| Author | Message | ||
     David Moysey (Bluefin) New Member Username: Bluefin Post Number: 1 Registered: 03-2003 |
I have a 97 Disco and all of the sudden it wouldn’t shift out of park. I called the dealer and they said if you slam on the brake hard it might release and allow the shifter to be put in gear. This has worked for the moment but I’m sure it will fail completely soon. The dealer said there is a safety switch under/near the brake pedal the controls the locking device on the shifter? Once it goes bad it won’t allow the shifter to be removed from park. Where is this switch located and how hard it is to replace? The dealer said the part was only about 40.00 | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1199 Registered: 02-2002 |
Brake light switch, part number AMR 2010. I've replaced two in the past two weeks. If you're very patient and have steady hands, you can open up the old switch and scour the contacts and get it going. The parts are tiny, held in place by spring pressure and Lord Lucas, and the springs WILL fly about the room-wear your safety glasses. Th worst part about this failure mode is that you have also lost your brake lights. Replacement is easy, the switch is the topmost on the brake pedal support, pull the locking ring forward, pry the old switch out. put new switch in, slide locking collar back, release brake pedal. I usually spend more time putting the dash back together and talking to the client than I spend on the fix. Peace, Paul | ||
| Rans (Rans) Senior Member Username: Rans Post Number: 438 Registered: 08-2002 |
Same thing for me last week in the wifes RRC. If you reach under the dash there are 2 plugs attached to sensors on the top of the brake peddle. The top one is the Neutral Interlock Switch. Pull the plug and with the help of a friend sitting in the driver seat working the shifter and brake peddle, use a piece of wire or a paper clip to cross any two out of three of the sockets in the plug until one pair allows your assistant to pull the shifter from Park to Neutral. This is the dangerous part because if they go to drive and you are underfoot with the wires in hand you might go for a ride!!! Just be careful. The replacement part is about $40 at a dealer and you can replace it with a few choice swearwords. | ||
| Blue (Bluegill) Senior Member Username: Bluegill Post Number: 2156 Registered: 02-2002 |
posted by Alan Bates, from Atlantic British's website: Jump the green/purple wire and the green/orange wire; the brake lights should come on enabling the shift out of park. Caution! The brake lights will be on all the time. Have problem repaired as soon as possible. Also you may get an ABS fault stored. Rans' method may also work, but jumping wires is safer & replacing the switch is obviously the real fix. Getting dragged along with your body hanging out the front door with your assistant stomping the break pedal and your head until your legs are eventually separated from your torso would really ruin your Monday. There are two devices up at the top of the brake pedal arm. One device has a vacuum line attached - that is the cruise control kick-off. The other device is AMR 2010. Carefully separate it from the brake pedal arm, disconnect the wiring harness, replace. I've been meaning to take some pics and do a quickie tech article for this part. I'll get to it this week maybe... | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1200 Registered: 02-2002 |
Rans' truck also is apparently not ABS equipped as the ABS trucks have a single connector to the switch. Remember, even if you do get it to shift, you still have no brake lights. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1201 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh yeah, so that no one is misled, the cruise control has redundant systems to disengage, actuating either the electrical signal (from the brake switch), or the vacuum line will cause the cruise control to disengage. | ||
| my96disco (Trevorh) Member Username: Trevorh Post Number: 175 Registered: 02-2002 |
Must be that time of the month. Had this exact thing happen last weekend. Wish I had had this jumpering info then. Trevor | ||
| gp (Garrett) Senior Member Username: Garrett Post Number: 1931 Registered: 10-2001 |
blue. one episode of 'Faces of Death' they showed a guy that had just been tied and quartered. just brought back memories from high school that is all.  oh yeah.....best to buy an extra brake light switch. some day you or someone will need one when out on a trail miles from the dealer. | ||
| Jack Quinlan (Jsq) Member Username: Jsq Post Number: 201 Registered: 10-2002 |
Wow. When it rains it pours. I just had this three days ago. I was on my way to drive the Mojave Road this weekend. I stopped in Barstow to meet some cohorts and all of a sudden no shift. I knew about the relay circuit for the brake sensor, but wasn't sure how to jump it. I figured I could bridge the harness, but I was on my way to 150 miles of offroading and I didn't think that constant bridging under the steering column was any kind of solution. Placed a call to Pioneer centres in San Diego to try desperately to reach our resident guru Sean Puno. This guy is probably the greatest dealer tech and general money saver in LR history. Here's the Magyver-like fix that allowed me to complete the Mojave. Remove your rear center brake light housing. Use a 2' piece of wire to connect the center blade of the rear bulb to the innermost defroster heating element connectentio on the hinge side of the door. Bridge the two hinge side heating element connections together. Start up the truck. Turn on the rear defrost (hence lighting the rear brake and powering the circuit). Shift to your heart's content. Be careful because you no longer have brake lights unless you manually turn them on and off when braking. This tip was a total lifesaver. Look for an upcoming write up of an incredible trip and you'll see what I would have missed without this. | ||
