| Author | Message | ||
     Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 129 Registered: 01-2003 |
I have a 95 d1 that runs fine when it's cold, but let it warm up and it runs like crap. Once the truck is at operating temperature,it misfires and bogs down and wants to stall. The truck doesn't idle once its warm. If I get on the gas, it will come back, but still wants to stall. It seems like the truck is getting spark, but maybe too much fuel. When the truck is running badly, it seems to smell like its getting flooded. I have noticed the exhaust pipe has been covered in carbon build up. Okay, what's been done already: I have changed the fuel filter, cleaned out all of the emission hoses, checked for vacuum leaks, replaced the plugs, cap and rotor about 1100 miles ago. I rechecked them all, including putting all the old ones back on, with no effects. The wires are about a year old and in good condition. The coil seems to be good from voltage and resistance checks, hot and cold. I replaced the stepper motor and the ects, or Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. The truck seems to be in time okay. One thing I did find was that the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor was loose. I tightened it and checked the timing, it was fine but the problem persists. A fuel temp sensor is coming monday (I hope). Any ideas? I am hopeful that the fuel temp sensor is the problem, but what else should I check? Could the o2 sensor have something to do with it? I don't get any error codes and I don't think the ecu or the thottle position sensor has any problems. I don't think my fuel injectors are bad, wouldn't the truck run bad cold too? Any help would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Marlin Begay (M_begay8) New Member Username: M_begay8 Post Number: 9 Registered: 03-2003 |
My 95 did the same thing before it stop running. I change the fuel temp sensor and it help a bit but still had bad idle somtimes. The vacuum diaphragm seems loose on mind how did you tightened it | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 131 Registered: 01-2003 |
Its a tork, maybe a t-15, but I can't remember off the top of my head. I used a 1/4" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet to hold a bit from on those screw drivers you can change the head of. You know the ones that has like 10 different bits in a little case, generally a thing someone gives you as a gift if they don't want to buy you rover parts.  I realigned the diaphram plate to line up with the previous marks made by the bolts and washers holding down that plate. I don't think this was my problem, but I don't know. Marlin, Did you ever figure out your trouble? | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 135 Registered: 01-2003 |
Anyone know if you can trouble shoot the fuel temp sensor? I won't be able to get a new one for a week (back ordered). I would like to test my current one if possible, just don't know if there is way, besides replacing it. Would pulling the plug from it while the truck runs like crap cause the truck to default to some fail safe mode? If so, would that help me figure out if the fuel temp sensor is my problem? | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 137 Registered: 01-2003 |
Well, I tried the fuel temp sensor, and no luck. Before I replaced it I tried the disconnecting the sensor and running the truck. It seemed to run fine, but as it warmed up, it started to misfire again. Well, since I had the sensor, I threw it in and the truck got better, but still has misfire issues. Now I'm really stumped, just might have to give up and take it to a dealer. Any ideas before I push the truck off a cliff for the insurance? Since I haven't been able to drive this truck for 3 weeks, its getting old. | ||
| Marlin Begay (M_begay8) New Member Username: M_begay8 Post Number: 11 Registered: 03-2003 |
Maybe it is your wires. You should go somewhere dark no lights and open your hood. Look at the wires if you see blue light your wires are bad. Be careful because its dark and the engine is running. | ||
| Todd W. McLain (Ganryu) Member Username: Ganryu Post Number: 190 Registered: 10-2002 |
Andy, If you take it to the dealer, can you post back what the problem was? Occasionaly, I have almost the exact same problem and am seperated from the nearest dealer by a rather large ocean. -Todd | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 156 Registered: 01-2003 |
No problem. I took it to a guy here in town who when local area dealers get stumped they take the truck to him. I hope its some kind of stupid problem that I'll kick myself for over looking. But I'll let everyone know what happens. By the way I checked the wires, They are those magnacore ones. I check resisitance hot and cold, sprayed the running engine with a mister at night and no leaks. I even put my old wires back on to see if that would help. I'm preety sure it is a fuel problem, but hopefully the mechanic can firgure it out. (for those in Utah, Regent Street Automotive on state street in SLC, good guy and knows his shit, very reasonable prices for awesome work) | ||
