| Author | Message | ||
     John Smith (Gyb2000) New Member Username: Gyb2000 Post Number: 1 Registered: 03-2003 |
Can someone give me a step-by-step procedure in replacing the tie rod ends of a Disco? I need to do it this weekend - the rubber seals are splitted and are making clanking noise. Any pictures will be helpful also. Thanks. Michael | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 664 Registered: 09-2002 |
to start with, try removing one from the drag link. just for shits and giggles. I was unable to do it on my '96 so far, regardless of the amounts of WD40 or smoke wrench. peter | ||
| Brian Newport (Briann) New Member Username: Briann Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2003 |
Yeah if you're going to do it, save yourself alot of hastle and when you order the tie rods also order a new drag link and track rod. I also coudn't get one of the tie rods off of the front bar and ended up twisting it all to hell. Had to order a new one and ended up with 5 days of down time on the Rover. Good luck. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1361 Registered: 02-2002 |
I too have had similar experiences, but I have also successfully removed the tie rod ends. In one case, I broke a tie rod in the cross tube! To remove, use a pickle fork to remove the old ones. Often-times, the pickle fork tears the boot, but you don't care as yours are worn anyway. With old tie rod ends, I have found the two-hammer method to be ineffective although it works with new TRE. When you have tube free of the truck, soak the tie rod ends in penetrant, use more! Remove the clamp and set aside for later reuse. Grab the tie rod with a pipe wrench and grip the tie rod with whatever gripping tool you think would work best-I usually use another pipe wrench. Using superhuman strength, remove the tie rod end, counting the number of turns to remove it. Keep in mind that on the cross tube (the front one) one of the ends will be left-hand thread and the other right hand thread-turn appropriately. Insert the new ends the same number of turns as required to remove. This will get your alignment in the ballpark. Upon reinstallation, sometimes, the stud is too long and you cannot get the nut tightened before the taper engages. I place a nut removed from the original tie rod end over the stud and tighten against it to engage the taper, then remove the nut and tighten to final torque. Reinstall the clamps loosely. To set the toe, use the rear tie rod (track rod in LR nomencalture). To center the steering wheel horizontal with wheels straight, adjust the cross tube (the one in front). Land Rover provies numerical dimensions to set the rod lengths, but I find they never line up right, regardless of how carefully I measure. The left-hand thread tie rod end is LR P/N RTC 5870. The right-hand thread LR P/N is RTC 5869. Peace, Paul | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 761 Registered: 02-2002 |
One thing to add: Use LOTS and LOTS of anti-seize on the threads of the new ends and throw a bit inside the track rod and crosslink to for good measure. This will let you adjust easily now and forever! Also - to realign - the toe out spec is 1/8" - I find it much easier to reset the toe than to try to mess around with counting threads, measuring, etc. So - that was two things to add  Bill | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 670 Registered: 09-2002 |
Paul Schram, BME, it does not take superhuman strength to FUBAR the tie rod. peter | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1364 Registered: 02-2002 |
Peter: I'm still trying to figure out how I broke the stud of the tie rod end. In doing this, I broke a vise (yes, broke a vise!), and pulled the bolts from the bench on another! Finally, used my old flatbed truck as a stationary object. When the stud broke loose, I thought I was going to lose a few teeth, both testes and most of the skin from my left hand! I didn't realize the stud had broken until the stars in my head stopped spinning! I wouldn't have FUBARd the tie rod if it hadn't been for the altered state of consciousness after breaking the tie rod end. Bill-You're right, it is often easier to put the tie rod ends in about the center of their adjustment range, assemble, and adjust to desired specs. Peace, Paul |
