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Burton Short (Burton)
New Member
Username: Burton

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I've got a 99 Disco II and was wondering what others had done to increase horse power. Just looking for a little more pull when running 45 - 55 mph.
 

Carter Simcoe (Carter)
Senior Member
Username: Carter

Post Number: 2156
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

cut off the mud flaps
 

Jason T. Barker (Speedminded)
Member
Username: Speedminded

Post Number: 181
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

lots of high performance stickers
 

Jack Edwards (Olered)
Senior Member
Username: Olered

Post Number: 291
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Nose cone and spoiler from Old Superbird.
 

Paul Long (Humveewannabe)
New Member
Username: Humveewannabe

Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Crash diet
 

John Moore (Jmoore)
Senior Member
Username: Jmoore

Post Number: 559
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Premium gas, oh yeah, already using that...
 

Burton Short (Burton)
New Member
Username: Burton

Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the tips guys... Not looking to build some sort of hot rod. Just wondering if anyone had done anything to add a little pep when trying to go uphill when going 45 - 55.
 

Michael Noe (Noee)
Senior Member
Username: Noee

Post Number: 556
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You might be hearing something soon and it looks promising in that it's not a hodge-podge type thing. Go look at the last two or three days of posts on the yahoo groups D2 forum...
 

John Moore (Jmoore)
Senior Member
Username: Jmoore

Post Number: 560
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sorry Burton, they are just not peppy. They are designed for low end torque not speed. Just make sure your tuned up good. Plugs, wires, good oil, clean filters, injector cleaners, etc. K&N's can kill the MAF with oil, especially if you offroad. There's really no bolt on performance.
 

Gil Stevens (Gil)
Member
Username: Gil

Post Number: 236
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

put it in sport mode
 

Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4)
Member
Username: Rover4x4

Post Number: 98
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

mash gas harder
 

Richard StSauveur (Budsaint)
New Member
Username: Budsaint

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Leave the old lady at home.
 

TPH (Snowman)
Senior Member
Username: Snowman

Post Number: 354
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Shave your head, less air resistence.

S-
 

Steve (Steve2)
New Member
Username: Steve2

Post Number: 38
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 06:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

tips for 'more power'

1: replace fuel filter if more than 20k mi old.
2: replace spark plugs if more than 30k mi old.
3: install safari snorkel - the ram air gives it a 'shove' at fwy speeds.

these would only be modest increases in 'feel'. other than a 4.6l conversion....avoid any chips or cams.

steve
 

Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason)
Senior Member
Username: Jason

Post Number: 439
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Where's my dead horse? I've got an itchin' to beat it again...
 

Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
Member
Username: Electriceel

Post Number: 66
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Nose cone?!?

Spoiler?!?

Leave the old lady at home?!?

Cripes! First post and the guy walked into a nest of vipers. Everyone is a comedian. You should be ashamed. ALL OF YOU!!!

Now, the best way to get more pull in the 45-55mph range with the Disco is to trailer it behind a Silverado with a Vortec 8100.
 

Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4)
Member
Username: Rover4x4

Post Number: 104
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2003 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yes sir

no replacement for displacement
 

Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason)
Senior Member
Username: Jason

Post Number: 441
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2003 - 01:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

It's too bad before their first post they don't bother to do a search. It seems like every newbie who has the gumption to post a question never thinks to wonder whether it has been asked before...

...or should I remind us all of the very exhausting (and repeated) discussions of "which oil is best," "which oil filter," "what octane of gasoline," "would a Tornado plus AF1 intake kit give me 35 HP???" I love telling my friends about these great threads...

No seriously, the engine is a damn pushrod which still retains the basic design incorporated into it since it's inception in the early '60's. I certainly think there exists about 40 years of tried and true engine tricks/modifications that would certainly yeild a discernable net improvement in performance.
What?
No, I thought internal combustion was NEW!!??

But, alas, it's a Land Rover and a Discovery...so it must be different. And the question is being asked by a Land Rover and Discovery owner, so they must be intelligent.

Okay, you wanna get serious...

port/polish the heads; match port the manifold - $$$$
cam with more lift and a little more duration - $$ ($160 cam, $60 lifters, $$$ labor)
free-flowing exhaust - $$$ (Borla or NRP, even more $$ for headers)
rechip the computer - $$ (RPi around $400-500???)
4.10 ring and pinion - $$$ (if you don't touch the engine, this ratio will at least put it somewhere near the powerband at 45-55 mph)
4.6 L short-block $$-$$$ (Will had them for $900 used, somebody has them for $1600 rebuilt, other places $3000+ new)
5.2 L - $$$$ (yeah...polishing a turd...great engine in a bloated woman of a vehicle)
Supercharger - $$$$ (go ahead and spend your children's college fund)
Nitrous Oxide - $$ (less than $1000, but don't come back in 3 weeks crying about your blown engine).

