengers, when it's not filled with camping gear | ||
| Tom Hyslip (007) Member Username: 007 Post Number: 145 Registered: 03-2002 |
I like to have stuff secure in the back.   | ||
| Nick Bellistri (Nickbell) Member Username: Nickbell Post Number: 57 Registered: 11-2002 |
Tom- what did u make ur rear storage out of... plywood, mdf, fiberglass? | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 148 Registered: 10-2002 |
I found this at blackwidow4wdstorage.com:  http://www.blackwidow4wdstorage.com/MakesModels/DiscoSeries1.html Price is way too much but it looks good: Says Retails $1690...that converts to just under $1k US. | ||
| Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) New Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 23 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi Ron Here in the UK, we have a commercial version of the Discovery, which is basically a van., but it does have the bulkhead you require behind the front seats. The panel even has a piece of folded metal which extends the load bed, and thus removing the now redundant rear footwells. In fact I drive a commercial for tax reasons, but have ripped all the mesh panel out and fitted a recovered rear seat from a range rover. This is a common conversion over here, so I would not be too suprised if the breakers here had a few of them going spare, get back to me if you want more info. The parts might be difficult to get in the states, as the were from LRSV. Hope this is of some help Pete S. | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 118 Registered: 02-2002 |
Tom's setup is similar to what I was suggesting above. If you don't try to work within the limits of the existing plastic trimwork, you can let your needs design it for you. That $1K unit is an obscene price. Home Depot carries hinges, latches and smooth metal rails for slide-out drawers. Have a metal shop cut your pices to your specs (ie 1/2 squares for the frame and whatever thickness you feel is appropriate for the skin) and weld the frame together. You do the final assembly yourself and even pay an auto apolstery shop to carpet the thing. I bet you could have it in your truck for under $300 with the advantage of tweaking the design for exactly what you want. -Lawrence | ||
| Tom Hyslip (007) Member Username: 007 Post Number: 146 Registered: 03-2002 |
It is all plywood, with good support from metal brackets, etc. About $50 for each side inculding the carpet. Very easy to make, and I am not a good wood worker. | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 121 Registered: 02-2002 |
Don't worry about being a good wood-worker, Tom...that's why we cover everything in carpet. | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Member Username: Ron Post Number: 180 Registered: 04-2001 |
Peter, Can you still use the rear seats with the divider in place? Ron | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 146 Registered: 11-2002 |
Ron , some of the police in CO use the Disco as a cruiser. I am sure they have some that go in behind the front seats and work with the rear seats in place.. Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Member Username: Ron Post Number: 184 Registered: 04-2001 |
Hummmm I will have to pull off the b-pillar cover to see whats there to rivnut into. Ron | ||
| Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith) Senior Member Username: Kennith Post Number: 264 Registered: 05-2002 |
I got you all beat... I just ripped the rear seats, side trim and upper trim out. My cargo area is now over 5 feet wide. Cheers, Kennith | ||
| Mike J. (Mudd) Member Username: Mudd Post Number: 96 Registered: 02-2002 |
let's see it | ||
| Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith) Senior Member Username: Kennith Post Number: 265 Registered: 05-2002 |
Let me see if I can find a cd for my digital camera...how long you gonna be up? Cheers, Kennith | ||
| Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith) Senior Member Username: Kennith Post Number: 266 Registered: 05-2002 |
Here you go.  | ||
| Bob Foster (Coppertop) Member Username: Coppertop Post Number: 71 Registered: 12-2002 |
Here my 2 cents worth | ||
| Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith) Senior Member Username: Kennith Post Number: 267 Registered: 05-2002 |
Up mighty late to only give .02, lets at least hear .05 Cheers, Kennith | ||
| Bob Foster (Coppertop) Member Username: Coppertop Post Number: 72 Registered: 12-2002 |
Sorry bout that....try this http://www.fosterconstruction.com/bob/HPIM0032.JPG http://www.fosterconstruction.com/bob/HPIM0033.JPG | ||
| Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith) Senior Member Username: Kennith Post Number: 268 Registered: 05-2002 |