| Paul Cringle (Manxi) New Member Username: Manxi Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2003 |
I have a 1995 range rover 4.0SE auto with exactly the same problem ( see post in Range Rover section) it has been off the road 3 months now and I also have an ocean around me "Isle of Man" the problem is driving me crazy. I am sure mine is a fuel problem as well, plugs are sooty and wet with fuel when removed any info from your fix would be very helpful so please post the results thanks | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 66 Registered: 02-2003 |
I wonder if the fuel injectors are leaking fuel into the combustion chamber. Any external signs of leakage? Might be worth testing them. Does this happen regardless of whether there is a full tank or near empty? Also check the wiring at the fuel pump for corroded connections, they have been known to rust to hell. | ||
| Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 68 Registered: 09-2002 |
Andy, I know it's not much help to you, but take a look at my post about the $2000 valve job. I have a similar no idle problem, but it's not misfiring at all. If I'm correct (in reading another post somewhere around here), that vacuum advance on the distributor will only make a noticable difference while it's driving, not idling. But, this could just be a really bad coincidence, considering Marlin, me and You all have idle problems, and all of our vacuum advances are bad(or loose) I took my truck to a shop, and in their general set of tests they said that the vacuum unit on mine is shot, and doesnt work at all. Someone want to shed some light on this things importance? | ||
| Paul Cringle (Manxi) New Member Username: Manxi Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2003 |
Hi I have just done a valve job on my 1995 4.0 Range Rover, yes the symptoms did point to a sticking exhaust valve cleaned all valves and reseated them put it all back together with new gaskets and bolts ran it and guess what!""" same problem. Fuel pressure is OK so pump must be OK fuel filter has also been changed and injectors checked I am getting a normal pulse showing on the scope for each injector, but the engine is over fueling splutters and dies at around operating temp when it is flooded. My thoughts now are the GEMS ECU is not functioning properly when driving the injectors | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 164 Registered: 01-2003 |
Well I am running again. The problem was solved by first reading the fuel pressure. The shop guy noticed I had low fuel pressure especially when the truck was at operating temp. So he pulled my fuel filter, which was a week old, and found it clogged up. He pulled the fuel pump and replaced it because the tank was full of crap. Our guess was it was from fuel residue build up over the years. My truck sat for 1.5 years before I got it. it was impounded from some kind of repo - divource mess, so I'm sure shit had built up. Interesting it took 2.5 years to show up. After $370 at the shop he did the following, Fuel pump, flushed and cleaned the gas tank, replaced fuel filter, flushed fuel lines, bench cleaned and tested injectors (all were still good), replaced spark plugs (old ones got carbon fowled), reset the computer. Truck is fine, but I'll repost if a problem comes up I still don't trust it yet. What I learned; get a fuel pressure gauge, I could have avoided the sensors had I had one. Change the plugs even if they are new, once they carbon foul, unless you can get the truck to run hot for a while they won't clean themselves. Sensors are cheap, but probably are not your problem if the ecu isn't throwing a code. Finally buy a Honda civic, sure its boring but my blood pressure wouldn't have been so high over these stupid problems. By the way I have the OBD-1 3.9l v8i with the MPI system. Jared, Marlin, Paul, I'd try changing plugs, it a cheap part and you can always keep the other ones for spares later. If they are carbon fouled, black, sooty, wet from gas they will not work right till they are clean. You can scrub them clean with a hard brisle tooth brush and a little gas, but the best way is to get new ones. If the ignition system is not running well then you won't be able to figure out if the fuel system is bad or any other part of the ignition system. Our trucks will show an error code if one of the sensors are bad, not things like the fuel pump or plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Also look at any part that is temp related, coils can go bad, the problem shows up when they are hot and they expand. Do you guys have a dealer service manual, if you don't send me an email and I can help you out, it is for 94-99 discovery ones, but might have some info rrc motors you could use. Good luck guys. | ||
| marc olivares (Pugs) Member Username: Pugs Post Number: 60 Registered: 12-2002 |
Hey andy, glad to see that you're back in action! got another moab trip planned for the 3rd thru the 5th (may). you in? running golden spike, camping on trail. marc |