Nest of vipers? Heck yeah. Got bit this time...our fault. You get bit again, it's your fault...
 

Dan Armbruster (Dan_armbruster)
New Member
Username: Dan_armbruster

Post Number: 13
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2003 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you're looking for a racecar buy a porsche, it is after all a land rover.
 

Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith)
Senior Member
Username: Kennith

Post Number: 298
Registered: 05-2002
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2003 - 11:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

OK,

Drop in a K&N air filter, as well as Bosch platinum +4s. Gasoline is a huge player as well, get as close to 95 octane as you can, Sunoco sells 94.

There was a thread titled something like low speed, in which I explained to an indevidual how to drive a Disco II fast. Stock, you have an extremely fast SUV there, she just has to be rubbed right before the leg will start to shake, know what I mean?

At high speeds on the highway, you can keep her stable as well. You want to make smooth, slightly decreasing radius turns above 80mph. I'm not saying to speed simply because you can, I'm simply illustrating the capabilities of your vehicle so you know your boundries and how it can perform. Your Disco II will reach 120mph in stock form before an electronic limiter kills the accelerator. With throttle modulation, you can peg the RPM guage. Otherwise, it will shift in it's powerband.

Keep it in sport mode all the time, as you never know when you will need that kick in the pants (especially in the city). The difference in the modes at high RPMs is dramatic.

The tires you want for speed driving are the Michelin tires seen on most all of the new rovers. They handle beautifully.

Anyway,

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Chris Marcel (Gumarcel)
Member
Username: Gumarcel

Post Number: 201
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2003 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

wow the d2 can make it up to 120?!! I have maxed out my D1 at about 105, it wouldn't go any faster!!

Marcel
 

Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith)
Senior Member
Username: Kennith

Post Number: 299
Registered: 05-2002
Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 03:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yeah,

It will do 120. With just the right amount of throttle it will cruise at 90. 70-85 is comfort range on long interstate roads. It is all irrelevant, though, as the only purpose of the higher top speed is an increased comfort cruising speed.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Greg French (Gregfrench)
Senior Member
Username: Gregfrench

Post Number: 319
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Magnecore wires helped my performance. And my truck's!
 

Will Roeder (Will_roeder)
Senior Member
Username: Will_roeder

Post Number: 611
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

a few inexpensive things that helped my performance a little in my D1:
flowmaster muffler
Magnecor wires
NGK spark plugs
K&N air filter (dont over-oil it any you are fine...)

my. $0.02
 

Roland Kutasi (Disco1)
New Member
Username: Disco1

Post Number: 40
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Basically it's all relative! The more power you want.....the more money it costs.
 

Scott Scott (Scottoz)
New Member
Username: Scottoz

Post Number: 28
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 12:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Drive in more dense environments - you want more oxygen in the air. Also try to drive only when its is raining - the air is denser and colder and that is fantastic for the engine. Also try increasing tire pressures and driving on only very well finished tarmac. Having read the other posts on top speed can I just add that I reccomend on doing forearm exercises to enable you to grip the wheel a little harder.

Cheers
 

Mike J. (Mudd)
Member
Username: Mudd

Post Number: 97
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 01:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yea, right,
do leg exercises so you can push the pedal harder.
 

Burton Short (Burton)
New Member
Username: Burton

Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sorry for the post guys, didn't realize I was beating a dead horse. Like I said I was just wondering about getting a little more pull from 45 - 55. I'm not trying to build a hot rod, don't need to drive 120. I know what type of vehicle I've got and what it was made to do, that's the primary reason I got it. Spends 45 - 60 days off road (beaches and mountains) and I wouldn't trade it for any other vehicle on the road. In the future I'll take my questions to another forum. Thanks for the helpful post Noee, Jmoore, and Will.
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 631
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


quote:

Drop in a K&N air filter, as well as Bosch platinum +4s. Gasoline is a huge player as well, get as close to 95 octane as you can, Sunoco sells 94.



The first two items only match stickers in performance. In fact, they are better, 'cause they cost more.
Gasoline - with the 4.0's compression ratio, there should be no performance changes with octane rating beyond 91.

peter
 

Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason)
Senior Member
Username: Jason

Post Number: 446
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The only issue with the octane is the knock sensors incorporated into the 4.0 GEMS engine management. If detonation is occurring due to too low of gasoline octane being used, then the GEMS is going to retard the timing so that detonation does not occur. This will be accompanied by a loss in power.

