| Author | Message | ||
     Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 192 Registered: 04-2002 |
The radiator (engine coolant) of my 2000 DII has a very small crack in it, right at the elbow of one cross-tube and the right side. The dealership of course wants to replace the whole thing to the tune of $500-700 depending on which radiator I have. I could do the labor myself, but it looks like a real pain. Does anyone have any experience with any type of patch or sealant? Can something like this be depended on for a few years? | ||
| Dean Chrismon (Chrismonda) Member Username: Chrismonda Post Number: 89 Registered: 12-2002 |
Is the radiator part you are talking about plastic?I am not familiar with the DII but LR dealer would say that replacement is the only way. If it is aluminum or metal take it to a quaility radiator shop they should be able to weld it shut. Do not waste your money on a new radiator. F****ing dealers | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 193 Registered: 04-2002 |
It's on the metal, and I'm sure a radiator shop could weld it, but looking at the workshop manual, it's a two hour job just to get the sucker out of there! | ||
| David (Dave) New Member Username: Dave Post Number: 39 Registered: 02-2003 |
Just out of curiosity, when there is a leak due to a 5 inch long hairline crack on a plastic radiator, is there any epoxy type adhesive that would work (once the hairline crack was enlarged a bit in order to fit in the epoxy)? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1231 Registered: 02-2002 |
Erik: If you're up to it and have the soldering skills, I think I'd give it a try in situ. Even the aluminimum radiator tanks can be soldered using aluminium solder, however, the need to be scrupulously clean cannot be overstated. David-due to the constant expansion/contraction of a radiator tank, it is unlikely you'd find a suitable epoxy that would work for any length of time. Peace, Paul | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 194 Registered: 04-2002 |
Paul, That's not a bad idea, I've even got a tiny torch that could do the job. The radiator would have to be drained and flushed, to remove even residue of the coolant, but it could work... | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1237 Registered: 02-2002 |
Nah. just drain it lower than the point where the leak is. | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 196 Registered: 04-2002 |
Calling arround for aluminum soldering kits, I found that PraxAir also sells a JB-Weld type product for aluminum. I'd be skeptical of it's ability to sink into the crack as well as solder, but it's another option. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1238 Registered: 02-2002 |
The aluminium solder is pretty difficult to get used to using. Unless you are very confident, I'd suggest practicing for awhile before you tackle your radiator. If you're not careful, the aluminium will crinkle and burn away. You might want to hit a boneyard and get a junk Al radiator to work on to build you soldering skills. It is not as easy as soldering plumbing stuff. Paul | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1239 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh yeah, I wouldn't consider the JB weld, in spite of my affection for JB weld in other applications. | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 197 Registered: 04-2002 |
Thanks for the advise. I'll find some thin aluminium to practice on. I just picked up the soldering kit, $20. | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 198 Registered: 04-2002 |
Paul, I would like to hear your opinion of JB-Weld, both potentially on a radiator, and elsewhere. | ||
| Paul Long (Humveewannabe) New Member Username: Humveewannabe Post Number: 9 Registered: 03-2003 |
Erik, I can attest to JB Weld working well on fuel tanks (bumper jack kicked under, car went down slicing tank open; not mine, I use wheel chocks and real jacks) Briggs small engine fuel tank (wore through at strap) and it works great on hydraulic cylinders for filling in low spots or pits on the surface of the shaft. Also had a straight 6 in a Chevy truck years ago that was leaking compression between two cylinders. Pulled the head and found the block right between two cylinders where it is only about 1/2 inch thick missing a chunk of metal, either corroded away or a bad casting. I filled the void with JB and it was still running strong when I got rid of it years later. Of course the head gasket presses down to help hold the stuff in there as well. On the radiator leak, you need something more fluid to get into the crack, like solder to fill it. I'm convinced the DII radiators are junk. My '99 II was replaced at 45,000 under warranty, and tonight I crawled under to see if there was room to bolt a clevis I found laying around onto one of the frame rails. Found the dreaded orange drips dangling from the lower plastic covers. Went right to where the original radiator leaked, sure enough 18 tubes down on the left (facing engine) radiator turns wet all the way down. 20,000 miles to a radiator?? Obviously the expansion and contraction of aluminum is just too much for this application. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1246 Registered: 02-2002 |
Erik: I keep a pack of JB weld around all the time. It is great stuff, but I'm afraid that folks use it where it is best avoided. I also know of a forktruck engine that was badly blown up (parts through block). The shop that this happened in was not about to tell the boss what they'd done, they JB'd the block, put some new parts in (mostly used) and as far as I know, they are still running that truck-let me tell you, a block with JB weld gooped on the side looks pretty rough, but it ran. I've even used it to fix guitars! I have yet to try to thread it although they say it can be done. In this application, I'd be uncomfortable using it for the reasons I stated above. I tried to fix a radiator expansion tank using among other things, JB weld. In that application, it did fine as long as I kept a huge hose clamp around the tank to keep it in compression. I thought that it was bad when I needed to replace the radiator in my truck at 150K, but twice in 65K that''s crazy! Peace, Paul | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 731 Registered: 02-2002 |
Go to any dealership garage and you'll see a stack of D2 radiators in the corner! It's amazing that they keep replacing them with the same junk. Strangely enough (BTW - this is second hand knowledge only, so don't take it as gospel) - but I've got a friend who is LR dealer mechanic and while they will not permit the mechanics to change from Dexcool to standard green antifreeze on customers warranty vehicles - they do it on personal and out of warranty trucks and the radiators do not fail afterwards ?! Go figure Bill | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 56 Registered: 02-2003 |
2000 LR are still under warranty. Get them to replace it for free...... | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 200 Registered: 04-2002 |
Can't do it. 58k on the clock. | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Member Username: Ron Post Number: 245 Registered: 04-2001 |
Erik I can check on retail of a rad. installed 500-700 seems high to me. PCC000650 is the part on non-secondary air trucks. The design of the DII rad is such that they are not really fixable. It is not terrible to remove and refit one yourself though. Ron | ||
| David (Dave) New Member Username: Dave Post Number: 40 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi Paul, Sorry to respond so late to your helpful comments regarding an epoxy on a plastic radiator. Your're correct as I have been unsuccessful in finding one that would adhere for long, even those designed to withstand over 300 degrees. The contraction and expansion of the plastic as you mentioned seems to be at fault. At least I was able to reduce the leak to a minimum. Thanks again! | ||
| J E Robison Service Co (Robisonservice) Member Username: Robisonservice Post Number: 63 Registered: 10-2002 |
Something about these radiators makes them fail like yours. But luckily for you LR has dropped the price to keep their warranty claims low. You can buy a genuine LR radiator for a DII for about $200. John www.robisonservice.com |
