| Author | Message | ||
     Corey Shuman (One_bad_rover) Member Username: One_bad_rover Post Number: 97 Registered: 09-2002 |
So it appears tha I have to change out my waterpump (D1-4.0) The dealer said it was extremely difficult and that I should have them do it. However to me it looks rather straitforward, I have swapped water pumps on other bimmers and old chevy 350s yet I am still a little hesitant. Any one done this or have any advice?? Thanks in advance!! | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) Senior Member Username: Jason Post Number: 452 Registered: 04-2002 |
It's true. It's extremely difficult for dealerships who employ ham-fisted backyard hacks to work on your Rover. Do it yourself, save some money. It's not difficult; at most, just tedious. | ||
| Dean Chrismon (Chrismonda) Member Username: Chrismonda Post Number: 95 Registered: 12-2002 |
Hey Corey the set up is about the same as any other V-8. Just undo the serpentine belt, and the water pump is right there in the middle of the engine. A friend and I did it in about an hour. | ||
| Corey Shuman (One_bad_rover) Member Username: One_bad_rover Post Number: 99 Registered: 09-2002 |
Sweet, thanks for the insight, Maybe I'll even take some pics of it!•••••• particular antifreeze suggested?? | ||
| Rob Caulfield (Wrldky) New Member Username: Wrldky Post Number: 27 Registered: 02-2003 |
Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain engine coolant. Remove cooling fan and viscous coupling assembly. Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Remove water pump drive belt. Remove water pump pulley. Disconnect inlet hose from water pump. Remove water pump and gasket. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specification. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1266 Registered: 02-2002 |
Corey: Consistently, the hardest part for me is removing the old gasket. That and getting the serpentine belt on correctly-I really am going to have it tattooed on my forearm! Some will caution you that the bolts are of different lengths and you should be careful on disassembly to get them back where they belong, but I have found that being fairly observant reduces this risk greatly. BTW-it's easier than doing the SBC. Peace, Paul | ||
| Chuck McGovern (Chuckster) New Member Username: Chuckster Post Number: 39 Registered: 09-2002 |
Corey, Everyone here is right - you can do it yourself and save yourself some serious cash. I did mine, not in an hour, but fairly easily. It helps that I'm a plumber, but I still think nearly anyone can do it. I'll tell you what I know... Before you start, draw a good picture of the belt routing so you won't be confused when the time comes to re-install it. Throw a socket and wrench on the tensioner pully nut and use it as a handle to push down and release the tension on the belt (not to remove the pully nut). The only difficulty I had was getting the viscous coupling off - you need two large, narrow open-end wrenches (anyone remember the sizes? I forget). The trouble comes when you're trying to hold back with one and spin the nut off with the other. Here's what I did: - put one wrench on the VC nut - put the other wrench on the spindle nut - put a socket and extention on the tensioner nut as a brace for the wrench handle - whack the hell out of the VC nut wrench til it spins free... I really hope that makes sense! You'll see what I mean when you start... Also, Paul is right - keep track of the bolts. I traced the new pump on the cardboard box, and punched holes where the bolts go, and just inserted them into the box as I removed them from the truck. As for the gasket, its a PIA, no two ways about it. Use a little window scraper razor blade and make sure you get ALL of the old one off. When you install the new one, make sure all surfaces are clean and dry. Install your bolts and torque them evenly, in a star-pattern. When you're done, fill it up and squeeze the hoses to work out the air. You may hear some gurgling for day or so, just keep checking your fluid level for a few days until all of the air bubbles have worked themselves out of the system. Oh yeah, be very careful with spilled/discarded antifreeze... it kills kitties and pups and we wouldn't want that to happen... Happy Truck Plumbing! Email me offline if you run into any trouble. And save your core! Rebuild it... Chuckster | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1268 Registered: 02-2002 |
I use a 1-7/16" wrench for the vicious coupling. Serpentine belt, counter-clockwise to remove. Multi-V belts, clockwise to remove, and the wrench is smaller, use a big crescent. Just put the wrench on and give it a whack, once you break it loose, it is easy. Use some Anti-Seize on reassembly and it will come apart easily the next time. Yes, I know, the 1-7/16" really isn't the right size, but it's darned close! | ||
| Reed Cotton (Reedcotton) Member Username: Reedcotton Post Number: 65 Registered: 01-2003 |
Just got through replacing my water pump the other day. Corey's steps are correct, th4e only missing step is to remove the top fan shroud. (Real easy, two snap clips like the air box.) It took me two days, but most of that time was removing the old gasket. If that had come off clean, the total time would have been a little over an hour. I got the viscous coupling nut off with a "monkey" wrench from an old brit tool kit. It was narrow enough to fit and the jaws were parallel (Not like a plumbing wrench). Remembered to turn it counter-clockwise looking from the front. Antifreeze was just Prestone yellow mixed 50/50. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1272 Registered: 02-2002 |
One of the automotive chemical companies makes a chemical gasket removing compound similar to zip-strip in a spray can. It works great, but kills brain cells (the active ingredient is strongly frowned upon in industry) and will strip paint. But, it takes gaskets off like nobody's business. Comes in a green and yellow can. Use adequate ventilation. Of course, a soft brass brush in a dremel tool works great too, just don't gouge the mating surface. I use High-Tack to hold the gaskets in place and to seal, it works well too. PEace, Paul | ||
| Reed Cotton (Reedcotton) Member Username: Reedcotton Post Number: 67 Registered: 01-2003 |
Paul- I second the gasket remover suggestion. I finally got down the mountain to a parts store, and bought some Permatex Gasket Remover. Probably the same active ingedient. I won't attempt to spell it correctly here, but it is the same chemical that is used in most paint strippers, like Jasco. Worked pretty good, but be careful where you spray it. (If you are really cheap, you could probably buy a small can of paint stripper for less than what the "Automotive" spray can would cost. BTW- When using the Jasco to strip paint once, I was using ordinary rubber gloves. Either the stripper or the fumes penetrated and really did a job on the skin on my hands. I found it was better to work bare handed, with a ready suppy of running water to wash if I got it on my hands. The soft brush trick was the first thing I tried, barely made a dent in the gasket. High-Tack works, I prefer the Hylomar... Just don't make it permanent. <g> -Reed | ||
| Jeffrey Pinson (Jeffro0502) New Member Username: Jeffro0502 Post Number: 23 Registered: 02-2003 |
Atlantic British has a good diagram for the belt under their tech tips section |