So, would using octanes greater than 91 NOT result in a performance changes? Yes, only if the engine is not currently retarding timing to prevent detonation on 91. Detonation with a certain octane of gasoline may depend on a number of factors; environmental conditions and general condition of the engine, included.

In general, using an octane higher than 91 shouldn't result in a performance increase (possibly even a decrease).
 

Dan Armbruster (Dan_armbruster)
New Member
Username: Dan_armbruster

Post Number: 25
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Does it matter any if you use just 87 octane regular unleaded? Any long term damage?
 

R. B. Bailey (Rover50987)
Senior Member
Username: Rover50987

Post Number: 470
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Turbo sticker.
 

Greg French (Gregfrench)
Senior Member
Username: Gregfrench

Post Number: 330
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Way to go, guys...We lost another one.

Man you all are harsh. Maybe that is why I am addicted to this site!
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 635
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jason,

bravo for not being lazy and writing this up. this is something that deserves to be included in "want mo powah" or "wanna save on gas bill" FAQ, because it pops up very often.

in fact, from the Disco's compression ratio, i'd even risk to say 89 as a detonation threshold. i have a 68 Jeep with a Buick 350 in it, similar compression ratio and ignition timing, and it tends to ping ever so slightly on the grades when i use regular 87-octane gasoline in it.

peter
 

Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason)
Senior Member
Username: Jason

Post Number: 447
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Peter,

unfortunately, it's a lot harder than just using compression ratio to determine acceptable octane. Most of the problem lies within the cylinder head design. The dinosaur combustion chamber on the Disco, for example, is a far cry from that on a modern DOHC import engine running 11.0:1 or higher. Cam timing events (not just intake and exhaust durations, but lobe-centers, etc., which differ by many degrees from the '95 to '96 model year with no change in compression ratio) can also affect what octane could cause a given compression-ratio'd engine to ping...


As far as a FAQ goes, I was working on a rudimentary engine article discussing many of these factors (and among others, simply explaining how an engine operates as the misunderstanding of that basic premise is what propagates most of the misinformation). Probably won't be done for a while as I need to get my thesis handed in by the 25th of this month...

Dan, using 87 octane *could* lead to carbon deposits building up within the combustion chamber over time (again, considering a 96+ Disco with the GEMS). If the 87 octane causes detonation, the engine management will retard the timing to combat this. This will cause 2 things: less power, and shorter intervals between successive sparks (e.g. increasing the chance that the air-fuel mixture does not burn completely during the combustion and following exhaust stroke).
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 637
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

LOL, Jeep and Rover got their Buick engines within 3 years, so the chamber design hasn't changed a whole lot :-)

now, timing is something i hit my head against every now and then - and this is the difference between detonation (shock wave burn in lean mixture) and compression ignition. To combat the first, ignition timing needs to be retarded (piston closer to the head, less distance for the shock wave to form and chances better for liquid fuel to get fully atomized). To combat the second, it needs to be advanced (to pre-ignite the mixture before it goes off due to compression heating).
On 11:1 compression ratio engine I would advance the ignition (which would bias the output towards the higher RPM range) - but I can be grossly wrong.

peter
 

daniel gura (Dhglax)
New Member
Username: Dhglax

Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I guess what my true question is....by solely adding a K and N Filter will you see a performance difference.....
 

Dan Armbruster (Dan_armbruster)
New Member
Username: Dan_armbruster

Post Number: 32
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yes but only during begining acceleration
 

Roland Kutasi (Disco1)
Member
Username: Disco1

Post Number: 48
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2003 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If there was a difference, it would be so small, I doubt you would notice it. We are talking about a 2 ton vehicle!
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 646
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2003 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

daniel, my true answer here - out of 4 vehicles with K&N, i could not convince myself of any gains in any of them.

then i started noticing fine dust behind the K&N filters... no mo
 

daniel gura (Dhglax)
New Member
Username: Dhglax

Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi Peter....what do you mean by noticing fine dust behind the filter....what about a KN filter plus magnecor wires?
 

gp (Garrett)
Senior Member
Username: Garrett

Post Number: 1981
Registered: 10-2001
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

only difference you will feel with new magnecores is if you had bad wires before them. stick with a paper filter. too many of us have gone through all this before. KN is worthless with our trucks.
 

Dan Armbruster (Dan_armbruster)
Member
Username: Dan_armbruster

Post Number: 41
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I never heard that about KN before. If I already have one in do you think its necessary to go back to paper?
 

gp (Garrett)
Senior Member
Username: Garrett

Post Number: 1982
Registered: 10-2001
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

your truck came with a paper one.
 

Bill Howell (Billh13)
New Member
Username: Billh13

Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

http://www.darwinawards.com/darwin/index_darwin1995.html This is an idea, if you really have the need for speed.

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