| David Moysey (Bluefin) New Member Username: Bluefin Post Number: 2 Registered: 03-2003 |
Thanks for the help! It was an easy fix but something that should have a simple manual override in case of a failure. Anyway Thanks | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 597 Registered: 09-2002 |
Jack, wouldn't it have been simpler to jump the switch? moneysavers at Pioneers... ROTFL | ||
| Blue (Bluegill) Senior Member Username: Bluegill Post Number: 2161 Registered: 02-2002 |
You're right David. You have to laugh at the logic: let a $40 plastic "safety feature" turn a $30k machine into a dead weight. | ||
| Rans (Rans) Senior Member Username: Rans Post Number: 441 Registered: 08-2002 |
Actually Paul we do have ABS and we're getting the ABS/TC fault mentioned above by Blue. Sorry I wasn't clearer, there are two switches to the top of the pedal and the lower one is the vacuum connector. They each have a single connector to them. I should point out that my technique is an emergency method for when you are stuck somewhere blocking things and the truck HAS to be moved (and it's pouring rain too) I was talking to the Service Writer at the dealer yesterday and he told me this happened to him recently while in the toll booth at rush hour. His coins missed the cage and he threw it in park to get out and pick them up.....then couldn't get back into drive! I should have mentioned that my method was an emergency stuck out in the middle of no-where in a rainstorm and the vehicle HAS to be moved | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1211 Registered: 02-2002 |
Sorry Rans, it didn't sound just right. I just used a piece of number 10 wire to jumper the pins after referencing my ETM to find which two pins. If you want to go ghetto in a big way, I rigged up a hand switch for my brake lights! Fixed the switch the next day... Yesterday, somehow my alarm became activated and I couldn't start the truck. Not to panic, I calmly locked the truck, walked around the truck reciting the Lucas prayer, unlocked the truck and drove away! Peace, Paul | ||
| Jack Quinlan (Jsq) Member Username: Jsq Post Number: 202 Registered: 10-2002 |
Peter, Jumping at the harness is simpler just to get out of park, but then your brake lights are permanently on. You need to be able to turn them on and off in order to get it home with even the smallest degree of safety. Going home in traffic I would DEFINITELY have gotten rear ended without the ability to alert people with my brake light. I've spent about $55 dollars at pioneer since i got my rover. I go in with problems and i get free advice. you must be dealing with the wrong people or taking the wrong approach. | ||
| Rans (Rans) Senior Member Username: Rans Post Number: 442 Registered: 08-2002 |
No problem! Reading this again makes me think that I will pick up a spare switch for the wifes RRC and one for my D2 as well. | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 43 Registered: 01-2003 |
Mine was stuck in reverse last weekend. Took me about 10 minutes of being very embarrased (in a gas station lot-line of traffic) while trying to get it out of reverse, and it somehow worked. Could this be related? Brendan 95 Disco | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1217 Registered: 02-2002 |
Brendan, it is unlikely this is the cause as the mechanism that is actuated by the brake light switch only locks the shifter in park. I'll poke around and see if I can find a reason for the truck sticking in reverse. I have a hunch, but want to investigate before I embarrass myself-again! There are multiple interlocks, I want to check to see what's up. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 298 Registered: 08-2002 |
The shifter on the '95 has a problem and there is a service bulletin on it. I do not know if this is the problem Brenden has. However when it happens it is easy to determine if the shifter is the problem. To do this take a screw driver and carefully remove the cover off the top of the shifter and look what is going on. If something is wrong it should be obvious and should be obvious how to fix. Typically the c clamp comes loose from the slot on the pin and the shifter mechanism cannot be raised (when you push in the thumb button on the left of the shifter, typically this button will feel sticky if this is the issue). If the c clamp is partially loose fussing with the thumb button may get it to go without removing the shifter cover. If the clamp is off, then you likely will be completely stuck in whatever gear it was when it came off. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1220 Registered: 02-2002 |
Brian: Mine wouldn't allow me to shift into anything lower than Drive. Upon removal of the surround, I discovered two small Bic lighters interfering with the movement of the shifter. You can't believe how difficult it is to remove a bic lighter from a shifter without completely disassembling the truck! | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 614 Registered: 09-2002 |
Paul, didn't you see the "LRNA General Warning" on that pack of smokes? | ||
| Blake Monchilovich (Azblake) New Member Username: Azblake Post Number: 32 Registered: 02-2003 |
What's the fix to disable the interlock? If I carried enough spares to fix it trailside I'd have to pull a trailer and make caches along the way. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1232 Registered: 02-2002 |
Blake: Welcome to the joys of owning a Land Rover. As for the caches, just look for the parts that have fallen from the Land Rovers that preceded you down the trail. | ||
| Rans (Rans) Senior Member Username: Rans Post Number: 452 Registered: 08-2002 |
Well I picked up a Neutral Interlock switch for each truck yesterday and will always have THAT situation under control. Now I'm looking at trailers as Blake has indicated!! LOL |
