| Author | Message | ||
     R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 478 Registered: 07-2002 |
Can the high pressure oil lines be fixed, or just replaced? It's the one that comes around the passenger side front then to the bottom and connects to the very bottom of the front of the engine block. http://landrover.mrbaileyshistory.net | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1267 Registered: 02-2002 |
R. B.: If you cut the crimped sleeve off of the line, you'll find a hose barb beneath. You can cut the rubberline off and rpelace with new, usinghose clamps to retain the rubber hose. The pressures will not exceed 100 psi in your wildest dreams and the clamps will hold just fine. If you are really into making it robust, you could cut the barbs off and use compression fittings to hose barbs, or even to crimped high pressure lines (stainless? Bling, Bling), and then use flared fittings or AN fittings. The possibilities are endless (OK, almost). Peace, Paul | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 97 Registered: 11-2002 |
Hi Paul, do you happen to know the ID of these hoses on a 1996 Disco? I need to do this repair, very timely advice - thank you. joe | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1269 Registered: 02-2002 |
Joe: I believe they are 1/2" OD, but use an end wrench, the one that fits the closest, go buy a hunk of tubing, slit it down the side and confirm, but you should be close. Make sure you get a tubing that is compatible with engine oil. The Gates LOLA+ seems to be a good universal replacement hose for lube oil and •••••• fluid, and even the low pressure return and supply lines for power steering fluid. The cutting of the crimp sleeve (I need Bettridge to tell me the correct nomenclature!) works for fuel filters also when they have seized up! Peace, Paul | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 98 Registered: 11-2002 |
Great, thanks Paul.  I'll try and do this this weekend, if I do I'll post back on the actual ID of the hose. I only took a cursory look at it, what did you cut the crimp sleeve with? joe | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1271 Registered: 02-2002 |
Angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. | ||
| J E Robison Service Co (Robisonservice) Member Username: Robisonservice Post Number: 61 Registered: 10-2002 |
I agree with Paul that his method works but I would not advise you to do the repair in this fashion because the chance of your making a mistake that will lead to the line blowing off is a lot higher than the chance of a factory line having the same failure. Factory lines are inexpensive, and if a trans cooler or engine cooler line blows off you arelikely to have a failed engine or transmission to show for it. I would not hestiate to advocate making low pressure steering lines becuase the consequence of failure is small. Be careful. | ||
| R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 479 Registered: 07-2002 |
Ya, I am thinking that I will buy a new line. I don't have the time or tools to do the repairs - I would probably run over the cost of the new line just trying to do the fix myself. Remember, I'm the guy that takes 2 hours to do one spring and shock! Thanks for the advice though. I probably wil do it myself with the lower pressure lines. http://landrover.mrbaileyshistory.net | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 294 Registered: 04-2002 |
Just got a call from the dealer. My oil cooler line/s are in the beginning stages of a leak (can there be a beginning stage with LR?). They quoted me $225 for the part and $175ish for the labor. I've heard that replacing the oil cooler line/s is fairly easy. I've done the search but most results are vague. It looks easy. Has anyone attempted? 99D1 | ||
| R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 485 Registered: 07-2002 |
The actual lines are about $50-70 a piece. | ||
| Andrew Vick (Afv) New Member Username: Afv Post Number: 19 Registered: 02-2002 |
I got the oil cooler lines from Nathan about 2 months ago, and the $50-$75 price is about right. It's literally a process of undoing the old and putting in the new, although it can get a little tight in the engine compartment. I just got the t-lines last week, so that's next. Mine have leaked for 2 years, and the thing that got me off my ass was those things catching fire and spreading from the front to the back, not good! | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1276 Registered: 02-2002 |
Andrew-care to send me your old lines? Paul | ||
| Andrew Vick (Afv) New Member Username: Afv Post Number: 20 Registered: 02-2002 |
Paul: Oil lines are already trashed, but I could send you the transmission lines when I finish that, if you want to pay for shipping. | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 302 Registered: 04-2002 |
Okay, just ordered the cooler lines and plan on doing them in the next day or so. I understand that it is/should be as simple as unscrew/replace/done. Is there anything that should be done to the fittings to keep from having leaks (don't laugh)? Anyone have any tips? Anything to avoid or look out for? Thanks | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 742 Registered: 02-2002 |
Make sure to replace the o-rings in the fittings also - you must purchase these seperately (unless Nathan supplies them) Bill | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1299 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jack, Andrew- Send me your old lines please. Lemme know what shipping costs and I'll take care of it. Thanks, Paul | ||
| Zach Jaggers (Mountenn) Member Username: Mountenn Post Number: 46 Registered: 03-2003 |
Anybody know where I can get cheaper cooler lines? The local dealership quoted me at $108 for one and $78 for the other...ouch. I've had some leaking lately, too, and want to fix it before it gets too bad. I'll be replacing both lines. Is this a fairly simple job? Best- Zach | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 303 Registered: 04-2002 |
AB was $79 and $59. Nathan would have been cheaper but was not in stock and I need them quickly. Nathan still whips everbody on price. With the exception of the O-rings, should I apply any type of tape, dope, etc...? | ||
| Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 46 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi When changing lines from the oil cooler, be aware a lot of oil will still be held inside and this will come out, have something ready to catch it. Also make sure you recover the old O rings as you do not want to put two in as oil will seep past them. Best of luck Pete S. | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 304 Registered: 04-2002 |
Another question: I've read that these lines/connections should be torqued to 30nm. Can I simply hand/wrench tighten or do I need a torque wrench? Sorry for all of the questions. I just want to do it right. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 745 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jack - use NO thread sealant at all - the seal is made with the o-ring - not the threads. At the most apply a little anti-seize to make it easier to remove in future. Make sure not to get any in the ports. Don't worry to much about torque spec. As the seal is made on the o-ring, the fitting will stop at a certain tightness (as the two surfaces contact), so just snug it up after that, but don't go crazy on it. Bill | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 305 Registered: 04-2002 |
Thanks Bill, Peter, Andrew, and Paul. Paul, I'm going to hang on to mine as I want to get "better" ones fabricated and would need an easy model of how and how not to make them. After that, I'll send if in need. thanks! | ||
| Bruce Potier (Bruce_flrc) New Member Username: Bruce_flrc Post Number: 20 Registered: 02-2003 |
Another suggestion is if you have a local vendor who assembles hose, give them a call and ask if they can refit with compression fittings. I had 2 •••••• lines done, 2-hours for $40. Beats the heck out of new line costs, loads easier to reinstall. Since you are taking the old lines off, might as well save the $$ if you can versus buying new. Those damn rubber O-rings, dealer hit me for $5 each! I should have asked the hose-shop, but forgot. Like others, if buying new, go to Nathan. Good luck, Bruce |