Nice setup Bob, I like the fact that it appears you still have a little room on either side to stuff things. Cheers, and finally off to bed... Kennith | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 279 Registered: 08-2002 |
I went the cheap bastard route. I cut some 1/2" MDF to fit the cargo area, used the carpet as a template and glued/stapled the carpet to it. Used the stock tie downs to mount. Added a slide lock for the fridge. Other than the slide lock this was about a $30 project.     | ||
| Jess Alvarez (Jester) Member Username: Jester Post Number: 133 Registered: 11-2002 |
Wow, Bob, thats really cool. Did you construct that, or is it straight from TruckVault. How much did that setup end up costing? | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Senior Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1350 Registered: 02-2002 |
Brian Dickens, Cheap Bastard or not, that looks great. I like the concept of removing the seats for added space and now I have Engel Envy | ||
| A. Ali (Alia176) New Member Username: Alia176 Post Number: 22 Registered: 03-2003 |
Bob, What do you estimate the empty weight of the Truck vault setup is? | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 88 Registered: 01-2003 |
Where are the factory tie down locations? Is there a good place for some in a 95 d1? I really like that setup Brian, the only passengers I have in the back are two dogs. I doubt they will care if I yank out my rear seat. Anyone come up with a good replacement for those plastic panels on the rear storage bins? | ||
| Robbie (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 318 Registered: 02-2002 |
hey andy, not going for best organized, but this shows the locations of the tie-downs in my 95: http://cloud.prohosting.com/~rbd4a/Back_strapped.jpg | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 281 Registered: 08-2002 |
The freezer fridge is the ARB variety. Although they are identical to the Engel except the ARB is a pretty blue color. If you pull up the carpet and the rubber pad underneath it you will see the tie down points. There are 4 and then 2 others that are used for the lap belts. You can see my make shift tie down hardware mounted at the rear and near the wheel wells. You may need longer bolts to fit in these threaded holes. I left the pad and old carpet out and placed the carpeted MDF directly on the metal of the cargo area. The board goes all the way to the front seats when they are moved back. You might need support under the front edge if the pooches like to come close to the front seats or if you wish to store heavy items there. I just wedged a chunk of 4x6 under it, right behind the center console for now. Plus this area is where I stuff the high lift, shovel and other misc long items, so it really doesn't have any room to sag too much. Here is one alternative for the bins: http://www.discoweb.org/bbspics/1720.jpg | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 89 Registered: 01-2003 |
I'll have to pull up my rug and take a look. I have been thinking I need to come up with better method to hold stuff down and organize the rear. I have been doing a no-no and not tieing stuff down while wheeling in the rear cargo area. I really need to get tie downs set up. That link to the bin straps, what kind of tie downs are being used? Thanks for the information, looks like I have a weekend project coming up. | ||
| Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) New Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 24 Registered: 02-2003 |
Ron You will be unable to use the rear seats with the bulkhead in place. This is one solid bit of kit, and looks like a the upper half of a dog guard with a solid lower section. It is bolted to a piece of angled metal which extends the load bed, making it flat almost up to the central cubby box. This was designed to be used with a 3 door discovery van, but it will fit a 5 door with no problem. I have searched all over for pictures, with no success, I have removed all this from my van, and it is in my garage, behind a load of timber. One day it will go back in, but I would be a bit mean to force my 2 small children to sit in the back on a flat bed. Another option, might be to fit an internal roll cage and have a removable panel bolted just behind the front seats, or maybe fabricate something, the LRSV bulkhead is fixed to the rear grab handles and the rear seat fixing bolts, wouldn`t need to be too strong and could use some steel mesh. Hope this helps Pete S | ||
| Rupert J (Tehamarx) Member Username: Tehamarx Post Number: 20 Registered: 11-2002 |
What size torx bit is used to remove the bolts of the 2nd row seats? Thanks |
