| Author | Message | ||
     Robert Sublett (Rubisco98) Senior Member Username: Rubisco98 Post Number: 736 Registered: 04-2002 |
 Must have hit one heck of a rock in a water crossing yesterday as my track rod is bent all to heck. I'm thinking of Rovertym replacement as well as finally moving my steering stabilizer, any ideas or comments? I really don't want a front skid plate so I am thinking that Rovertym should be tough enough to take a lick. | ||
| D. Chapman (1hank1) Member Username: 1hank1 Post Number: 73 Registered: 02-2003 |
I did something like that to mine. I removed the link and strightened it. Then I took a piece of pipe (Section 40 I think) slid it over and spot welded it to the link. I can jack up the front of the truck with the drag link like this. In all it cost me about $10.00 and a little bit of time. | ||
| Peter (Pete) New Member Username: Pete Post Number: 2 Registered: 03-2003 |
Robert, A thought with just getting a stronger track rod is if you hit the same rock, where does the force go? I know there has been a discussion before about getting beefier rods as compared to protecting with plates as compared to just letting them bend and replacing. Check the for sale section if you want to just replace it. A track rod off of just about and earlier RR or Disco will work. I know there are a couple of people parting out RRs if you go that route. pwc | ||
| Will Roeder (Will_roeder) Senior Member Username: Will_roeder Post Number: 581 Registered: 02-2002 |
Definetly get the Rovertym tie rods. I put them on my truck a few months again and they have been great so far... When we were at prentice cooper a few weekends ago, i hit my rear tie rod several times on that harder trail, and it isnt bent at all. ( I can tell that I hit it becuse it has scratches on it). Peter brings up a good point....however,i believe that its much harder to bend/break a tie rod end or the knuckle than the tie rod, so the switch to HD rods is worth it.... | ||
| Paul Kleinkramer (El_rover) New Member Username: El_rover Post Number: 2 Registered: 03-2003 |
Just like 1Hank1 I have sleeved my links with pipe and welded. It works pretty well but they will still bend if hit hard enough. As a matter of fact, RTE stainless links have bent too. Bending links is a part of life if you want the full advantage of a live axel rig. A steering gaurd limits that advantage somewhat. | ||
| Robert Sublett (Rubisco98) Senior Member Username: Rubisco98 Post Number: 742 Registered: 04-2002 |
Looks like I'll sleeve and weld it in place and replace bushings since I'll have it apart anyhow. Anyone know the diameter of the pipe to go over my link? I'd like to purchase it before I disable the vehicle. thanks for the tips | ||
| Brad Russell (Bradnc) Member Username: Bradnc Post Number: 169 Registered: 03-2002 |
To add to Robert's question, I'd like to know the type of pipe, diameter, and length (if known). Also, did you sleeve both links or just one? How thick is the sleeve? brad | ||
| Brian Friend (Brianfriend) Senior Member Username: Brianfriend Post Number: 556 Registered: 09-2002 |
good to cary spares too. If you sleve the rods and you hit something hard enough you may break the rod near the rod end leaving you with nothing left to straighten out. I know this because of this. http://www.discoweb.org/independencetrail.htm | ||
| D. Chapman (1hank1) Member Username: 1hank1 Post Number: 79 Registered: 02-2003 |
I have my front drag link sleeved, but last weekend I tore my rear one all to pieces. So this week I will sleeve it aswell. The pipe I used was just some old stuff laying around the garage. Im not positive but I think it is 7/8" Inside Diameter and section 40 (3/16") thick. But it may be a little thicker than that. My front has taken some licks and never bent. As far as the length, it is set in about 2" on each side of the tie rod ends. I also took out the tie rods ends just so they did not get welded in to place. |
