Author |
Message |
   
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d
Post Number: 605 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 09:47 am: |
|
What thickness do you have? And I only want to know if you actually have used them, i.e. no posers please. Also any preference for galv / SS? Thanks Dean |
   
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member Username: Paulschram
Post Number: 1262 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 10:03 am: |
|
Dean: I used stainless for the Bling factor, and I believe the diameter was 1/8" (might be 3/16"). I picked the size by availability and aethetics, rather than a perceived need for robustness. If something hits hard enough to break the limb riser, better the riser than the windscreen. And, for those who decry the need for them, in Indiana and Michigan, they are not discretionary, but mandatory. |
   
Corey Shuman (One_bad_rover)
Member Username: One_bad_rover
Post Number: 95 Registered: 09-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 10:05 am: |
|
hey!! I have an ARB bullbar and Im wondering how you go about getting the risers and how they install?? Thanks!!!! |
   
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Senior Member Username: Leslie
Post Number: 2007 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 10:17 am: |
|
Corey, You make them. Go to Tractor Supply or Lowes, buy steel cable (sheathed is nice). Get a couple of tensioners and some eyelets. If you don't want to drill, get some pipe clamps. Get creative, they're rather simple to do. -L
|
   
Reed Cotton (Reedcotton)
Member Username: Reedcotton
Post Number: 66 Registered: 01-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 06:31 pm: |
|
You may also want try a Marine Chandlery such as West Marine. The wire rope is possibly more expensive, but they have some of the coolest fittings. Plus if you ask nice, and buy the stuff from them, they may let you use their swagging tool. -Reed |
   
James (Jimmyg)
Member Username: Jimmyg
Post Number: 219 Registered: 10-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 06:44 pm: |
|
They are really easy to make. Tractor supply has all you need. I just drilled a small hole in the roofrack and stuck an eyelet in it. Used a pipe clamp to attach to the bull bar(this may change because it's the only piece that I think could be done better), a short strong spring and a tensioner. I used a fairly thick cable coated with clear nylon/rubber/plastic. |
   
Jason T. Barker (Speedminded)
Member Username: Speedminded
Post Number: 198 Registered: 10-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 09:55 pm: |
|
The first hit after typing in "Limb Riser" in Search was... http://www.discoweb.org/limb It doesn't state the size exactly but does tell the type which is the same on just about all dog runners. 3/8" cable is much too thick and 1/8" would be too thin, 1/4" is probably your best bet. But what do I know, I'm just a poseur without them. There used to be a link on Discoweb to some really nice clamps that mounted to the factory brush guard but I can't find it anymore.
|
   
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d
Post Number: 606 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 10:08 pm: |
|
OK thanks everyone. I saw that post Jason, but the (unknown) author didn't say what thickness he had, just that it was too thin! Oh well, I already got some black plastic coated 1/4" galv cable, just wanted to make sure, because the ones on the photos here on DWeb look thicker than that. Maybe its just how it looks. I welded tabs onto the brush bar already. My only last concern is that they look like they will hit the outside hellas (4000s) at the corner of the roof rack, so I might have to bring it back or out a little. Anyone else do that? Dean
|
   
Paul D. Morgan (V22guy)
Senior Member Username: V22guy
Post Number: 1408 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 06:32 am: |
|
Dean, You got mail. |
   
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Senior Member Username: Leslie
Post Number: 2015 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 08:37 am: |
|
Dean, I've seen a lot of them that run to the bottom of the rack, which leads branches right into the lights mounted at the front of the rack; they really need to go to the top bar of the rack to help protect the lights. If they're to the outside of the light it should be okay, but, since you're running the bigger 4000s up there, they may stick out further than 500s would have, so there may be some bit of trouble with that; however, the extra light from the 4000s would be worth the upgrade from the 500s, so.... just drive slow enough so you won't kill them, regardless.... IMHO, FWIW... -L
|
   
Jack Quinlan (Jsq)
Member Username: Jsq
Post Number: 213 Registered: 10-2002
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 01:11 pm: |
|
I have the same problem with 4000s sticking up too far. I don't run limb risers most of the time, because i'm usually in the desert, but i like to have the option for heavily wooded areas. John at RTE put tabs on my bumper for me, but I realized that the cables could only be attached to the roof rack below the top of the lights. I'm thinking about this: http://www.trekoutfitters.com/extra/rraccess/lightbar.htm It's not a very good deal but it certainly protects the lights. Maybe I should just have one welded up for me. Anyone bought the TO or built something like this? |
   
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d
Post Number: 609 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 01:30 pm: |
|
Jack - that light bar is what I was thinking of making, thanks a lot! My lights keep getting knocked about, so it might be an idea, could pay for itself through light-cover costs in the long run! Leslie - Yeah I could run it to the bottom of the roof rack but from the photos I've seen on DWeb they mostly go up top, and it looks much better that way too. Dean |